Advice for picking the correct size for a 70's G-1 (Brill Brothers, Star Sportswear,etc)

[The.Analog.Ronin]

Hello guys! This is my first thread on VLJ.
I want to buy a 70's G-1, most likely a Brill Bros, but I dont know which size to pick. I am a chest 40 but here I go:
I recently got a FS Leather jacket but find it too baggy (I'm even selling it). Measures are as follows:

Chest: 21.5in
Shoulders: 18.5in (looks like I'm wearing shoulder pads)
Back lenth: 25 in (i'll need an extra 0.2in)
sleeves (from shoulder seam to end of knitting): 25 in (same as back length)
waistband: 17.3 in
belly: 21in (maybe needs 1-1.5in less)

I am 5'9" (1.75m), 161 Lbs (73Kg)

Now, I have various jackets that with similar measures fit well but don't feel baggy. So, I dont know if a size 40 will be too short/snug and a 42 too wide on the shoulders and chest.

If anyone can provide measures (and/or pictures of them) and advice I'll be grateful for life. Thank you, everybody!

 

[Chandler]

What size and model is the FS jacket you mention?

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

What size and model is the FS jacket you mention?

Dubow 27798 goatskin, size 40, with wider shoulders(1.5in more), 0.4in more length, 0.4in less sleeve and 2.3in more waist (that's my bad). The thing is, I had a DeBrander that fit very short with 24in back length and sleeve and dont remember how much narrower it was, fut it fell uncomfortable.

Repro A2 J. A. Dubow Mfg Co Contract 27798 Order No W535ac 27798 Leather Flight Jacket

FiveStar Leather Repro Dubow A2 Leather Flight Jacket made from our Special Russet Brown Goatskin Veg. Tanned Leather True to Original Color, 100% Real wool Knitting's IN Russet Brown color made in USA, Repro Talon Zipper Fastening, 100% Cotton lining true to original Color, and this A2 Jacket...

www.fivestarleather.us

 

[Brettafett]

Im 5'10 with a 40" chest and have a Brill Bros D series from '71 size 42. Fits great.
Asking for measurements will likely not be of much help, they won't be exactly the same (for various reasons)
Main thing would be to go one size up from your chest for a trim, comfy fit.

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

Im 5'10 with a 40" chest and have a Brill Bros D series from '71 size 42. Fits great.
Asking for measurements will likely not be of much help, they won't be exactly the same (for various reasons)
Main thing would be to go one size up from your chest for a trim, comfy fit.
View attachment 135381

Thank you Brett!
Damn, you pulling it off! That's the fit I'm going after. Although you look fit.
I'll attach they this jacke looks on me. The 2 red line are, what I consider, too much shoulder.

 

[Shanghai-Mayne]

Thank you Brett!
Damn, you pulling it off! That's the fit I'm going after. Although you look fit.
I'll attach they this jacke looks on me. The 2 red line are, what I consider, too much shoulder.

It looks ok. A-2 and G-1 ,they are different cut on the should area.

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

It looks ok. A-2 and G-1 ,they are different cut on the should area.

How are they different? The G-1 falls more than the A-2? Please explain

 

[Shanghai-Mayne]

How are they different? The G-1 falls more than the A-2? Please explain

Use gen.McArthur’s jacket as example, and compare to yours fit pic, they are close except your jacket is newer, all you need to do is wearing the jacket, complete the break in process.

 

[Brettafett]

Let me just say, your Dubow looks like a good fit from here. And that has the classic WWII drape to my eye.
Plus ,it will loosen up and mould to your person over time and with wear.
Rather have a bit of room to manoeuvre, than something that looks trim (that 80s poster boy look), but wont allow you to move.

Onto the age-old fit question & debate.
Theres no hard & fast rules for fit. Each contract, each wearer and each wearer's fit preferences are different.
Best advice I can offer (humbly) is, is it comfortable to YOU?
You need to work out what works best for you. If it's comfortable, you will wear it. If not, you wont and it will take up closet space.

Try not to worry too much about appearance, what you or others 'think' looks correct.

And then comparing A-2s and G-1s?
It's like comparing apples and oranges, very different patterns.
Even within the A-2 category, each original maker interpreted the spec and created their own patterns.

