ELC 55J14 - first foray into Navy jackets...

[pipvh]

This is my new (to me) ELC 55J14 G-1. It was a bit of an impulse purchase, but I also wanted to try out how these things fit and hey! it might have worked! To be fair, it almost does. Here are some pics:

It's a size 44, but as you can see it slips off my shoulders, the arms are too long and there's a lot of spare goatskin around the waist, torso and especially just below the collar. Which is a real shame as it's an exceptionally nice jacket: really lovely hide, great colour, feels really good on. I could hammer the pies and bitter to fill it out properly but I think this one's going back for sale.

Meanwhile I'd be more than happy to hear other peoples' comments about fit etc, as this is my first G-1 and I'm not entirely sure how they're meant to work...

Cheers,

Pip

 

[deeb7]

Apart from the long sleeves, it looks pretty close ... a 42 should do it.

The fit is much the same as other jackets. Compared to an A-2 it will sit a little longer, and have more movement in the shoulder, but all things being equal, the sizing will be the same.

So it's just down to what looks right, and is comfortable to you.

 

[bristolherc]

Get some wear into the sleeves, the wrinlkes should take up almost an inch of length, the jacket looks good otherwise.

Give it shit

Bevan.

 

[MikeyB-17]

Yeah I agree, looks OK to me-as Bevan says, with some wear the sleeves will wrinkle and ride up and not be so long. I've had close-fitting Navy jackets, and I've had them with a bit of room-give me the ones with a bit of room. Can't be doing with this 'military fit' stuff any more.

 

[pipvh]

Thanks for the feedback, chaps.

Yeah, I'm all for a bit of room, but although it looks like it fits quite well in the pictures, there's actually quite a lot less of me under the goatskin than there appears to be, and that's the problem. It is, though, an extremely nice jacket. I love the colour of the hide and the slightly contrasting stitching.

I think I'll go vintage next, unless someone out there has a size 42 ELC they want to be rid of? I'd love Jack Aranda's RMZ but it's out of my league, unfortunately.

 

[Persimmon]

I don't have any of this type of jacket but visually it looks good on you.
If it were mine and a A2 I would soak in hot water both sleeves in the shower for ten mins (not the body)
and mash it in my fingers.
Finally I would wear it for the next hour or so .
The longer the better.
We all crazy anyway so let them think you foolish (wife,friends children .....)
You will find the sleeves and your arms are warm for the first mins but it does get colder !!
Wear it and move you arms around and you will lose at least and inch with some great wrinkles and wear.

If you think the body is slightly to full soak all the jacket and you will reduce it in size all around
Best wishes

 

[pipvh]

We all crazy anyway so let them think you foolish (wife,friends children .....)

They've seen me wearing my Japanese jeans in the shower, so the cat's already out of the bag regarding my sartorial, shall we say, eccentricities!

 

[Grant]

I say go for an original. You should be able to find a decent sz. 42 on ebay for far less than what you'd pay for a repro and it'll look and fit much better than any repro.

 

[Peter Graham]

I say go for an original. You should be able to find a decent sz. 42 on ebay for far less than what you'd pay for a repro and it'll look and fit much better than any repro.

Agree. Original G-1's are easy to pick up although you might have to search a bit for a good size 42 55J14. There are a few lurking on the forum though....

 

[unclegrumpy]

Measurements for the size 42 M422-A Real McCoy are as follows:

Chest: 21.5"/54.5 cm

Shoulders: 18.5"/47 cm

Sleeves
Top of knits: 22.75"/57.5 cm
End of knits: 25.5"/65 cm

Length, back
Top of knits: 21/5"/56 cm
Base of knits: 25.5"/65.5 cm

I agree the sleeve length on your new Eastman looks a bit long, but they could always be shortened. I think the body fit in zipped up shot looks good, and the others are right that it will hang better once it gets broken in.

Above are the measurements for Jack Aranda's size 42 M422-A Real McCoy that you say would be a bit small for you in another thread. Why not post the measurements of your new size 44 Eastman with some comments on where exactly you think it is too big, and comment where the size 42 Real McCoy might be too small.

 

[pipvh]

Here goes with the measurements for my ELC G-1:

Chest: 65cm/25.5"
Shoulders: 55.5cm/22"
Arms to top of cuffs: 60cm/23.5"
Zipper: 60cm/23.5"
Length: 66cm/26"

Jack's RM, across the shoulders, is as tight as my tightest jacket (a tweed hacking jacket). It might work, it might not...

 

[deeb7]

... It might work, it might not...

It might not ... because of the different ways that Eastman, and Real McCoy's size, effectively you would be dropping two sizes.

