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Here's a new G-1 I picked up for a good price. I think it's a 7823 or a 7823A but I don't know about the manufacturer. It has a Conmar brass zip. Any ideas on the manufacturer?
Close... I got a PM from buzzthetower (JC) and here is what he says about. And a public thanks to John for the ID.
Jeff,
Hope all is well! This jacket is 100% the very first Ralph Edwards 7823 (AER) contract. The company Cagleco Sportswear (Cape Girareau Leather Co.) had just changed their name to RE, but the pattern of the jacket looks almost identical to the previous Cagleco contracts. The only difference is that you see two vertical lines of stitching on the leather zipper tabs on each side of the waistband, just next to the waistband. I have no idea why they did that stitch, but Pritzker had been doing that, too. Any jacket with a Cagleco label doesn't have that.
After this contract, Edwards did the more popular and probably standard design of the rounded pocket flap, and moved the pockets a little farther from the zipper. At this point, in the 7823A series, I think the Navy had a much more refined set of pattern guidelines, so you don't see as many differences from one maker to another.
I hope that helps. It's a very rare contract, and I've only handled one of them, which was in great condition. Here are photos of it...