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Cleaning

John Lever

Moderator
Not sure about other members here but I have concerns about jackets bought on eBay. Very many are from pawn shops and traders so we have little or no idea of where they have been and any possible contamination they may have picked up from previous owners and environments over the years.
When I knew less about the risks of damage I would wash jackets in the machine using glycerine soap, air dry for 48 hours then warm tumble to complete drying. This causes shrinkage to the leather, pleasing nubbling to fleece but less desirable differential shrinkage to zip tapes. I have completely ruined three jackets by washing (repros) so I no longer clean in this way.
My method now is to freeze the jacket for 24 hours to kill any invertebrates such as bed bugs other parasies and moth larvae. Areas that have had the most wear I clean with upholstery or carpet shampoo from an aerosol dispenser. On a B3 this would be the collar and cuffs. The rest of the shell would be wiped using saddle soap or similar product. The zip and pocket flaps I would thoroughly clean using a sterilising wipe to lower any potential bacterial loading. When all dry I usually spray liberally with Febreeze (!)
I have found this to work well,a cleaner jacket that still retains some patina but hopefully less of the crud picked up during its life.
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
Interesting thoughts. I never really considered bed bugs and the like. Bacteria, however; are unlikely to survive more than 72 hrs.
I recently bought some Eucalan wash and tried that by hand. The upholstery cleaner is likely much more aggressive with more noticeable results. On the "lacquered" areas it works well with no fear of damage from soaking into the joints. It's rinseless but I use damp then nearly dry microfiber cloths to rinse.
I don't wear originals so I guess I let a lot more go.
Dave
 

John Lever

Moderator
Bed bugs are very difficult to eradicate so I never bring unknown jackets into the house before freezing them.
 

foster

Well-Known Member
When it comes to original WWII garments, I find myself wondering how much DDT they might be infused with. The method of delousing they utilized in the latter half of WWII was such that the garment could have had quite a bit of exposure to it, particularly on the interior (sleeves and collar area).

With regard to modern replicas, sometimes I have saddle soaped the leather and sometimes just used polish to clean it. If I don't want to try and wet the lining I will gently brush with a stuff bristled brush and leave in sunlight on a warm (and not too humid) day. Sometimes I febreze the lining as well. One time (and only one time) I bought a used jacket with some odors that I ended up gently hand washing it in the bath tub. Saddle soap on the leather, and gentle natural soap flakes on the cotton lining. I used a brush on the lining to clean it. It took quite a while to dry, but once dry it was in the same shape as before, only cleaner.

I like the freezer idea.
 

John Lever

Moderator
I think it was on the MASH website where I saw a reference to possible radiation contamination. Certainly after the first Iraq war there were cases of military surplus items exposed to harmful chemicals.
 

dujardin

Well-Known Member
thanks John

yes, since i knew this procedure, when i bought something, 2 - 3 days in the freezer
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I shoot the bacteria dead with my pistol.

How do you fit a B-3 in your freezer John?
You must have a big freezer.
 

John Lever

Moderator
dmar836 said:
You have to be careful joking about that nowadays!
Ha ha !
A B3 should easily fit into a small chest freezer. Obviously avoid excessive manipulation if the jacket somehow ices up.
 

Skip

Well-Known Member
Thanks John, freezing is a great idea, never thought of that, also has an added cooling effect if you want to wear it afterwards in the Oz Summer.

I made the mistake once of washing an original m422 in a warm watered bath, leather came up really well but it killed the zip lining as you mentioned, live and learn.

How does saddle soap differ from other normal washing compounds, is it still a soap based product?, and does it eradicate squeaky leather syndrome?
 

unclegrumpy

Well-Known Member
Freezing does not kill everything....but it does wonders knocking back live mold. One method that does kill bugs, is putting things in a tightly sealed trunk or footlocker with mothballs. A week and a good airing, and you are back in business.
 

John Lever

Moderator
Skip said:
Thanks John, freezing is a great idea, never thought of that, also has an added cooling effect if you want to wear it afterwards in the Oz Summer.

I made the mistake once of washing an original m422 in a warm watered bath, leather came up really well but it killed the zip lining as you mentioned, live and learn.

How does saddle soap differ from other normal washing compounds, is it still a soap based product?, and does it eradicate squeaky leather syndrome?
I think Saddlesoap is designed for equestrian gear and I have only used it occasionally as it might also contain lanolin. Unless a jacket looks very dirty I just use wet wipes or a damp towel.
The freezing method is commonly used to clear larvae from antiques.
 

unclegrumpy

Well-Known Member
John Lever said:
The freezing method is commonly used to clear larvae from antiques.
Yes, but success can depend on where the critters are in their life cycles and how cold the freeze is. I have a friend who is an African art dealer, and he uses both methods.....sometimes leaving things in deep freezers or in mothballed filled trunks for months. Even with that, sometimes things still hatch.

One common old time "cleaning" method for woolen clothing and carpets, was to throw them out on top of cold dry fresh snow, and let them sit out over night, with a few flips, turns, and shakes added for good measure. This method works amazingly well on a cold night, especially with some brushing to finish things up.
 

robrinay

Well-Known Member
I'd be careful not to bend a frozen garment for fear of breaking the stiffened fibres. Years ago I did a short taxidermy course at Wollaton Hall Nottingham, run by the (late) renowned Don Sharpe and he warned us not to flex frozen hides. He recommended using the freezing method to store hides prior to mounting and to kill lice etc.
 
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