368th BS - Time for a little bullion

[Yardstick]

Well this one required a totally new skill set! I've never done any bullion or goldwork as it is also called. Bullion is basically gilded (silver or gold) coiled wire springs of different gauges and cross-sections. These need to be cut to the correct length and then carefully sewn into the design. It requires supreme accuracy and the correct techniques to ensure that the cut ends are covered, otherwise the whole thing becomes a snaggy mess. After much studying of originals and a lot of Googling / YouTube videos, I've made a passable attempt at a couple of patches that incorporate small amounts of bullion work. I'm not that interested in getting into dress uniform full bullion patches (they are not really my thing and would be very time consuming) but the odd patch that has a little bullion trim is a nice variation on the usual theme.

There are a handful of English and Italian made patches that incorporate bullion detail and this version of the 368th Bomb Squadron patch is one of the nicest. The main design is set out on natural, off-white felt and then cut to shape. This piece is then edge stitched to a chocolate brown base (in this instance wool felt) and then the bullion work added and finished with black thread edging. It's very fiddly work as the gauge of bullion is the smallest size made (not the easiest for a first try), but I think it came out ok. I've also included a couple of originals (one on felt, the other leather) which I used for reference - the silver bullion on these had tarnished over time, hence the darker appearance.

 

[ausreenactor]

If anyone was going to nail a new skill like this... it was you mate!

 

[Yardstick]

If anyone was going to nail a new skill like this... it was you mate!

Thanks - I'm currently working on another 8th AAF patch that incorporates bullion with a few others in the pile. I've also ordered some silk to try my hand at Italian style fabric patches. Many of these use thin card templates over which the threads are laid. This gives a very crisp outline to the design. Example below shows the card template showing through under the worn threads.