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Bill Kelso "Aeronaut A-1"

geedee

Active Member
Hi everyone, I'm a complete noob - first post! - and was looking for some advice; it sounds like you guys have got tons of experience so I'm in the right place for sure! I've been looking at this jacket for a while now, and wondered if anyone had any experience with this particular style? I'm thinking of the Russet Liberty Capeskin over HH - any experience of this leather, how it ages, what the colour looks like in reality versus the website photos? Thanks for your help guys!
 

mulceber

Moderator
I haven't experienced BK's capeskin, although I know it's well-regarded. Capeskin is really nice stuff, but it's not known for being tough. It's a pretty light leather. It's very much like lambskin in both those respects, although it's got a lot more character than most lambskin. If that sounds great to you, then you're all set. If you'd prefer something tougher, I'd consider goatskin, horsehide or BK's Badalassi cowhide, any of which will take a beating and come back for more.

The Aeronaut's a neat looking Cossack jacket. I've got a similar jacket from a different maker, and while it's nice, I tend to go in more for military styles (which BK also does quite well).

One word of advice that most BK buyers experience: after you place your order, it will take several months to make it. During that time, don't expect to hear from them. Do not worry though - you will get your jacket, and it will be excellent.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Welcome to VLJ GD!
Mulceber has offered some good advice regarding the jacket you’re interested in acquiring . While it’s named the Aeronaut A1 most of us here know that jacket by another name , which is a Cossack jacket made famous by Albert Einstein who wore one for a number of years . See below.


00F0EBBB-5A37-4565-A449-7844B74970DF.jpeg
6E1862F7-4360-49BF-BDD6-8B950C8862F1.jpeg
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi,
My pretty much same jacket aka Edgewater. Done both lined and non lined. Most notably an upgraded version to Einsteins.

The jackets I used to derive my pattern date back to 1932/1933.The latest one in the group was made in 1939. They were originally done with either button up or zip for closure. Either patch pocket or hand warming type.

My Work Jackets.jpg

Back in the day worn by the early aviators and well before the A-2 type jackets.

My jackets are upgraded because of the type of sleeve I utilize and additional stitch work.

These button up type jackets are now easier for me to do because I retired my vintage Reece 101 buttonhole machine. Then bit the bullet and purchased a brand new late model leather compatible keyhole buttonhole machine.

NON LINED VERSION SEEN IN HORSE AND GOAT HIDE


Shawl Jacket Pair .jpg




LINED GOAT HIDE


Button Up Shawl Size 40.jpg




Cheers, Dave
 
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geedee

Active Member
Wow beautiful jackets Maverickson. What do you mean when you say "the type of sleeve I utilize"? Apologies if that's a dumb question, I'm new here!
 

geedee

Active Member
Good to know. It seems like most of these Cossack - Aeronaut - "A-1" jackets have a single piece back with no bi-swing, so a sleeve-gusset will help a lot I guess. BTW is this the same as a sleeve-gusset -

1676648524591.png

.......it's from a BK "Wingman" style, which to my untrained eye looks like a Cossack but with a zip and a fancy multi-piece back.
 

mulceber

Moderator
I'm not positive if that qualifies as a gusset, as most gussets I've seen are a panel that's shaped like a(n American) football, but yeah, that panel at the armpit is designed to make the sleeves move more naturally with the body.
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi geedee,

No it is not. Your example shows a two piece lower sleeve panel. A quite common civlian type sleeve set up.

My sleeve's lower panel is one piece aka Aviator (no breaks) type sleeve. With a cap that was not modified but designed to be half gusseted. Not an afterthought. Pretty slick for a 90 year old design.

Also try as one might may it is a design that can not be gleaned from a pic.

Cheers, Dave
 
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