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Vintage '50s Civi Car Coat from a familiar brand

mulceber

Moderator
Hey all, I wanted to show you all a jacket I got a few weeks ago from Terry over on the Hat Place. I've been idly looking at exploring civilian jackets a little bit more, and when I saw the maker on this one, I made an impulse buy:

16646666-AB5A-46A5-B9B7-BD4115AE605D_1_105_c.jpeg


This might be of interest to @Maverickson. ;) The jacket is a fairly heavy weight horsehide, definitely heavier than what was used on the A-2s, and almost as heavy as my Badalassi cowhide A-2 from BK, which is the heaviest jacket I own. The leather is still nice and supple, although it has some beautiful grain. As you can see above, it has a quilted rayon lining, which is still in great shape.
24127387-832C-4F34-82FE-DC154BEFE4B9_1_105_c.jpeg

7F9E51EB-80C7-46A7-ACF5-09E39E9E36B2_1_105_c.jpeg

23B808EE-2A0F-4A02-A0D8-37AA5C8A6666_1_105_c.jpeg


Terry dated it to about 1950, based on the gathered waist, but it also has a Conmar zipper that could probably be used to date it a bit more exactly.
F11F8FA0-90E0-4302-AF56-9300E8E7ED74_1_105_c.jpeg

E95A8ADC-9FB8-4A97-AB2A-F31DC02B049C_1_105_c.jpeg


I don't know too much about stitching, but I understand that Monarchs were sewn with a special seam, so I thought I'd include this picture:
5B333409-10F1-4201-A501-C580A01C83EF_1_105_c.jpeg


And of course the fit pics. :D Looks to me like Monarch kept using the same collar template from their A-2s for other jackets.
B8CB7E22-95FA-4F06-ACA6-8FAFAEF215B1_1_105_c.jpeg

63331145023__D8550D6A-857C-42CD-9028-BB7A524B5F93.jpeg
 
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Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
That’s a fine looking jacket on you and definitely “all occasion outerwear” just as the label says. Nice find there Jan these civilian jackets are an interesting area that deserve to be explored. Interesting point about the collar.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Jan
This is a case of who complements what . I’m not sure if you compliment the jacket or the jacket compliments you more. Either way it’s a winner and a nice piece of history .
 
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Silver Surfer

Well-Known Member
the conmar zipper used on your jacket is from the late 40s-early 50s. the deal about the unique stitching is that almost exclusively, monarch used "French seams", aka butted seams on almost all of the civy jackets that they manufactured. this is best explained by Dave Shelley, but this type of construction is-was time consuming. every now and again, you will come across a jacket with a sears, penny, or Montgomery ward label that has French seams. reason is that the large companies such as sears did not actually manufacture leather jackets, they sub contracted the manufacturing to leather jacket makers such as monarch. the monarch jackets are super well made, and classy. good haul, and nice fit, too.
 

Kennyz

Well-Known Member
Great find! The fit looks tailor made for you, Jan. I like that design, very versatile - "all occasion" indeed.

Ken



Hey all, I wanted to show you all a jacket I got a few weeks ago from Terry over on the Hat Place. I've been idly looking at exploring civilian jackets a little bit more, and when I saw the maker on this one, I made an impulse buy:

View attachment 52674

This might be of interest to @Maverickson. ;) The jacket is a fairly heavy weight horsehide, definitely heavier than what was used on the A-2s, and almost as heavy as my Badalassi cowhide A-2 from BK, which is the heaviest jacket I own. The leather is still nice and supple, although it has some beautiful grain. As you can see above, it has a quilted rayon lining, which is still in great shape.
View attachment 52675
View attachment 52676
View attachment 52677

Terry dated it to about 1950, based on the gathered waist, but it also has a Conmar zipper that could probably be used to date it a bit more exactly.
View attachment 52678
View attachment 52679

I don't know too much about stitching, but I understand that Monarchs were sewn with a special seam, so I thought I'd include this picture:
View attachment 52680

And of course the fit pics. :D Looks to me like Monarch kept using the same collar template from their A-2s for other jackets.
View attachment 52681
View attachment 52682
 

CBI

Well-Known Member
excellent jacket. this is the type of leather jacket that really works for me, something that is not short waisted. if I ever buy another leather jacket, its going to be something like this. I have been sort of looking at things like leather "pea coats", etc. Enjoy!!!!!
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Cool jacket! Yes, the collar template and much more was carried over from Monarch's civilian jackets to their mil spec A-2.

My same but earlier version is seen below.

Monarch Dark Brown Split Back.jpg
Monarch Dark Brown Split Back Reverse (1).jpg


Rayon lining.

Original Lined Monarch Half Belt.jpg


The remnants of the size 44 label is now just visible.

MonarchLabel .jpg


I upgraded the original Talon cigarette pocket pull to a ball and chain.

Monarchs NewTalon Ball & Chain.jpg

The blackened brass main zip on my jacket was the same used on Monarch's War era USN type AN model jackets.

The hide on this now nearly 80 year old jacket is paper thin, well broken in and super comfortable. Furthermore, in spite of its size one of the more light original horse hide jackets I own and one of my more favorite wearers.

Like yours, mine was also purchased from Terry over at the hat forum.

Cheers, Dave
 
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Silver Surfer

Well-Known Member
by all accounts, Dave,, your monarch appears to be a '40s jacket, yet it has the sleeve end belts and buckles. I always thought that the sleeve belts and buckles were a '20s-'30s set up, and discontinued by the end of the '30s. learn something new every day.
 
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