the mystery jacket

[Ritchy]

I had identified a jacket last week that I thought was an ANJ-3-A.
I bought and received it today, it is a small size with the following dimensions:
Pit-to-pit 20.5 inches
Shoulder 18.9 inches
32.6 inch sleeves
Waist 18.5 inches
Back length 24.4 inches

Looks like the jacket has been restored in the past, the lining and knits seem to have been changed as well as the zipper which is a YKK.

The knits are double thickness with a seam for those of the sleeves.

Make way for the photos which I hope will allow the specialist to provide me with information on the type and manufacturer of this beautiful jacket.

 

[mulceber]

Looks to me like a Willis & Geiger AN-J-3A/AN-6552. And I think it's one of the horsehide ones, which would make it the contract N288s-35805, the second-to-last AN-contract.

 

[Ritchy]

Thank you Jan, the leather actually seems different and heavier than the goatskin of my other G1s.

 

[mulceber]

If it is that contract, then it's nicest condition in which I've ever seen a 35805. Really good find! It would be a good candidate for restoration - I know Dave Sheeley is partial to this contract.

 

[B-Man2]

I think you may have scored a winner here Ritchy. As Jan said it’s in good condition for its age and while the zipper and cuffs may have been replaced with inaccurate parts , that can always be changed .

 

[Ritchy]

It is really in very good condition. I will probably consider, later, an exchange for a jacket in my size or a sale to someone who wants to restore it

 

[Chandler]

That hide is in such good condition, gotta wonder what happened to the old zipper and knits.

Wonder if the mouton is original?

 

[Ritchy]

That hide is in such good condition, gotta wonder what happened to the old zipper and knits.

Wonder if the mouton is original?

Yes i think mouton is original, but can't be sure.

 

[B-Man2]

That looks original to my eyes. However if it’s not .. it still looks good .

 

[Shanghai-Mayne]

Congratulations, it looks way more better than seller’s pics.

 

[Ritchy]

I contacted Dave who confirms Jan's opinion, looking at the photos, the jacket seems to be a horsehide W&G.

 

[PeterShiao]

very similar to this one on Facebook i saw. everything is original

 

[Nickb123]

This is awesome. Blows my mind that some of these were made in HH.

Was there ever any later documentation allowing HH to be used or was this just an informal thing? My guess is the latter.

 

[mulceber]

It was definitely a one-off, as we don't see a non-goatskin Navy flight jacket again for another 25 years. Why is the question. Shortage of goatskin maybe? Navy exploring other leather types to see if they'd work in the long term? I don't think we have any answers as to why this contract alone was made in HH.

 

[Nickb123]

It was definitely a one-off, as we don't see a non-goatskin Navy flight jacket again for another 25 years. Why is the question. Shortage of goatskin maybe? Navy exploring other leather types to see if they'd work in the long term? I don't think we have any answers as to why this contract alone was made in HH.

Maybe the adherence to following of regs for the AN series were looser at that point. Also, it’s technically “Army and Navy” so maybe they wanted to include HH to give the army side some more representation. I kid.

You’re probably right Jan.

 

[Chandler]

Based on the military providing hides to the manufacturers, don't we think availability is the answer?

 

[mulceber]

Based on the military providing hides to the manufacturers, don't you think availability is the answer?

Very likely. That contract is also partly in goatskin, so a post-war shortage (the contract was made in 1946) makes the most sense.

 

[Ritchy]

It is amazing despite the age of the jacket that the contrasting color of the sews is still visible. I learned by looking at the presentation of Dave's beautiful reproduction that the knits were red.

WW-2 Era AN-J-3A G-1 M-422A W&G USN HORSEHIDE LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET REPRO BUILD | eBay

For a proposed build you are now admiring one of my custom renditions of a late WW-2 by W&G. This jacket is one of the more truly unique USN flight jackets. Or pix from my original horsehide N288s-35805 AN-J-3A jackets.

www.ebay.com

 

[Ritchy]

I took some photos this morning in daylight.

 

[B-Man2]

If that jacket fits you or even closely fits I would keep it . I think you found a rare bird and unless it’s too small to wear . I’d hang into it .