Standing vs regular collar

Discussion in 'General Flight Jacket Discussion' started by tjoenn, Feb 23, 2018.

  1. tjoenn

    tjoenn Active Member

    Messages:
    74
    Location:
    Norway
    Hi, probably a stupid question and I could probably find out if I took the time to look more closely at my jackets, but what's the basic difference in construction between a regular and standing collar?
     
  2. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,160
    Location:
    Great Southern Land
    Hi Tjoenn,

    Im sure there are others who have a more detailed understanding but I was always led to understand that a collar stand was exactly that, to help the leather collar stand upright. Where the collar joins the body there is a strip of extra leather and stitching that goes around the circumference of the collar, stiffening it in a sense from sagging. You can see the stitching in a thin band on the inside lining of the jacket around the collar in this 1402-P Werber. The stitching is also visible on the outside of the collar where it joins the body. From experience it helps to keep the collar more upright, but can also be stiff.

    DSC_0246.jpg
     
  3. tjoenn

    tjoenn Active Member

    Messages:
    74
    Location:
    Norway
    Thanks Matt! I'll have to take a look at my two A-2s, Eastman Roughwear (standing) and Cable Raincoat (regular). Now I know what to look for.
     
  4. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,172
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Some say the A-2s with a collar stand are less comfortable at the neck. I once had an ELC that pushed up but I figured it was the stiffness of the hide. My current A-2 has a collar stand and I have no such problem.
    Dave
     
  5. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,160
    Location:
    Great Southern Land
    I think the comfort factor depends a lot on the collar hole itself, some makers like Werber made smaller collar holes than say a Dubow, I'd be lucky to be able to get the collar hook to connect in my 33 Werber. And yes the leather itself has a lot to do with it. Stands seem to me more for ceremonial reasons rather than practical as maybe they felt the collar stand would act like a shirt collar and be more prominent, giving a sharper ceremonial look. I have an Aero 18775 and while it sits ok when down, it doesn't sit to well when up, whereas my Werbers sit well in both situations, but then that also depends on the thickness and quality of the leather.

    I tried to get this shot yesterday but ran out of time, heres the look from the leather side, you can see the double stitching at the collar bar as they have aded the strip of leather which is the stand.

    DSC_0353.JPG
     
    Steve27752 likes this.
  6. 2BM2K

    2BM2K Active Member

    Messages:
    245
    Location:
    Sussex
    The collar stand does have a practical use.

    collar_stand.jpg
     
    Art and Skip like this.
  7. Silver Surfer

    Silver Surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,336
    in the beginning.......all of the original early contract a-2s had collar stands. the collar stand was a carry over from button up shirting of the 1920s-30s. and yes, the collar stand made for a more "upright" look, and because of the added height, it would cover the shirt worn under the a-2, thus making a neat look. by 1941, aero, dubow, and later contractors were doing away with collar stands, as a way to expediate manufacturing process, and save on leather. interestingly, rough wear, and perry continued to make their a-2s with collar stands, while all other makers made their jackets without them. a little unspoken variation in "regular" [non collar stand] collars is that some makers made their collars very even as seen front to back, side to side, while other makers made their collars slope down in the front, to improve comfort.
     
    Skip and Roughwear like this.
  8. Roughwear

    Roughwear Well-Known Member

    This is an excellent explanation Vic. The only other contractors in addition to RW and Perry using collar stands were Fried Ostermann and Cooper, who had a December 1941 and January 1942 contract respectively.
     
    Skip likes this.
  9. Silver Surfer

    Silver Surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,336
    oops, forgot them. old timers disease.
     
  10. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,172
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Yeah, I have 40's shirt patterns with "removable" button- on collars. They all have the option of an attached collar but I would thing a button on collar would be quite a bit more upright.
    Does anyone else find flipping up the collar useful? I wear a hoodie under my A-2 on cold days(allows one jacket all year!) but I do occasionally pop the collar up on windy days.

    Dave
     
    Skip likes this.
  11. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,160
    Location:
    Great Southern Land
    Like you Dave, collar up for me on windy cool days and if driving in cooler weather
     
  12. Silver Surfer

    Silver Surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,336
    collar up, always. a habit formed by wearing originals and not wanting to put more wear on the collar fold.
     
    Miles and Skip like this.
  13. EmergencyIan

    EmergencyIan Active Member

    I find putting the collar up very useful in fowl weather. I’d never lift the collar up as a fashion statement. Don’t find anything wrong doing that, I just wouldn’t feel comfortable doing so.

    As far as A-2’s go, I prefer a collar stand. In my opinion, the collar looks better with one installed.

    - Ian
     
    Miles and Skip like this.
  14. Miles

    Miles Active Member

    Messages:
    109
    I assume that’s the same for shearling with the M patterns on the entire back of the Collar. I really appreciate my LW ANJ4 stitching on the collar. It’s tightly woven parallel stitches help the collar roll back and lay down while the M pattern above makes it stand where I want. It’s a huge collar on the LW so fortunately you can kind of “half pop it” where it’s not totally upright but not laying down. LW really has this dialed in.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Skip likes this.
  15. johnwayne

    johnwayne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,237
    Personally I've only had one collar stand A2 but prefer without, that's not to say I wouldn't want one, it's about as discussed many times, the fit, the feel and everything else we all love about this iconic garment!
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2018

Share This Page