Mystery "Vintage" G1, Can you solve it?

[YoungMedic]

OK, also prompted by Burt's post, I've been meaning to do this for a bit. This is my Dads G1 he wore as a SH-3 crew member in the late 70's. Unknown exactly where or when he purchased, it never had a tag as long as I've had it. I assumed it was a Brill Bros after looking through alot of G1's. Any ideas?

 

[MaydayWei]

80/20 Dynel-cotton collar means it is post mid-1969.
And the pressed cowhide would means its an E contract.
So, at the very least it narrows it down to one of the following.
To borrow from @dinomartino1 and @Maverickson 's research:

MIL-J-7823E (AS) RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. DSA100-77-C-1518 1977
MIL-J-7823E(AS) IMPERIAL LEATHER & SPORTSWEAR INC. DSA100-76-C-1788 1976
MIL - J 7823E(AS) IMPERIAL LEATHER & SPORTSWEAR INC. DSA100-76-C-0375 1976
MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA100-75-C-0332 1975
MIL-J-7823E(AS) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-75-C-0331 1975
MIL-J-7823E(AS) IMPERIAL FASHIONS, INC. DSA100-74-0162 1974
MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA-73-C-0035 1973
MIL-J-7823E(AS) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-73-C-0034 1973
MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA-72-C1138 1972
MIL-J-7823E(AS) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-72-C-0060 1972
MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-71-C-1343 1971

It's also doesn't look like the milk-chocolate brown of the '76 Imperials.
So, I guess that means either a Brill, RE or Star.
Just my guess, though!

 

[B-Man2]

Tim
Great jacket, especially since it belonged to your dad . I’m trying to come up with something on the marking on that zipper but nothing yet . Hopefully one of the Naval Aviation jacket guys will weigh in here to identify this one .

 

[MediumMech]

Nice jacket!

Can someone please explain "pressed cowhide" for me? Presumably this is a process the hide is treated with? What is its purpose, and how can you tell if a hide is pressed?

Many thanks!

- Dave

 

[MaydayWei]

Nice jacket!

Can someone please explain "pressed cowhide" for me? Presumably this is a process the hide is treated with? What is its purpose, and how can you tell if a hide is pressed?

Many thanks!

- Dave

Hey Dave,
Pressed cowhide is not a treatment. It’s just a process where a blank piece of cow leather is pressed to mimic the grain of goat skin.
I hope that helps!

goatskin:

pressed cowhide:

 

[tda003]

It means that the leather is cowhide but with a pattern pressed into it to make it resemble goat skin. Not cheating. Contract specs permitted it. My limited experience with cowhide in G-1 jackets was that it always felt heavier to me than goat skin.

 

[MediumMech]

Amazing, thanks for that info @tda003 and @MaydayWei !

 

[YoungMedic]

Tim
Great jacket, especially since it belonged to your dad . I’m trying to come up with something on the marking on that zipper but nothing yet . Hopefully one of the Naval Aviation jacket guys will weigh in here to identify this one .

I thought the zipper slider was unmarked, but after more head tilting and squinting, it looks to say GENERAL which would line up with the G at the bottom of the zip as well

 

[tda003]

Looking at 3 G-1 jackets from around that period, I have 3:
Imperial has a Scovil zipper
Star has a Scovil zipper
Ralph Edwards has a Conair zipper
The only other manufacturer I'm aware of from then was Brill. I don't have one of theirs from then, but by process of elimination, that leaves Brill. They had contracts to produce them 1n 1971, '72, '73 & 75. I believe all of them had Dynel collars, but I don't have one to look at the leather.

 

[Silver Surfer]

I could never wrap my head around “pressed moo” Instead of goat. To the best of my knowledge, expense wise, goat is less expensive than cow, and cow less expensive than horse. whats more goat is actually more water resistant, and tougher than moo. Mysterioso

 

[tda003]

I suspect it's a function of availability. More moo here than goat?