A Dubow for example, is quite a different pattern compared to say a Roughwear and thus, would fit, drape and measure differently.
A lot depends on the wearer, body type, size, fit preference etc.
If you gather a number of WW2 pics of pilots wearing Dubows, you'll find the gamut of fit. Most will likely be slightly oversized, with the occasional trim look.

Goodwear has a pretty good description of each maker's quirks here.

Good Wear Leather Coat Company — Welcome!

www.goodwearleather.com

If you really are after a jacket that fits square to your shoulders, you need to look at contracts/ patterns that are made that way.
Bronco for example.
Or you need to experiment with sizing, but that opens up a world of pain and frustration.
You can try sizing down, you'll get squarer shoulders, but likely need to add length to the jacket and even then, will it be comfortable to wear.

As for originals G-1s, well... These are original, so come as they are. Again, different contracts and even different years, will likely fit (and measure) slightly differently.
So, best you can do is go by your chest measurement (size one up from your chest in most cases) and then check that the measurements are at least close to what you need.
At 5'9 I recon most 42 G-1s should work for you, but dont discount size 40s either.
(Ive had a Star and Brill in a 40 that fit well also and a couple of 42s that were too trim....)

Ive bought and sold many original G-1s, trying to get a good fit. Thats the price you pay... Im lucky to have 3 now that fit beautifully.
Interestingly enough, two are exactly the same maker, contract/year and size (42), and yet measure differently, but still both fit well.

 

[Thomas Koehle]

The other folks already explanied it but like @Brettafett just described: as for original G1 (I'm not that into A2) there is significant differences in maker/contract.

I own several BRILL BROTHERS and ALL 4 show diferent dimensions in chest which results also in different lenghts of the sleeves. I'd give myself a rough estimate like described to find a "general" direction and then try to get my hands on one.

Especially the smaller sizes should be available via this forum or EBAY still relatively affordable.

All my jackets are in size 46 which is on the larger side and not as easy to find.

BRILL BROTHERS in 46 - check the sleeves and shoulders

Another BRILL also in 46 - again compare sleeves and shoulder

Hmm - maybe not that obvious but you "feel" the difference when wearing the jacket

 

[Flightengineer]

Thomas, you are the G-1 king

 

[B-Man2]

Thomas
A fine collection of original G-1s in a hard to find size.
Congrats !

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

Let me just say, your Dubow looks like a good fit from here. And that has the classic WWII drape to my eye.
Plus ,it will loosen up and mould to your person over time and with wear.
Rather have a bit of room to manoeuvre, than something that looks trim (that 80s poster boy look), but wont allow you to move.

Onto the age-old fit question & debate.
Theres no hard & fast rules for fit. Each contract, each wearer and each wearer's fit preferences are different.
Best advice I can offer (humbly) is, is it comfortable to YOU?
You need to work out what works best for you. If it's comfortable, you will wear it. If not, you wont and it will take up closet space.

Try not to worry too much about appearance, what you or others 'think' looks correct.

And then comparing A-2s and G-1s?
It's like comparing apples and oranges, very different patterns.
Even within the A-2 category, each original maker interpreted the spec and created their own patterns.

A Dubow for example, is quite a different pattern compared to say a Roughwear and thus, would fit, drape and measure differently.
A lot depends on the wearer, body type, size, fit preference etc.
If you gather a number of WW2 pics of pilots wearing Dubows, you'll find the gamut of fit. Most will likely be slightly oversized, with the occasional trim look.

Goodwear has a pretty good description of each maker's quirks here.

Good Wear Leather Coat Company — Welcome!

www.goodwearleather.com

If you really are after a jacket that fits square to your shoulders, you need to look at contracts/ patterns that are made that way.
Bronco for example.
Or you need to experiment with sizing, but that opens up a world of pain and frustration.
You can try sizing down, you'll get squarer shoulders, but likely need to add length to the jacket and even then, will it be comfortable to wear.

As for originals G-1s, well... These are original, so come as they are. Again, different contracts and even different years, will likely fit (and measure) slightly differently.
So, best you can do is go by your chest measurement (size one up from your chest in most cases) and then check that the measurements are at least close to what you need.
At 5'9 I recon most 42 G-1s should work for you, but dont discount size 40s either.
(Ive had a Star and Brill in a 40 that fit well also and a couple of 42s that were too trim....)

