Sheeley Perfecting Civilian Type Button UP Leather Jackets

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

Recently, I've been spending some time perfecting my talents doing button up vintage jackets and thought to share that work with the forum. Especially Monarch type designs that I have noticed some of the Japanese jacket makers have been busy duplicating.

In doing this latest build I employed 5 different machines to create the correct vintage look (using French seams complete) for civilian 1930s to early 1940s button up jackets. Done to raise the bar to more correctly and completely duplicate the Monarch way of building a jacket.

I've completely developed this button up pattern. All done using some of the many vintage Monarch jackets that I have accumulated. At this point I can now build that specific size model jacket as needed. All by simply changing lengths or swapping out the back panels to create the desired look & model for that given size. Whether form fitting like a half belt or semi relaxed like this referenced split back or an altogether loose fitting boxy jacket like seen done with Monarch's double breasted jacket aka Barnstomer.

See some descriptive pix on what you might expect to see with your build. In this case, from Monarch's pre War pattern.

Perfect Keyhole Buttonholes

Neck Hole

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019

Monarch Button Up Cuff Buttonhole

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019

Perfect Buttonhole

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019

French Seams Complete

Left Shoulder French Seam

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019

Right Shoulder French Seam

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019

Even the inside/lower Sleeve Panels

Inner Sleeve Panel French Seam

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019

Splitting Back Panel

Reverse View

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019
• french seams split back monarch

Vintage Buttons

Cuff Buttons

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019
• colt firearms mfg. vintage buttons

A rarely seen but a true Monarch design (copied from an original 1940s civilian Monarch jacket) & more often than not also used by Japanese makers https://www.thewildone.jp/item/theVanishingWest_freewheelers_FourCornersJacket_VINTAGEBLACK/ (same half gussets can be seen if you scroll down through those pix) on their builds.

Half Gusset

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019
• monarch type sleeve half gusset

As I do more like builds & from different model jackets I'll be adding to this thread!


Cheers, Dave

 

[jeremiah]

Looks great Dave. Thanks for sharing.

 

[saucerfiend]

Boy, those French seams are really impressive. Looks like they'd be tough to do. But, I guess you have the right machine for the job.
Great work !

Brian

 

[Jonesy86]

Thats a beauty, gotta love that original Monarch design! Is that goatskin?

 

[Maverickson]

Hi Brian,

Yes, French seams complete are avoided by most. As the work load is greatly increased when incorporating them into a build. That is as compared to the simple folded and reinforced seam generally seen. Even more simple are the straight blind stitch work done almost exclusively to the lower/inside sleeve seam by most. However, always seen done using French seams on a vintage Monarch.

Inner Sleeve Panel French Seam

• Maverickson
• Feb 14, 2019

On my builds I am after that correct Monarch MFG vintage look with my jackets.

As seen here https://www.thewildone.jp/item/theVanishingWest_freewheelers_FourCornersJacket_AmberBrown/ my pending version of this same model jacket with the Monarch MFG. inspired twist I am getting ready to build. If you notice, even the Japanese avoid double stitched French seam work.

Cheers, Dave

 

[Maverickson]

Thats a beauty, gotta love that original Monarch design! Is that goatskin?

Hi,

Yes, goatskin. The Japanese (like that seen referenced above) seem to be into horsehide which I also have available. I can do horsehide in three different colors. With goat hide I've got four completely different versions and many different colors of of goat hide. Sourced here in the USA, Italy & France & all vegetable tanned.

That seen referenced comes from France.

Cheers, Dave

 

[Pilot]

Very nice! Great work! impressive!

 

[Skip]

Nice work Dave

 

[Stony]

Nice!

I would like to see something similar in a shorter jacket if that's on the horizon.

 

[steve u.]

Dave,

You have my complete attention...

steve u.

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

I'm happy to see that there is some interest! Although still in the developmental stages I recently found an inspirational photo of the look I am after. According to Grant by a fairly well renowned portrait artist Mike Disfamer. No doubt taken some time during or soon after WW-2.

Mike Disfarmer Photo Of Button Up Jackets

• Maverickson
• Feb 15, 2019

My preference being with the shorter lengthed of those two button up jackets seen in that attached photo. The difference being that my proposed jacket would be upgraded. Set up with button up cuffs and a scalloped shape yoke triple pleated back panel. In addition, all done the Monarch MFG. look with French seams complete. Much like the off set zip up I did for the Silver Surfer like seen below.

Monarch Aviator Reverse

• Maverickson
• Jun 15, 2018

As seen done on that referenced jacket's (size 40 w/ 25" to 25 1/2" LOA back panel) reverse view & exactly what to expect with that proposed button up. All an upgrade above and well beyond those Japanese made Freewheelers.

Everything is in place for me to do this build. Currently, there is no hold up with expertise, materials or machinery. I just have to find the time.

Cheers, Dave

 

[Teddy]

Just saying, Dave, reading your posts is literally the "cure" (or curse) for me to get back into the leather jacket game. Nothing worked until I saw this jacket made by you, and now suddenly there are so many jackets I want (strangely ones made by you) but can't afford!

 

[steve u.]

I was finished buying any more jackets until I saw the Monarch 30's aviator style Dave was offering....^^^
steve u.

 

[johnwayne]

Well, can't let reading this thread without giving compliments where compliments are due! That jacket looks top drawer I must say, superb Dave, I take my hat of to you.

 

[John Lever]

Looks amazing, I admire your skill and dedication.

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

My shorter body version as suggested by Stony. Basically, conceived using the Japanese made Freewheelers Four Corners https://corlection.com/products/freewheelers-four-corners-horsehide-jacket-vintage-black as my model. But in this case with a few upgrades and my Sheeley Bros. label.

All done using my pre War Monarch MFG. pattern. The hide seen used is soft pliable seal brown goat. The thread is OD in color throughout.

Less the exposed pocket flap as seen on the Four Corners type cigarette pocket in favor of a zip. In hopes of achieving close to that same look as seen on that previous referenced Mike Disfarmer photograph.

The throat latch was modeled after the Monarch pre War M-422 version.

This particular jacket was done using French seams complete. Accomplished using my same vintage double needle machine utilized by Monarch to create their jackets back in the day. Thereby making it easier to do both the inner and outer sleeve seams. So often seen done on those jackets back in the day.

My Monarch type half gussets and same as seen used by Freewheelers on their Four Corners button up.

The fish eye buttons are a 1930s to 1940s vintage and button holes done using my vintage Reece 101 Keyhole Buttonhole machine. Which I have modified to give my jackets a raised stitch to those buttonholes.

Look forward to some horse hide versions!

Cheers, Dave

 

[Silver Surfer]

damn nice looking work, Dave. at this point, you're blowing the doors off of the Japanese builds. details, details, details,......where the devil is.

 

[bazelot]

I don't think i could have done better...

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

Please see another original and inspirational button up jacket that is somewhat reminiscent of my build.

That type of Monarch MFG was last used in 1948.

Cheers, Dave