USN 37J1 Style

[Earloffunk]

Just ordered me one (well, actually two to have a choice which size really fits as they are said to be running on the smaller side) of these from Silvermans:https://www.silvermans.co.uk/collec...lots-37j1-canvas-jacket?variant=5223052378149

I know that they are not 100% repros but still think they make a nice jacket for the warmer days of the year (although maybe a little late for wearing this year... but we never know).

Will post some pictures when it arrives.

Cheers - for all those in Germany: enjoy the last day of summer - flight jacket temperatures are coming!

 

[B-Man2]

Please post some pictures and give us a quick review when it arrives . Congrats , I think you’ll really like this one.

 

[zoomer]

Yes, I too would love to hear a wearer’s impressions. I have been wanting a decent 37J1 in western sizing for over a decade and I'm convinced such a thing can only come from Good Wear - probably at a price much higher than even Real McCoy's.

In researching the 37J, I have learned it violates too many rules of marketing. Knits on a spring/summer jacket limit its appeal. Yet making it a 3-season item - say with a button-out liner or water treatment - would steal sales from both established and fashionable designs. And real Bedford cord might cost just a little too much vs. the amount of tailoring required. (The only Bedford cord garment widely sold in the US is jeans.) Finally, the design is just too damn elegant, with no flash or gimmicks to catch the eye. But understanding all that, these new offerings are welcome.

My review of Cockpit USA's faux-Bedford cord 37J is here, in case there's anyone left in VLJ land who hasn't seen it. I like it enough, I'm thinking of water treating it and having the GI Joe liner replaced with a 5 1/2 oz beige cotton. The knits may have to go, too - CPT offered to send me more to make a regulation sized collar, then bitched when I said I needed enough to go around my neck!

 

[Earloffunk]

... will do.

Jackets are on their way. Hope they’ll get here tomorrow.

 

[Earloffunk]

... still in transit...

 

[Earloffunk]

Just received the jackets. Immediately unpacked them. Tried them on. M would be the best size for me (even though they said I should order one size up from my regular size). Then repacked them and will send both jackets back for two reasons: First the arm hole is too small to be comfortable. Second the color. The color in reality is not nearly the same as on their website. Ist more orangey/peachey (seems to be an general problem with this color - even my picture does not show the true color - because if it was I probably would have kept the jacket despite the small armhole...).

 

[B-Man2]

Great to know. Thanks for posting

 

[zoomer]

How's the fabric? 17oz canvas sounds overly heavy. And what are the knits made of?

Why do they call it RIBBED? It's obviously slub woven. Not even a crisp navy duck. Really going for the casual look here. The analogy would be making an A-2 out of suede, then calling it a milspec replica.

As I said, the 37J1 design violates too many rules. It has to be drastically messed with to reach the midmarket.

 

[B-Man2]

As I previously mentioned, a couple of weeks ago I snagged a couple of jackets off EBay at some pretty decent prices. One of them was a very rare Good Wear Bedford Cloth 37J1. I say rare but only in the sense that JC made very few of these. In fact this is the only one I know of, so if there are others out there please let me know so I can correct this post. Anyway here are some photos for comparison purposes to those jackets previously posted in this thread. Hope you guys like them.
Cheers
B-Man2

I

 

[zoomer]

AIUI, JC only had access to 16 wale Bedford cord, whereas the Navy Jungle Cloth was 24 wale.

Another thing this old graphic designer can’t help noticing is the Helvetica type used in the stamp. Helvetica in Latin means “Swiss,” and it is a product of the 1950s Swiss revolution in design and strongly identified with same.

Nonetheless, all good things begin in prototype. I hope JC will revisit this grand old jacket, even if he has to ask Far East prices for it - because with his care and scruples it will be beyond excellent.

