Bill Kelso jackets - original jacket fit differences

[jollygreenslugg]

G'day folks,

Could someone please tell me the differences between the Rough Wear 23380 and the Rough Wear 27752 contracts?

I'd also be interested in details of the Aero 18775 and Dubow 1755 please.

I'm trying to determine which one would be more suited to my shape. Which would be the trimmest?

Thank you for any advice. I've managed to find some online references, but not a lot.

Cheers,
Matt

 

[unclegrumpy]

It would help to give us your height, weight, and body shape. Kelso takes your measurements into consideration, so I am pretty sure any of these will work for you. As far as A-2 contracts go, these are all fairly square and generous, so the difference is mostly going to be in the design details. You might want to look at the Goodwear site for more detailed descriptions of these contracts, though each company uses their own patterns so there will be some differences.

That said, I would expect the Dubow to be the "trimmest" looking of the group.

 

[Anonymous]

the way to find the trimmest should be
to compare the measurements of jackets of the same size
from each contract

 

[unclegrumpy]

I have only handled one Kelso, so it is hard for me to speak to how different their actual patterns are between contacts.

However, I have handled 100's of original A-2's, and seen and tried on most, if not all of the different GW patterns. With originals and GW's, measurements only tell part of the story. The cut and design details between makers and their contracts can make a tremendous difference in fit. This is especially true in the back panels, shoulders, arm holes, and sleeve taper.

If patterned directly after original A-2's, the closer you are to being a trim 5'8" 23 year old, the better they all fit. However, if you look at period photos, the earlier war jackets....like Aero, RW, and some Werbers....tend to have a squarer boxier cut, while some of the later contracts are more tapered and narrow waisted.

In the end, I think you can trust that Kelso will want you to be happy with your jacket, and will do their best to ensure that you get something that fits and looks right for your body type.

 

[Roughwear]

G'day folks,

Could someone please tell me the differences between the Rough Wear 23380 and the Rough Wear 27752 contracts?

I'd also be interested in details of the Aero 18775 and Dubow 1755 please.

I'm trying to determine which one would be more suited to my shape. Which would be the trimmest?

Thank you for any advice. I've managed to find some online references, but not a lot.

Cheers,
Matt

I can't comment on the BK repros but I can comment on the originals as I have/own examples of the four contracts you mention. The RW 23380 is very similar to RW 1401-P and all the ones I have seen have a Crown zipper. They tend to slightly darker than the 1401-P. The 27752 normally has a Talon zip and is made from hh varying in colour from russet to seal brown. The pocket flaps are shorter than on previous RW contracts and the stitching on the collar and sleeves is slightly further from the edge than the four earlier contracts.

The Aero 18775 was one of the largest contracts issued to Aero amounting to 50,000 jackets in May 1942. Details of this contract, which are different from most of the jackets of earlier contracts, are that some jackets were made with rounded corners in the collar points, and rounded pocket body corners. Some had the familiar berry knits and all had Talon zips. They are quite a boxy fit.

The Dubow 1755 contract dates to June 1944 and is very similar to the previous 27798 contract, but is usually seen in dark seal horsehide. It's a very sharp design with its pointed collar and curved pockets. Originals were fitted with Talon zips and purple-brown knits. It has wide epaulets and quite square shoulders. It is the trimest of the four contracts, almost resembling a military shirt!

 

[ButteMT61]

If you go to the Good Wear site, John has good info on each jacket/contract.
Seems generically speaking. The earlier contracts appear trim,er, and get fuller over time.
Just look at the contracts and the info there.

http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/index.html

 

[Hobbstc]

When I was deciding the size of 1755 to order from BK the measurements sent to me were:

Dubow size 44
-----------------
pit to pit 23 1/2
shoulders 18 1/2
back 24 3/4
sleeve 25 3/4

Dubow size 46
----------------
pit to pit 24 1/2
shoulders 19
back 25
sleeve 26