ahhhh, yes, yogi's, "deja vu" all over again. as a side mention, the first dubow contract, like other pre war contracts were made of a light colored russet hh, collar stand, narrower sleeves, and were a tad longer, and narrower per relative size[yes even for a dubow] then subsequent contracts. the second contract had elements of the first and third contract [similar to the 16160 aero contract], having become wider, with wider sleeves, and some with, and some without collar stands. also, some of the second contract dubows had "property of...." on the nomenclature label, while others had a "property of "added on a separate label strip below the nomenclature label. meanwhile, all of the dubow contracts maintained the classic scalloped pocket flaps and curved pointy collar, that kinda echoed the scalloped pocket flaps. imo, a very well thought out aesthetic. dubow used all manor of zippers through out their production, ie: kwiks, talons [nickel as well as brass] and crowns. best as i cant ell,, dubow used horween hh as ken mentioned, as well as goat, and in all likelyhood, moo as well.