Pre-war Irvin-D1 hybrid

[crsnmorton]

I recently acquired a jacket that is a real curiosity. I bought it off ebay from an outfit in Thailand who thought it might have been an RAF Irvin Jacket from WWII that had been converted into a D1 jacket for the USAAF in the 50's (a Dirvin?). Or maybe re-purposed as a civvy jacket. As soon as I unboxed the beast it was clear that it had indeed once been an Irvin and the one piece front panels and long length pegged it as a pre-war jacket. The still wonderful surface (very supple) and short nubby golden honey fleece supported this. It is also a large size, easily a modern 44 (6 in Irvin sizes?) which as you know is pretty rare in itself. If this jacket had been untouched and original, it would be worth $1,500 to $2,000. I paid with shipping about $290.

Now for the modifications: the collar has been cut back a little, maybe by an inch and then properly finished. The belt has been removed. Presumably frayed sleeve ends have been refinished with a different color/quality fleece. B3 style pockets have been added to the outside. An abomination you say, but wait. In truth, in the attempt to turn this jacket into a D1, its functionality has actually been improved. Original collars (though beautiful of line) can be a bit cumbersome. Some RAF pilots got into trouble for actually cutting off the entire collar (though I assume their punishment was tempered by how many Gerrys they had shot down.) Nobody likes those side-entry slash pockets but pockets are nice and B3 type exterior pockets at least fit in with the era.

Almost every repro Irvin I have ever tried suffered from either being too bulky, too tight in the shoulders, or not supple enough. The quality of the sheepskin on this jacket is amazing, short and stubby and with a classic honey color. The exterior finish is in remarkable shape and very supple. I am a guitar player and liken this jacket to a classic vintage guitar that has been heavily modified. A totally original 1954 Fender Stratocaster with honest wear is worth between $40,000 and $60,000. If it has been refinished and otherwise modified, the price drops to perhaps $8,000 to $12,000, though it still has the soul of a 54 Strat. This jacket is probably worth what I paid for it (though I suspect more), but it still has the soul of a pre-war Irvin.

 

[crsnmorton]

Oh, and the main zipper may have been replaced (thought it doesn't look like it). It is just stamped with "ZIP".

 

[Roughwear]

I'm afraid I'm the bearer of bad news! You jacket is a post War civi jacket. These utility jackets were made for private pilots and motorcyclists. All original Irvins had a vertical seam centrally down the back. Yours has a vinyl collar back which was typical of these post war jackets. They often appear on Ebay and sell for under £100 depending on condition. If you search the Vintage section you will see plenty of threads on original RAF Irvins to compare yours with.

 

[crsnmorton]

Andrew, I very much appreciate your information, it just looked so interesting. I couldn't resist checking it out. Still, for practicality, this does beat any repros I've owed over the years (even if it wouldn't pass muster at a re-enactment), and the sheepskin and finish is remarkable. And it's rare for any leather/sheepskin jacket with a military heritage (so to speak) to fit like a glove. It would seem that the quality of Irvin jackets deteriorated through the war years. I know the panels became smaller and one would assume that the quality of the sheepskin also went downhill. I'm curious if you have an opinion as to why this one, postwar as it appears to be, would have such large panels and such superb sheepskin? Thanks in advance.

 

[Roughwear]

It's interesting to hear what you say about the quality of later War Irvins declining. I have read this before, but having handled/owned many Irvins from 1932 to 1945 I know it is a generalisation. I have seen early War jackets made from poor quality fleece and later Wars one made from high quality sheepskin. Most multi-panelled later Irvins were made from recycled flying trousers and of course the quality of the fleece varied a lot. Without seeing your jacket in the flesh I can't objectively comment on the fleece. I'm glad it fits you well and that you are happy with it. Enjoy wearing it.

 

[crsnmorton]

Andrew, thanks again. Oh, and I do ride a motorcycle so hopefully this jacket is just the thing. Cheers, Carson

 

[asiamiles]

I remember buying one of these - though without pockets - from Camden Market for £55 back in the early 90's, and it was great for wearing at football matches in the middle of winter, the length actually making them better for general use than an original Irvin...and yes the quality of the sheepskin was good.

 

[crsnmorton]

Indeed, I have always collected the type of flying jacket that I can wear day to day. Every repro Irvin I've tried was impractical for this purpose for various reasons, usually it was too bulky (wool too thick) or too stiff (and, forgive me, no pockets). The What Price Glory Irvin was close but again, just a bit too bulky (and the collar massive). I did own an Avirex Cockpit Irvin in the 90's (with pockets, gulp). It was practical and comfortable but the finish was poor and quickly wore off. In truth, I have never owned a high-end Eastman or the like but paying $1200 for a jacket just wouldn't work for me. This jacket (except for its obvious lack of total authenticity) really ticks all the boxes for practicality and I can't emphasize how great the finish is. And the wool is thick enough to be warm but not so thick as to be considered bulky.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

It's a Pride & Clark

http://www.rockersbikeads.co.uk/Parts/S ... 1971-1.jpg

Bottom RH corner £10 in 1971, they were made from the 1950s onwards

That's about a third of the price of one of the jackets I was making in1971 would have cost, so, with inflation, a third of the price of an Aero today would be £250.........Great deal? I'd say yes.

 

[crsnmorton]

Ken, thanks for posting this. Absolutely fascinating. The interesting thing about this jacket is the wear pattern. The wear at the bottom folded back hem is classic with worn fur at the edge. At some point, someone must have decided that the wear on the sleeve ends was too much and unfolded the edge and cut the folded bit off. Then they cut a strip of sheepskin which unfortunately doesn't match original fur (it's too white) and folded it over the sleeve ends. It's a nice job and actually works to keep out air when riding on my scooter but I wish the color could have been matched better. Anyway, thanks again, Carson

 

[asiamiles]

At some point, someone must have decided that the wear on the sleeve ends was too much and unfolded the edge and cut the folded bit off. Then they cut a strip of sheepskin which unfortunately doesn't match original fur (it's too white) and folded it over the sleeve ends. It's a nice job and actually works to keep out air when riding on my scooter but I wish the color could have been matched better.

Even Irvins had mismatching fur...I think it adds character.

 

[m444uk]

Checking the BOE inflation calculator shows £10 in 1971 to be £124 today or £135 using this useful website

http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bill ... -1900.html