Vintage Jacket Identification

[Spitfireace]

I thought I'd put up this jacket for interests sake, it looks to be a thirties or forties era jacket, from the Lightning zipper, I would date it as that. Lightning was a Canadian zipper manufacturer and during WW2 they were used in the Canadian Irvin jackets. Lightning was bought by Talon USA in 1955 by my investigation. I think it's a Franco Canadian brand jacket. Aero Leather makes a copy, it has some weak points in the shoulder but I am going to restore it because you just can't find jackets that are as quality as this. Real mouton, and I believe silk in the lining, it's seen better days but I believe it to be as old as WW2 for sure, or at the least early fifties, but I think more closer to forties era.

 

[Smithy]

Once it's received a bit of a makeover and tarted up a bit, should be a nice jacket. Best of luck with the resto, have you decided who you might get to restore it?

 

[B-Man2]

It has a lot of potential. I don't think I would do a lot to it, other than work on the collar a bit.
Its that vintage look that brings out its character.

 

[Spitfireace]

who might restore it? I've got a local guy but not sure yet.........

 

[Spitfireace]

replace the mouton?

 

[Smithy]

Aero can certainly restore that. Only prob would be paying postage to and from Scotland but they're some of the best out there.

 

[Spitfireace]

think I can find some mouton, but it must be original looking, the yellowed type it's always so traumatic to try to replace something like that.

 

[Spitfireace]

I know someone here..... but I hate trying to trust someone... I have an original Monarch A-2 as well and I am about to sew a few non original patches on it.. but I 'd rather not get into a judgemental fight about it.

 

[Spitfireace]

That is I know someone in Vancouver to sew some stuff.

 

[Spitfireace]

or maybe Aero leather Clothing I do like those people.......

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

The jacket is Canadian,. late 40s, I've had one of those for nearly 30 years, it's had odd bits of restoration over the years but is basically still original. I don't have a picture of mine but here's one belonging to a friend alonside a replica we made for him, slightly different detaling than our standard version http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=1473

 

[B-Man2]

Nice looking jacket.
Looks like a hybrid composed of 2 or 3 different flight jackets.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Nice looking jacket.
Looks like a hybrid composed of 2 or 3 different flight jackets.

...........which applies to most vintage jackets of that era :>)
I've seen at least four slightly different versions of this particular style, all Canadian.
Spitfireace's jacket looks to be identical to mine, I'd be 99% sure from the same maker, the label was missing when I got it.
The one in my post (above) has four belt loops as opposed to two in all the other versions I've seen, different fitting and more design stitching on the pocket trim

 

[dmar836]

think I can find some mouton, but it must be original looking...

I have an original Monarch A-2 as well and I am about to sew a few non original patches on it...

You are a complicated individual.
Dave

 

[Spitfireace]

...........which applies to most vintage jackets of that era :>)
I've seen at least four slightly different versions of this particular style, all Canadian.
Spitfireace's jacket looks to be identical to mine, I'd be 99% sure from the same maker, the label was missing when I got it.
The one in my post (above) has four belt loops as opposed to two in all the other versions I've seen, different fitting and more design stitching on the pocket trim

Here's a few more pics. Oddly enough this jacket does not have a label either. The mouton on the back of the liner is in very good condition for it's age, not dirty at all. The quilting which I think is silk, is also good except for the bottom at the waist where it is worn. I think it would almost be better to leave it as is there, because trying to match it would be difficult perhaps. The real issue is around the neck collar area which is worn through the mouton, and there is some torn leather you can see in the left of the picture. Some small matching replacement pieces would have to be sewn in there I imagine.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

The jacket isn't the same as mine inside, the sheepskin on mine is in both the front and back.
Forget patching the facing, that'll never work.
The whole restoration would balance on the quailty of match of a complete replacement facing. If an acceptable match can't be achived there's very little point in starting.

Facing sourced the following would utterly transform the jacket
As the collar and facing need removing anyway, the curent body lining would be removed (leaving only the sleeves in place)
I'd replace the whole upper body lining (front and back in "new" shearling using the old sections as a template but cut these panels 2 & 1/2" longer than the current body shearling and quilted upper front.Use the shearling from the current back for the replacement collar to preserve the matching of age to the exterior. (Don't forget to take the template of the back before cutting the replacement collar from the back lining!!)
The strip along the bottom should have the rough hem area cut off all the way along the bottom by 2", when th quilted strip (now missing the wear) is refitted to the new upper body lining it should be flipped so the higher edge now becomes the hem and the quilted hem and sleeve lining still match!
Don't try this at home..........You'd need a shearling machine and a walking foot, not to mention a fair amount of ability, to achieve the best results..........or, if you are not in a hurry Aero could fix it for you

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

..........just a thought, I just noticed the seaming on the facing, it might be possible to cut a new upper facing from the back collar and use a corduroy backing for the new collar, historucally correct and problem solved if the back collar is big enough.

 

[Spitfireace]

Thanks for the input Ken, I was in for an Aero restoration until I checked what it costs to send a box with a jacket in it to Scotland from Vancouver. The cheapest was Canada Post at $210 for surface delivery taking from 4 to 6 weeks. The air delivery is in $400 dollar range. The fastest air delivery is $700 dollars. This a box of two feet by two feet and one foot high, and an estimated three pound weight. So for these sorts of outrageous rates I would be better off just going over there for a holiday. I'd like to do that one of these days, but it won't be in the near future.

 

[Smithy]

Thanks for the input Ken, I was in for an Aero restoration until I checked what it costs to send a box with a jacket in it to Scotland from Vancouver. The cheapest was Canada Post at $210 for surface delivery taking from 4 to 6 weeks. The air delivery is in $400 dollar range. The fastest air delivery is $700 dollars. This a box of two feet by two feet and one foot high, and an estimated three pound weight. So for these sorts of outrageous rates I would be better off just going over there for a holiday. I'd like to do that one of these days, but it won't be in the near future.

That's bloody highway robbery!!!! And to think I thought Australia Post was terrible back in the day.

That truly is ludicrous.

 

[Silver Surfer]

wtf? a usps medium or large box with a jacket, sent from the us to the uk is in the range of $75-$90 [depending on weight]. are ya sure about the canadian mail-shipping rates? dont seem right.