 

[Geeboo]

zoomer - you are really into the details of 37J1, I am impressed. I have never seen anyone touched on the subject of wales in the jungle cloth.
Agree - yes, the cloth jungle wale is finer in my original N1- possbly 24 wale - and so fine that it has a sort of very light silky hand-touch. Very difficult to buy - I got 2 lengths - of the corect wales in navy :>

BMan - an awesome jacket - the best repro I have seen. 1 small thing is that the Talon fan slider also being 30's, the originals use another Talon slider, not this wide fan type which is usu. used in civilian jackets.

The olive pic is taken around the cuff of an original 2nd pattern N1 - which is around 26 wales.

The last pic shows the back letter covers about 8 wales - that shows how fine the cloth wales is/ should be.

 

[B-Man2]

Once again Geeboo, you are truly a Wizard when it comes to these jackets.
You are amazing buddy !

 

[zoomer]

I just received a canvas 37J from Silvermans. I was let down to discover that even a 2XL (46) is a bit tight on me. Earloffunk is right that the arm holes are very constricting. The shoulders actually rode up when I put it on, and that is very unusual.

The canvas material is slubby rather than crisply woven, and the color - a vivid, cornmeal yellow - is quite a ways from the "tan" advertised, with a paler yellow, cotton lawn lining. Knits appear to be cotton and a slightly lighter brown than in Earl's pix (but still dark). Zipper tape and the inner pocket zipper, for some reason, are black.

Torn whether to take a chance on an exchange for a 3XL or just return this. Even fitting correctly it would need at least a re-dye before I cared to wear it - it really is yellow!

 

[B-Man2]

I just received a canvas 37J from Silvermans. I was let down to discover that even a 2XL (46) is a bit tight on me. Earloffunk is right that the arm holes are very constricting. The shoulders actually rode up when I put it on, and that is very unusual.

The canvas material is slubby rather than crisply woven, and the color - a vivid, cornmeal yellow - is quite a ways from the "tan" advertised, with a paler yellow, cotton lawn lining. Knits appear to be cotton and a slightly lighter brown than in Earl's pix (but still dark). Zipper tape and the inner pocket zipper, for some reason, are black.

Torn whether to take a chance on an exchange for a 3XL or just return this. Even fitting correctly it would need at least a re-dye before I cared to wear it - it really is yellow!

Zoomer
Wouldn’t the re-dye add to your problems rather than help things out? I’m thinking about the zipper tape shrinking and the knits getting re-dyed might not come out properly. Not to mention the USN marking picking up the dye. Just some thoughts ...

 

[Earloffunk]

Send it back and don’t order another one - it won’t get any comfyer with a bigger size. Trust me, I tried. The armholes are a big problem.

 

[A2 B3au]

As I previously mentioned, a couple of weeks ago I snagged a couple of jackets off EBay at some pretty decent prices. One of them was a very rare Good Wear Bedford Cloth 37J1. I say rare but only in the sense that JC made very few of these. In fact this is the only one I know of, so if there are others out there please let me know so I can correct this post. Anyway here are some photos for comparison purposes to those jackets previously posted in this thread. Hope you guys like them.
Cheers
B-Man2

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Very nice Bman
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[Griffon_301]

Owning a BR 37J1 I can say that besides being great jackets, a size 44 should also work for people who usually wear leather jackets in size 46...

So the BR rendition of the 37J1 does come in western sizes too

 

[MeachamLake]

Owning a BR 37J1 I can say that besides being great jackets, a size 44 should also work for people who usually wear leather jackets in size 46...

So the BR rendition of the 37J1 does come in western sizes too

Let me know if you ever want to sell it, I've been desperate to find one in a size 44 for ages!

 

[Griffon_301]

I know a guy in Vienna who has an example and is willing to sell it
Let Fardin at whitefeather know that you are interested...he has a size 44 for 460 Euros in his shop

 

[zoomer]

I own the Buzz 44, and except for the over-taper in the waist it fits me very well.
The 37J1 spec called for just a 2" drop from chest to waist. Buzz has 5".