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Sizing conundrum

cgreen

Active Member
Hi Everyone,

Hope you're all looking at a good weekend. So based on the number of posts I read here wherein someone is lamenting the fact that a new stock or custom jacket doesn't fit, I can't be alone in the sizing conundrum - but for the life of me I can't figure it out.

I'm a 38 chest, approximately 19 across the shoulders, with about a 24-25 inch sleeve. I'm slender at 5'11" and 150 lbs.

How is that one manufacturer's 38 is actually a 40, maybe even a 42, whereas another's is closer to the actual 38, but the shoulders are wrong? Some men's 34s have 37-inch chests but 16-in shoulders.

As well, I've been to three tailors in the last week and have gotten three different answers as to how to measure - one said the shoulder dimension is absolutely irrelevant, another said the front drop doesn't matter, another said you always fit the shoulders first because you can't alter the shoulders in outerwear, while I've also been told that the chest measurement is positively the first thing.

I'm losing my mind, just a little bit.

Is there an agreed upon ratio of shoulder to chest that we should all be starting with as a base and working from there?

Looking to commiserate with anyone who wants, thank you.

Chris
 

JonnyCrow

Well-Known Member
Hi Everyone,

Hope you're all looking at a good weekend. So based on the number of posts I read here wherein someone is lamenting the fact that a new stock or custom jacket doesn't fit, I can't be alone in the sizing conundrum - but for the life of me I can't figure it out.

I'm a 38 chest, approximately 19 across the shoulders, with about a 24-25 inch sleeve. I'm slender at 5'11" and 150 lbs.

How is that one manufacturer's 38 is actually a 40, maybe even a 42, whereas another's is closer to the actual 38, but the shoulders are wrong? Some men's 34s have 37-inch chests but 16-in shoulders.

As well, I've been to three tailors in the last week and have gotten three different answers as to how to measure - one said the shoulder dimension is absolutely irrelevant, another said the front drop doesn't matter, another said you always fit the shoulders first because you can't alter the shoulders in outerwear, while I've also been told that the chest measurement is positively the first thing.

I'm losing my mind, just a little bit.

Is there an agreed upon ratio of shoulder to chest that we should all be starting with as a base and working from there?

Looking to commiserate with anyone who wants, thank you.

Chris
Chris, I have 2 spiewak b10, one is a 38 fits me good and I'm a 40 the other 40 but fits like a 42 long or regular my vintage buzz rickson candy Cane b15 is marked 38 yet fits me perfect I know about cutting on the bias as my aunt was a lifelong seamstress, as for a lot of Japanese made jackets, they don't have orangutan arms haha
 
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