 

[unclegrumpy]

Looks like deeb7's nailed it...again!

Isn't 18.5" in the shoulders getting into what you would normally expect to see in a size 40?

 

[Maverickson]

As a G-1 enthusiast & someone that fits well into an original USN G-1 in a size 44 I would just like to comment on what I see. First and foremost you would have been hard pressed to have found an original size 44 jacket with those measurements seen on that Eastman. These measurements are reminiscent of an original size 46 or 48 and then some. The exceptions being that the sleeve length would have been even longer and the waist more narrow.

It seems that these days the problem with most individuals fitting comfortably in an original G-1 is the complete lack of gut room. A G-1 is simply not accommodating in that department and in an obvious attempt to increase the demand for these reproduction jackets, in particular this Eastman, makers have opened them up to allow the average guy fit into one. There in, the large shoulders as you will never find in an original size 44 G-1 jacket with such large dimensions in the shoulders. If the shoulders were not so large the length of the sleeves would have been just fine. Most all of my original G-1 jackets have more than ample sleeve length. However, if you want to fit nicely into an original G-1 you can not have much of a spare tire around the middle. Most repro jacket makers purposely have large shoulders so that individuals with the "modern build" will fit into them.

From my perspective you would probably fit into an original mid1950s G-1 in a size 44. A moderately to generously cut size 44 should have between 19"-20" shoulders, 23.00" - 24.00" at the underarms, 25.5" sleeves and 20" across the waist or where the waist knits meet the jackets shell. Yes, I have seen size 42 jackets this same size but they are the exception.

For me, I fit only just comfortably in jackets with the moderate or smaller size as explained for a size 44 G-1 & prefer the larger. As a comparison, my best fitting dress shirt size is 16 X 34/35, having a 33"- 34" waist, no spare tire & weigh in at 175 Lbs and 5' 11". If you are comparably sized individual you will also fit into a size 44 G-1. If you are as tall but only slightly larger with say a 36" waist but no larger than the previously described then the large or generous size measurements will then only just work. Thereafter, an original size 46 & 48 are your answer.

One thing is for sure, unless you want to continue going to the school of hard knocks, you would be better off indicating exactly what is you height, weight, size pants and dress shirt size you wear is for others to help you better decide exactly what sized jacket would make the best fit .

Cheers, Dave

 

[pipvh]

Thanks for that fulsome reply, Dave. I'm a bit in-between in terms of body type, shape etc: I'm 5'9.5" tall, something in the region of 180/190lbs, shirt size is 16.5, exactly 42" round the chest; trouser size is back down (!) to 34 and hopefully going lower. So I'm either a modern 42 or a 44 depending on cut, and vintage is complete pot luck. Re the spare tire, I've found that before with leather jackets: I had one that seemed to have been cut with a bay window to accommodate the gut I didn't (I'm relieved to say) actually have.

 

[jack aranda]

Hello, pipvh:
Given the dimensions you have just posted, I can save you any more time spent pining away for a RM size 42--it won't fit. It just fits me at 5'8", 165 lbs, with a 34" waist. It is definitely made on the original pattern, not for the middle-aged (or slightly younger) modern enthusiast. Hope this helps.

 

[pipvh]

Thanks, Jack. I was losing sleep...

So thanks to everybody for their help - especially Dave. There's a consensus as to fit, therefore if any of you have an M-422A/AN6552 in a 44 (or with 24" chest and 20" or 21" shoulders) or an original G-1 with slightly bigger dimensions, I'm your huckleberry, as Doc Holliday says in Wyatt Earp...

Cheers,

Pip

 

[jack aranda]

Good hunting, pip. Not to drive you mad, or anything, but...GW is sporting a couple of killer Navy jackets... They look pre-t-t-t-y ni-i-i-c-e. :twisted:

 

[m444uk]

Here goes with the measurements for my ELC G-1:

Chest: 65cm/25.5"
Shoulders: 55.5cm/22"
Arms to top of cuffs: 60cm/23.5"
Zipper: 60cm/23.5"
Length: 66cm/26"

Is the jacket used ? It seems to be a 46 or a 44 with custom long arms.

I've got a 1950s Foster 7823 G1 size 46 which measures

chest 24.5"
shoulders 21.5"
arms to cuff 23"
zip 23.5"
length 26"
waist 20"

A vintage jacket with a modern cut.

 

[pipvh]

There's a swarm of tiny M-422As, AN6552s and 55J14s on Ebay right now. Nothing bigger than a small 40. Seems as if there were hundreds of 44s when I wasn't after one. Most frustrating!