Sheeley's Impending USN Monarch Trifecta

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

With the advent of my Monarch G-1 build https://www.ebay.com/itm/402519769645 and previous AN model Monarch MFG. USN flight jackets leaves only the Monarch M-422 left unfulfilled. Once I am able to get the time to build that pending M-422 (recently sourced an original) I will have completed my Monarch USN jacket trifecta. Consisting of Monarch's M-422, AN and G-1 model jackets.

Most notably, I recently sourced an industrial bar tacking machine (same used to stitch leather shoes) to correctly attach this jacket's leather hanger. Exclusively used by Monarch MFG on their G-1 and more often than not during WW-2 by Bronco on their A-2. Exactly why up and until now this model Monarch jacket with it's inherent constraints was and continues to be avoided by most other makers.

In addition & above all my reproduction jackets are always recreated from in hand originals. All sourced through years of collecting. As a result my work is completely derived from those original designs. No guess work here.

Please stay tuned!

Cheers Dave

 

[B-Man2]

I’d happy offer a testimonial to Dave’s skills as a craftsman of some of the finest USN jackets. He restored my Pritzker to mint condition using the most accurate period parts and materials available, and in one area an original main zip as well. He’s a wizard !

 

[mulceber]

And he replaced the cuffs on my vintage AN-J-3 so that you wouldn’t even know they weren’t original to the jacket: matching knit color, matching thread, same stitch holes. Flawless work.

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

My Monarch MFG USN trifecta is now complete. As seen below I with a size 44 Monarch M-422. In doing I utilized two original M-422 jackets (size 36 & 40) from within my personal collection.

Since I have originals in the corresponding size jackets from both the AN and G-1 models made this transition a snap.

The back panel is hourglass shaped.

All lining seams top stitched as per Monarch MFG. Work that was over and above any USN spec.

All stitch work is was done using a brown colored silk thread. As per the original M-422 jacket spec.

Stencil is correct for the Monarch M-422 model contract.

Monarch M-422 jackets top stitched the lining on their off set map pockets two different ways. Either by stitching the leather or lining. I choose the latter.

From hands on experience I can tell you that few panels are completely inter changeable between the three (M-422, AN and G-1) model jackets. In a given size, those design variations between the three model jackets are more than enough for the wearer to know that they are wearing completely different jackets.

From the three the M-422 is the most over built.

Cheers, Dave

 

[ausreenactor]

Hi All,

My Monarch MFG USN trifecta is now complete. As seen below I with a size 44 Monarch M-422. In doing I utilized two original M-422 jackets (size 36 & 40) from within my personal collection.

Since I have originals in the corresponding size jackets. from both the AN and G-1 models made this transition a snap.


View attachment 83472
The back panel is hourglass shaped.
View attachment 83473View attachment 83475View attachment 83476
All lining seams top stitched as per Monarch MFG. Work that was over and above any USN spec.
View attachment 83477

All stitch work is was done using a brown colored silk thread. As per the original M-422 jacket spec.

View attachment 83478

View attachment 83479

Stencil is correct for the Monarch M-422 model contract.

View attachment 83480

From hands on experience I can tell you that few panels are inter changeable between the three (M-422, AN and G-1) model jackets. When worn those overall design differences between the different model jackets is distinct enough for the wearer to tell the difference between each model.

From the three the M-422 is the most over built.

Cheers, Dave

Wow! Over built perhals...but could never be under appreciated.

 

[Grant]

Amazing work, Dave. Thanks for sharing! After seeing these photos, I may just have to switch my order to a Monarch M422!
Did the original Monarch M422 use orange color stitching?
Being a total zip nerd, I really appreciate the painted Talon zip you're using!
Congrats on another amazing USN jacket.

 

[Maverickson]

Grant,

That is brown colored silk thread. The fact that it is silk verses cotton makes it much more shiny. Not to mention the exact same color seen used on my original jackets. The thread may look orange in the pix but it is brown in color all the same. That difference may also be accentuated by the dark colored hide.

The zip is a reproduction M-39 Talon and correct original M-39 slider.

Cheers, Dave

 

[CBI]

all looks amazing!

 

[mulceber]

Beautiful work, Dave. Your offerings keep getting better and better.

 

[Silver Surfer]

in a word, "WOW".

 

[Lorenzo_l]

Beautiful work, Dave. Your offerings keep getting better and better.

Ditto.

 

[Lord Flashheart]

Very nice work Dave. Very nice indeed.

 

[coolhandluke]

Absolutely gorgeous Dave. Would this be the same goatskin that you'd use on a Monarch AN-J-3? If so, I think that may be the direction that I'd like to go on my upcoming jacket build. I'm mailing my deposit to you tomorrow.

 

[Brettafett]

Yes, thats a work of art Dave. Fantastic!

 

[B-Man2]

Outstanding work of art Dave ……
You are gifted .

 

[Sideslip]

Beautiful craftsmanship and detail!

 

[Deacon211]

Amazing work. Beautiful jackets!

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

Recently had correct Monarch M-422 knits made up.

Notably, not the same weight nor rib to rack ratio as seen on any other M-422 or M-422A type jackets. In fact completely unique to this make and model M-422. The approximate weight and rib to rack ratio is more akin those that seen used on their G-1. Just a different color brown and height. Otherwise the same.

My Monarch M-422 type knits seen setting on top of a typical hide I use for my Monarch builds.

Those are 4" seal brown colored rib rack type waist knits. Note the narrow ribbing. Just as seen with all the original Monarch M-422 jackets I've handled.

While not one of mine, I recon that the following provided example of a Monarch M-422 type original waist band is as good as it gets.

Take a look at that rib to rack ratio. Between 5/8" and 3/4" over 4".

I will be utilzing those same knits going forward with all of my Monarch M-422 builds.

Likewise the Monarch G-1. Note the similar rib to rack ratio.

Now see a closeup. Note that same 5/8" to 3/4" rib width. Ironically just a slightly differnt color and height. Basically the same otherwise.

Cheers, Dave

 

[B-Man2]

Hi All,

Recently had correct Monarch M-422 knits made up.

Notably, not the same weight nor rib to rack ratio as seen on any other M-422 or M-422A type jackets. In fact completely unique to this make and model M-422. The approximate weight and rib to rack ratio is more akin those that seen used on their G-1. Just a different color brown and height. Otherwise the same.

My Monarch M-422 type knits seen setting on top of a typical hide I use for my Monarchs.

View attachment 106895
Those are 4" seal brown colored rib rack type waist knits. Note the narrow ribbing. Just as seen with all the original Monarch M-422 jackets I've handled.

While not one of mine, I recon that the following provided example of a Monarch M-422 type original waist band is as good as it gets.
View attachment 106897

Take a look at that rib to rack ratio. Between 5/8" and 3/4" over 4".

View attachment 106899

I will be utilzing those same knits going forward with all of my Monarch M-422 builds.

Likewise the Monarch G-1. Note the similar rib to rack ratio.

View attachment 106901

Now see a closeup. Note that same 5/8" to 3/4" rib width. Ironically just a slightly differnt color and height. Basically the same otherwise.

View attachment 106903



Cheers, Dave

Brilliant work Dave … just friggin gorgeous work .

 

[Lord Flashheart]

Spot on Burt. Absolutely top notch attention to detail Dave. Great to see.