Help/questions with EASTMAN A-2 repro's, buying 1 new

[cmjordan77]

Hi guys,
I know some of you all but definately not all.
I was trying to buy a USED EASTMAN. But now I am going to get 1 custom designed for me and buy a NEW Eastman. I want some help and some opinions.
I am trying to find the best one that looks the best and fits the best. I had 1 previously that was a ROUGHWEAR 1401, but it didnt fit me nicely.
I am trying to figure out which one to get for myself. I wanted to see if I can get some opinions of all the Eastman models that you Own and what you all think about them.
I am looking at 2 models that I think look pretty good, but I am not 100% set on either one of these.
1 I was looking at was a MONARCH 352nd FTR Group Contract 23378. I like the color and syle of this one, I also like the inside 'war contract' pockets.
I thought the STAR Sportswear Intermediate, and of course the Roughwear 1401 (I am beginning to be leary on this since I had the "fit" issue previously.

I know many folks do not like EASTMAN and prefer AERO and some other brand (I cant remember, but each Jacket is around $1K).
I would love to spend that much, but I have just enough for the prices of the EASTMAN.
Any thoughts on AERO or any other brand comparative to the Eastman?
That is in the $600-$750 price range.

Thank you ALL!
I really need your help and its greatly appreciated,

Sincerely
Chad

 

[havocpaul]

Hi Chad, I have over the years owned most of the Eastman A-2's and I think most here know I am a big fan of their jackets! What I would suggest over all other matters would be to ask Gary to advise you on what he recommends as the most suitable jacket for your needs. It will amount to whether you want a tighter fit (true wartime fitting) or have more room for layers, jackets such as the pre-war Werber are much more figure-hugging than say the Monarch; you mentioned the 352FG Monarch with the inside pockets, I found with mine that the pockets made the jacket appear baggier and that it took a little getting used to having the pockets there. I found the Star a nice jacket and the Cable is a naturally comfortable jacket because of the goatskin which always feels more flexible than horsehide. The Eastman 'house' A-2 is a good jacket in that it is a gerneric style suitable to most figures if the size is right. I hope to buy another Eastman A-2 this year and at present am leaning towards the Cable with the 'newer' goat hide and Kwik zipper but as is often with this obsession, I will no doubt change my mind a dozen times! Good luck with what you choose, remember to ask for advise as it is an expensive but rewarding purchase.

 

[cmjordan77]

I have been in touch with Gary about sizing. He told me to get a 48, with 1" Longer body, and 1/2" shorter on the Sleeves.
The problem is, I have emailed him asking about what I should look to get, and he never responded. The last time I asked this, he said to call him. I do not have access to INTL Calls. I am going to email him again today.
I want to stick with HORSEHIDE. I was wondering about the pockets being too bulky.
I like the snug fit, but I do not want it too snug. The other thing I HATE is jackets that are too short. The 46 1401 I had was too short on me. Thats why I had to sell it. I loved the jacket, and hated to sell it, but I couldnt wear it as it was just too darn short, and I pulled at it any time I wore it. I dont want it too tight, but yet, I do not want it bulky either. I have a photo of McCarther, in Korea. He had an A-2 on, and it was HUGE On him. It was funny looking. I can post the pic sometime, you all may get a snicker out of it.
But back to my sizing. I told Gary about my length problems and thats why he said to get 1" longer on the 48. I am excited about owning a new one. I had hoped to find a Used, but its still not happening so I buying new (unless a 48 HH comes available to me in the next week).

Any others?

Thanks

 

[havocpaul]

Gary seems to be at the premises on Tuesdays and Thursdays to answer calls etc, keep trying with the e-mail but their inbox does seem to get clogged-up from time-to-time, remember they are not a large concern. The A-2 is by its design a short jacket made 'worse' because we wear our pants/trousers/jeans lower than wartime fashion, as you have done, asking for extra length should work, that is the advantage of companies like eastman who offer a bespoke tailoring. I think McCarther's A-2 was a custom-made one like so many high-ranking officers although I may be wrong, he never had to wear it as a flight jacket though!

 

[Tim P]

Monarch MINUS inner pockets (canvas is way too stiff for practical purposes, however authentic) and Star are clear favourites with the monarch being most supple and the collar lies in such a way that snapped or unsnapped it sits the same. Roughwears are intrinsically uncomfortable, werbers too slender for comfort, what is the point of upsizing.....I find the cable a nice jacket too if goat is your thing at all..

 

[deeb7]

... that is the advantage of companies like eastman who offer a bespoke tailoring.

Is this something new from Eastman?

 

[watchmanjimg]

Monarch MINUS inner pockets (canvas is way too stiff for practical purposes, however authentic) and Star are clear favourites with the monarch being most supple and the collar lies in such a way that snapped or unsnapped it sits the same. Roughwears are intrinsically uncomfortable, werbers too slender for comfort, what is the point of upsizing.....I find the cable a nice jacket too if goat is your thing at all..

I've never tried the Monarch but I agree with Tim regarding the ELC Star. Here's a picture of one I had awhile back:

I was fairly satisfied with the fit of this size 42 example due to its apparent square shoulders as compared to the sloping design of the RW 1401 and "house" jackets I've owned in the past. If my budget limited me to ELC I would have no problem with the Star as to wearability, especially given the suppleness of its dark seal horsehide. I tried a Cable awhile back but it was one size too big, so it's hard to offer a fair assessment of its fit.

