Rough wear Clothing Co. W535 ac 23380 size 44

[Roughwear]

This jacket is from Rough Wear’s fourth contract and was awarded on 26th December 1941. Only 12,000 jackets were ordered making it their second smallest contract after the ac 16159 (9,700). According to Gary Eastman DNA testing has shown that cowhide was used in the contract, but whether all jackets in this contract were made from cow hide remains uncertain.

This jacket is numbered 792 and is a tagged size 44 on the paper pocket label, but it fits like a typical Wartime 42.
When I bought the jacket it had been badly relined and the top section of the collar had decayed. Therefore I used matching 1940s leather and replaced the top of the collar and relined the jacket. Relining the jacket involved removing the zip and re-stitching it using the original stitch holes. I am pleased with the result.

The seal leather is strong and does not have any rot or repairs. The waistband is original, but obviously the cuffs have been replaced at some stage. They have been top stitched and I have decided to leave them for the time being. The M-41 Crown functions perfectly. The label is an accurate reproduction supplied by BK, who make a fine reproduction of this contract.

 

[CBI]

terrific refurbish - excellent looking jacket!!!!

 

[Marv]

Excellent jacket, looks fantastic.........quick question to satisfy my curiosity though on something I have pondered on.

Which pocket is the no./size label stitched into (L or R) and to which side of that particular pocket, also is it the same for all Rough Wear contracts or even all A2 contracts.

Or is this preference Manufacturer specific or a requirement of A2 contract specs as to where the label is situated.

It's a bit of a nerdy type question I guess...........

 

[Roughwear]

Marv, the pocket label was inside the right hand pocket on Rough Wear contracts and for most other contracts where a pocket tag was used. They were in the left hand pocket on Doniger and some Dubow jackets. I have seen labels in both pockets on some Aero contracts, although they were usually only in the right pocket. Apart from Rough Wear, Aero and Doniger, Star, Dubow, Bronco, Werber, Monarch and United Sheeplined had pocket tags.

 

[Marv]

Thanks for the update Andrew, always informative.........I guess then, my GW RW27752 is somewhat unique as I have the size label in the left pocket of the jacket where as my ELC RW27752 has the label in the right pocket.

 

[JDAM]

A labour of love and quite a feat. Nice.

 

[dmar836]

Very good save! A labor of love.
Marv, FYI, my 27752 has the tag in the right pocket.
Dave

 

[dujardin]

good looking A2

pitty for the cuffs
is it me or are they bi-swing ; as on Navy jacket ?

 

[Roughwear]

good looking A2

pitty for the cuffs
is it me or are they bi-swing ; as on Navy jacket ?

Marcel, they appear to be old cuffs from the 1940s and could be naval ones. However as they are top stitched I will leave them at present. They are part of the jacket's history I guess!

 

[dujardin]

if it's a 40's repair; yes keep it in original condition
as you said, this is his history

congrats, nice one

 

[foster]

Thanks for the update Andrew, always informative.........I guess then, my GW RW27752 is somewhat unique as I have the size label in the left pocket of the jacket where as my ELC RW27752 has the label in the right pocket.

My GW 1401-P has the label in the left pocket as well. ELC 27752 label is in the right. Goodwear ones are so exact to originals it may be prudent to put the label in the opposing pocket to deter those who might try and pass the jacket off as an original (my speculation).

As far as I know, the majority of labels and tags in original WWII military garments were in the right pocket. (Lower right pocket for those garments with 4 pockets).

 

[bazelot]

Holy $#@#! Did you do everything by hand? Did you actually remove the original top section of the collar and reinstall another one yourself? That sure looks like a great jacket now.

 

[Roughwear]

Holy $#@#! Did you do everything by hand? Did you actually remove the original top section of the collar and reinstall another one yourself? That sure looks like a great jacket now.

Tom,

I did all the work myself on my sewing machine. I am very pleased with the collar. Yes I did remove the top section of the collar and the entire collar from the jacket. I used the damaged piece as a template and sewed the collar inside out before turning it back and top stitching it. I was able to follow original stitch holes when I re-installed the Crown zipper and replaced the lining.