• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Homemade stencils

Cocker

Well-Known Member
Hello guys,

As discussed in the other topic, I thought I'd start another thread relatives to all stencil making questions.

I'm currently waiting for my Aero 42-18775-P to arrive, and am willing to make my own stencils to put my name on the lining. I'm also looking to make a couple stencils on my aviator kit bag repro, including a squadron logo.

Seen some of you are doing their own stencils, what are your tips for them? How do you print, cut, apply them and worn the finish off?

Moreover, does any of you have a link to somewhere I could get some custom 1" marsh stencils done?
 

ties70

Well-Known Member
Cocker,

there is no rocket science involved, and you don't need a Marsh stencil machine, either.

What I use is:

- 160g/m² printing paper
- laser printer
- scalpel and / or Xacto blades
- http://www.fonts2u.com

You can find thousands of free fonts there. My WWII standards for everything stencilled are PHANTOM STENCIL and ARMY. Helpful for USAF stuff can be AIRBORNE...

Download these fonts and install them, so they should automatically appear in your WORD and POWERPOINT dropdown menus.

I print my stencils out and cut them by hand.
It's a little work, but you do not have to be too accurate. I sometimes deliberately cut them sloppy with crooked lines and round edges....you can achieve a kind of worn off look right from the start.

Use a larger brush like or a special stencil brush like this one http://www.modulor.de/en/da-vinci-stenc ... round.html , dip it into the paint and rub the paint lightly in a soft cloth. Now stencil your name with only minimal paint, using the the cloth as your stamp pad.

If you stencil your name inside the lining and wear the jacket regularly, the stencil should be looking authentic in no time.

Ties
 

Cocker

Well-Known Member
Again, thank you, Ties!

Do you use the same process for stenciling designs, such as on your barrack bags and so on? I was afraid 160g paper will be too thin and the ink would go through, but I guess it's more of a dry brushing than plain paiting.

Already ordered some Marsh stencil ink from Mash in Japan, and have put your link in my favourites in case I'd need colors.
 

stevetfire

Member
here's one i did for a (cheap)t-shirt ,i use a clear printable acetate and just print the image straight on to the acetate from google images etc , the acetate is ideal if you want to save it for other work as it just wipes clean,..when you have your image you then just cut out the relevant parts , i have used a sponge to apply the paint\fabric colour dye ....there are a few ways to go about it as Ties has also shown , i was also inspired by Ties great work......go for it ,its quit satisfying
[URL=http://s812.photobucket.com/us...com/albums/zz43/stevetfire/IMG_4321.jpg[/img]/url]
[/url[URL=http://s812.photobucket.c...com/albums/zz43/stevetfire/IMG_4320.jpg[/img]
 

a2jacketpatches

Active Member
I'm in with all of the above. Just wanted to show another option and bring up an Exacto blade point. The No. 11 blade is not a good choice so don't let them sell you on the fine point being good for detail. It will break off right away and leave you a machete tip. Not sure of the MFG. number but the one photographed is as sharp but blunt enough to remain intact. A sharpening stone will save a bundle in the long run as these blades in particular sharpen easily. The one you see in the photo is probably 6 months old. Hold your knife vertical as possible when cutting. Also helps very much to use a low tack spray adhesive to tack the paper reference to the stencil material then simply wet and it will remove easily.

Also photographed is an Air Nouveau Stencil Burner, About 25 bucks but it slices through acetate and similar plastics like it's butter. The tips are a little pricey to replace and the factory ones are prone to bending being so thin. I make my own heavy duty tips that last for months with the appropriate brass screw that threads into the tool and I turn it in my drement using a file and emery paper to taper and finish.

So if just doing one quick job, the Exacto method is the way to go. If you might do more than a few things, it's worth the trouble getting the burner.

 

Cocker

Well-Known Member
Good tip on the blades! I still have a batch of #11 available, so I'll finish those off before going to the one you show (which seems to be a #16 as from what I've found).
 
Top