 

[Roughwear]

Like Paul I have owned/ own all the ELC original maker A2s. For your body shape I would recommend the Cable as it is a generous fit and the new goatskin is both authentic-looking and very comfortable.

 

[cmjordan77]

Hey guys,
The Cable is very nice. I like it, but the only thing is I was want to get a horse hide. I saw in ELC said it came in Horsehide and goat in the 1st paragraph. But then later it says it comes in GOAT. Do you think he would be able to get this made in HORSE HIDE?
If not, out of the Horsehides which is most recommended.
That Cable sure is nice though. I just wish it was in horse hide.
I want to try and stear clear of the ones that are way too dark like the AVIREX and COOPER Jackets. I had a COOPER Jacket that was Goat and it was so dark. I love the lighter brown look. I know I am probably on my own with that comment, but I like it. And what I mean by lighter is the Cable Color, the RoughWear 1401 color, etc... I dont know what you call it, but that is my favorite.
The Roughwear I bought kept for 1 month, wore inside 3 times in my home (purchased used), was very uncomfortable. I loved the look of the 1401, but it was again too short, and it was very, uncomfortable. I wonder though if I got the larger size, and the longer length, I wonder if it will make it alot more comfortable??

I am glad this website is here, I am glad there are others willing to help wtih this.
Thank you all!

Thanks

 

[Roughwear]

Gary only makes the Cable from goatskin. He used to make it from hh, but will not make it from hh now. Others have asked him and he only makes them according to the spec on the website. In this case the Monarch without pockets is very nice, but he only seems to do the special one with canvas pockets now. So perhaps you would be best to talk to Gary about a house jacket in hh.

 

[havocpaul]

... that is the advantage of companies like eastman who offer a bespoke tailoring.

Is this something new from Eastman?

No, they have always made a jacket to a customers' measurements if required rather than just sell a standard size jacket, that is bespoke tailoring as I understand it; so do Aero and GW and RMNZ. Buzz Rickson and some others don't.

 

[deeb7]

No, they have always made a jacket to a customers' measurements if required rather than just sell a standard size jacket, that is bespoke tailoring as I understand it; so do Aero and GW and RMNZ. Buzz Rickson and some others don't.

Oh okay, thanks ... made-to-measure.

 

[havocpaul]

That's it, "bespoke: made to a customers' specifications", same thing I think!

 

[deeb7]

That's it, "bespoke: made to a customers' specifications", same thing I think!

Bespoke is the service we'd like them to offer.

The distinguishing points of bespoke tailoring are the buyer's total control over the fabric used, the features and fit, and the way the garment should be made. More generally, bespoke describes a high degree of customisation, and involvement of the end-user, in the production of the good.

Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for the customer, and so differs from ready-to-wear, which is factory made in finished condition and standardized sizes, and from made-to-measure, produced to order from an adjusted block pattern.
Wikipedia

 

[havocpaul]

Well I think John Lever has pretty much done all that with his dealings with Aero(!), Eastman less so but Gary is quite flexible within the constraints of authenticity and particular contracts, that'll do for me.

 

[deeb7]

Well I think John Lever has pretty much done all that with his dealings with Aero(!), Eastman less so but Gary is quite flexible within the constraints of authenticity and particular contracts, that'll do for me.

Yes, Aero have made custom jackets for John ... other members have reported that Eastman no longer accept any custom work, and won't allow any changes other than lengths.

When you posted offer a bespoke tailoring, I was thinking along the lines of choice of zipper, un-distresses hides, maybe a Rough Wear B-10 with white mouton collar ....

 

[marco77]

RMNZ do it ....

 

[cmjordan77]

Can I ask why is the RM.. so high priced?
I have never held/wore one so maybe after I do that, I will change my tune. I read a few reviews and nothing seemed too "WOW", nice, but nothing crazy. I was just curious.
I am going to stick to an Eastman I guess, I was having a hard time parting with the money for a new 1 of these. I was wanting to buy a Used 1 like I did on the other jacket. But it didnt fit and thats the only reason I am looking to buy new so I can get it taylored to my size.

Any other thoughts on any of the EASTMAN Models?

Does everyone agree on the ROUGHWEAR Being uncomfortable? I still love the 1401, but I again I dont want it even if it fits if the jacket does not fit correctly and uncomfortable.
I guess I just need to make up my mind and drop the $$ down and get this thing rolling.
Any last thoughts?
Thanks guys!

 

[deeb7]

Can I ask why is the RM.. so high priced?

Pricing is in New Zealand Dollars, and it was increased last year, when the NZD dropped against most other major currencies. Since then, the currency has recovered, whilst other currencies, notably the Pound, have remained weak.

In this situation, UK makers Aero, and Eastman are good value ... RM will be better buying for you, if/when the USD strengthens. RM prices include shipping, and insurance.

 

[cmjordan77]

Hey guys,

Anyone have any thoughts on the WERBER?

I think I may have narrowed myself down to these 3.

1st - ROUGHWEAR 1401 Get the 48, extra 1" at the bottom
2nd - WERBER Contract 1729 size 48 xtra 1" at bottom
or 3rd - MONARCH 352nd Fighter Group jacket size 48 xtra 1" at the bottom.

I like the CABLE, but I want to stick with Horsehide.

I know i have harassed everyone enough about my decision, but this is alot of $$ for me, and I jsut want to make sure I get something I cherish, and that way, over the years, I can get others. But this will be my 1st official top of the line A-2 (for me that is).

Any thoughts?

Thanks to all!