Original Willis & Geiger(?) AN-J-3

[mulceber]

This jacket feels like one that was on meant to end up in Jorge’s collection, but then somehow got sidetracked and ended up with me. Over the summer summer, I became curious about the AN-J-3 and started doing some research on it. I hadn’t really expected that I’d ever own a real one, but as I was digging up information, I stumbled upon an eBay auction for an original…at $600…with zero bids.

The reason for the (relatively) low price became obvious as soon as I looked closely at it. Some complete idiot had thought this jacket would look better without knit cuffs and decided to do something about it.

All things considered though, I figured I wasn’t going to get a shot like this again any time soon. I made an offer a little above the starting bid, and the seller accepted. I figured an original this rare deserves the best treatment, so I sent it to the VLJ’s own Dave Sheeley. The Wizard of Virginia Beach managed to find what I think is a perfect match for the knits and the thread, and sewed the whole thing by hand using the original holes.

I had already known that, from what I could glean, the jacket was in great shape: the bottom knits didn’t have any nibbles, there were no tears in the lining, and the leather remained pliable, despite its age. While he was working on it, Dave also commented that the thread was in great shape - or at least as good as could be expected for being almost 80 years old.

So, here are the pictures!

When I first inspected the jacket, I was a little puzzled to see a snap at the base of the wind flap. I initially thought whoever had a go at it with the scissor had added that as well, but I’m told that some of the manufacturers of the AN-J-3 were playing around with different features. Based on this photo, I’m pretty sure the snap’s original.

The collar is also not for the faint of heart, and makes even a Rough Wear A-2 look restrained by comparison. It’s not the collar I would have designed, but it’s cool to have it in the rotation, and I can appreciate it as a part of the jacket’s history.

I suspect this jacket was actually issued to a pilot, rather than being a civi jacket. When I compare it to a civi AN-J-3 that John Chapman sold a while ago (https://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/sale_anj3_0001.html), this one has a mil. spec. zipper, and no label either in the liner or in the pocket:

Further contributing to the idea that this was an issued jacket, the epaulets have distinctive puncture holes, from where rank insignia would have been added:

 

[mulceber]

And finally, fit pics:

The fit is odd for an Army Air Force jacket, and when you wear it, it feels like what I’d expect for a Navy jacket with some AAF features grafted on (which I suppose is basically what it is). It’s also much longer than any A-2 jacket I’ve ever seen, and I can easily wear modern low-waisted jeans and have it cover my belt line. After spending years wearing A-2 jackets and getting used to the flat-sewn sleeves, I don’t think I was quite prepared for what it would be like to wear a vintage jacket with a bi-swing back. A fella could get used to this…

 

[Lord Flashheart]

That’s a fine looking jacket you have there Mulceber and a cracking result. Good effort.

 

[jack31916]

Great jacket and well done! Does it have a bi-swing?

 

[mulceber]

Yep, sorry, forgot the include pictures of the back:

What also stood out to me is the leather facing on the interior - like a Navy jacket, but smaller.

 

[Jorgeenriqueaguilera]

Nice one, Jan! And it fits you great! Man, I really missed this one!

 

[B-Man2]

That was a “diamond in the rough”.
a rare bird original . Nice score Jan.
You’re amazing a great collection of originals .
congrats!

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Lovely jacket mulceber, great price too, as good as I've seen in a very long time, the last one through our hands in that condition made over £1000 and that must have been at least 10 years agoi

We've just finished restoring this one

We've always tried to buy these whenever we can, I think there a still couple of serious wrecks still in the factory but nothing in this extra large size

This particular jacket has obviously been much loved during it’s long lifetime judging by the work done on it before we acquired the basic shell, no lining, no zipper, no cuffs. Examination of the stitch holes tells us that by the time we acquired this jacket it had been relined at least twice, had at least four replacement L/H side zippers, two replacement R/H side zippers, a few pairs of cuffs and some very serviceable internal backing to the worn area at the bottom of the L/H under sleeve. The knitted waistband, however, appears to be the original an in excellent order so we have retained it

We’ve cut a full pattern from scratch and fitted a correct wine rayon replacement lining, a Japanese M42 Talon zipper, new wool cuffs and tidied up the stitching where necessary and as unobtrusively as possible. Some of the stitch holes from earlier repairs is still evident, we tried to re-stitch as much as possible through the original makers stitch holes

This is an exceptionally rare jacket, in a very hard to find large size, a genuine 46" , the biggest AN-j-3 we've ever had, is now solid and safe to wear and open to offers

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

It is nice to see a project come together so well!

The give away for this jacket that indicates that it may have been made by W&G is the pocket flaps and sleeve design. However, beyond that things get kind of confusing. As most of the true issued AN model W&G jackets issued to through the USN that I have handled were in fact stitched in nylon. On the other hand, this jacket was stitched using cotton.

Which leads into the question as exactly who was the maker that in fact built this jacket.

Cheers, Dave

.

 

[mulceber]

Thanks all - I am kind of shocked at how well this turned out. Probably my best eBay purchase ever.

And to anyone considering the jacket Ken posted, it definitely comes recommended. Among military jackets, it's pretty easy to fall into a pattern of wearing A-2 jackets and wearing M422A/G1 styles. This is a style that's a bit off the beaten path. And pretty comfortable to boot!

Interesting point, Dave - if most of the nylon-threaded ones that you've encountered were navy jackets, could the AAF have insisted on cotton thread? They seem to have been pretty set in their ways, to judge by how regularly they avoided convenient features like action pleats, slit pockets, and such.

 

[Ed Rooney]

Amazing find.

 

[Flightengineer]

A great find at a great price that has been perfectly restored. I love this jacket, Jan.

 

[blackrat2]

Thanks Jan
That’s a great jacket and pretty cool restoration you’ve done there
Great to see its gone to a good home and restored to a good level

 

[CBI]

great find!!!!

 

[Lorenzo_l]

You scored there, Jan. And in the process gave an original jacket a new lease on life. Well done.

 

[London Cabbie]

The collar is also not for the faint of heart, and makes even a Rough Wear A-2 look restrained by comparison.

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

While in hand I gave this entire jacket a good once over. Mulceber's jacket is in absolutely amazing condition. Above all well preserved. Right down to it's cotton thread which more often than not I find to be fragile. With the exception of the cuffs which I matched & replaced. Absolutely everything else is 100% original to that jacket.

This jacket is truly something to behold. Foremost & since up and until now it has had so little work done to it there are no unsightly ghost stitches present that result from amateur workmanship. So often seen in these vintage jackets. Like wise I did my work in such a way that no new holes were added. Thereby maintaining the over all integrity of this fine jacket.

I'm not exactly certain as to the design of front panel but the pockets, back panel, and sleeve design is 100% W&G. The exactly same used on their M-422A and over all key to this design.

My only gripe that I have with the over all design of this particular AN-J-3 jacket as a whole is the way left (male) zip is finished. Especially at the lower leather extensions. Almost like an afterthought.

Otherwise I like the over all design. Not to mention, a much more comfortable jacket as compared to an A-2.

My preference for the AN-J-3 was done by Monarch. However, the only originals I've seen to date were done exclusively for the civilian market. As evidenced by their labels.

The Monarch utilize a slightly more complicated design than the W&G for their USN type jackets. While not the only other superior USN jacket maker, Monarch utilized less straight lines, slightly more complicated & less boxy over all design than the W&G. Thus lending a look that is more pleasing to the eye.

Cheers, Dave