Black Label vs. White Label in G-1s: What's the Difference?

[rainguy]

It seems the most desirable jackets have the contractor label in black with gold embroidered letters, but there are also others, from the same time frame(s) that have a plain white label with the letters stamped on in black. What is the difference between the 2? Why the different tag colors and characteristics? Are the black labeled jackets inherently superior is some way? Just trying to learn more. Thanks.

 

[watchmanjimg]

I'm not 100% sure of the exact year, but I believe the white labels begin to show up in the early 1970s. The main difference is that such jackets will have synthetic collars and in some cases inferior-quality leather. As a general rule I feel the black label versions are finer jackets than most of the later ones.

 

[rainguy]

Thanks, watchman . .

Your info is consistent with my lone white label experience, a late-70s Brill Brothers. The collar seemed to be faux mouton and the leather was horrible; I think it was pebble-grain stamped over some thin, generic, board-stiff leather. The jacket was hideous. I see white label jackets on eBay and the LOOK fine. But, of course, photos don't reveal the weight or quality of the leather, mouton, etc.

 

[Atticus]

There were a very few 1972 black label, E-series jackets (Stars and Brills), but generally, the black labels ended with the D-series G-1s in 1971. Of course, the E-series jackets all had (have) dynal collars and many were made of embossed cowhide as opposed to goatskin.

When you're talking G-1s, older is almost always better.

AF

 

[rainguy]

Thanks, Atticus. I think I now have a semi-handle on this.

Scout.

 

[fedoralover]

Hey that info was great for me too, thanks.

fedoralover

 

[R7000]

The changeover year from black tag to white was 1972. There were jackets made that year with each. After 72 it was all white.

Tom

 

[442RCT]

I can't speak to other brands, but I recently purchased a G-1 Schott off of e-Bay. I wasn't sure if Schott ever had a military contract so I Googled it. I found an interesting reply on Schott's customer message board.

http://www.schottnyc.com/forum/posts/military_g1.htm

"The jacket you have is not a military issued jacket, it is our style # 675. We did do government issued jackets on several government bids. The label in the military issued jacket has much more information on it including the contract number, spec number with the jacket szie directly on the main label. At the bottom of the label it states the jacket was nade by Schott, the label is white with black print . Gail"

The jacket for sale had a white tag, so I bid on it and won. The jacket arrived and I'm very pleased with it. I dunno what it's made of, goat, cow, embossed cardboard, but it's very soft and supple. The collar is an artificial PETA friendly fur, but I'm OK with that.

 

[deeb7]

I found an interesting reply on Schott's customer message board.

http://www.schottnyc.com/forum/posts/military_g1.htm

I've read more of the Schott forum, and Gail's posts regarding contracts are always carefully worded, but never with specific dates, or contract numbers.

All I've ever found are some issued Schott made pea coats. The post above Gail's is more accurate ...

As far as I know, Schott didn't make military contract G1's. Their G1's are replicas...sorta.

 

[442RCT]

Oh well, it fits, it doesn't creak and I can paint or patch it up without feeling guilty...not that I wasn't gonna do all of that anyway