Ive bought and sold many original G-1s, trying to get a good fit. Thats the price you pay... Im lucky to have 3 now that fit beautifully.
Interestingly enough, two are exactly the same maker, contract/year and size (42), and yet measure differently, but still both fit well.

Thank you for your honesty and the information provided. I've settled for a '68 G-1 Star Sportswear Size 40 that has similar measures as the Dubow on the picture. Seller also offered a size 40 Imperial but, as you stated: square shoulders, ver short on the back and sleeves. I'll post pictures when it gets home.

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

The other folks already explanied it but like @Brettafett just described: as for original G1 (I'm not that into A2) there is significant differences in maker/contract.

I own several BRILL BROTHERS and ALL 4 show diferent dimensions in chest which results also in different lenghts of the sleeves. I'd give myself a rough estimate like described to find a "general" direction and then try to get my hands on one.

Especially the smaller sizes should be available via this forum or EBAY still relatively affordable.

All my jackets are in size 46 which is on the larger side and not as easy to find.

BRILL BROTHERS in 46 - check the sleeves and shoulders

Another BRILL also in 46 - again compare sleeves and shoulder

Hmm - maybe not that obvious but you "feel" the difference when wearing the jacket

They fit like a glove!!! I was looking for measures to have an estimate since some eBay sellers were (and still are) not responding. Found a ' 68 Star Sportswear G-1 size 40 that in my opinion measures like a 42 (and has similar measures to the Dubow). I'm a slim guy so it's kind of frustrating sometimes haha.
Ps: I actually follow you on IG! (@luisespinoza.photo) Very fond of your posts.
Thanks for the input!

 

[Thomas Koehle]

They fit like a glove!!! I was looking for measures to have an estimate since some eBay sellers were (and still are) not responding. Found a ' 68 Star Sportswear G-1 size 40 that in my opinion measures like a 42 (and has similar measures to the Dubow). I'm a slim guy so it's kind of frustrating sometimes haha.
Ps: I actually follow you on IG! (@luisespinoza.photo) Very fond of your posts.
Thanks for the input!

Hi Luis,

i just checked your INSTA-account ...

Cool photos - you really got an eye for situations and people.

Let us see some fitpics of your G1.

Cheers
Thomas

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

Hi Luis,

i just checked your INSTA-account ...

Cool photos - you really got an eye for situations and people.

Let us see some fitpics of your G1.

Cheers
Thomas

It's on its way to Spain from the US. As soon as I have it, I'll show you the new acquisition Thanks Thomas!

 

[Grayland]

Im 5'10 with a 40" chest and have a Brill Bros D series from '71 size 42. Fits great.
Asking for measurements will likely not be of much help, they won't be exactly the same (for various reasons)
Main thing would be to go one size up from your chest for a trim, comfy fit.
View attachment 135381

I rarely post but have always liked the G-1 (I need an interior pocket for one thing!). My concern has always been that they appear to run long and I'm about 5'9.5. This pic gives me hope. Perfect fit.

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

I rarely post but have always liked the G-1 (I need an interior for one thing!). My concern has always been that they appear to run long and I'm about 5'9.5. This pic gives me hope. Perfect fit.

Thing is I'm a slim guy so I wasn't comfortable in it. But I can tell you this: if you can, ask for a custom size if buying from , let's say, Five Star. 25"-25.2" (back length and sleeves)for our height is perfect.
Now, (in my experience) getting a stock jacket (vintage in this case), perfect shoulder and chest fit, normally implies short length (back and sleeve), and I don't want to go around looking like I'm wearing a teen size garment.

 

[navairfan]

Hello guys! This is my first thread on VLJ.
I want to buy a 70's G-1, most likely a Brill Bros, but I dont know which size to pick. I am a chest 40 but here I go:
I recently got a FS Leather jacket but find it too baggy (I'm even selling it). Measures are as follows:

Chest: 21.5in
Shoulders: 18.5in (looks like I'm wearing shoulder pads)
Back lenth: 25 in (i'll need an extra 0.2in)
sleeves (from shoulder seam to end of knitting): 25 in (same as back length)
waistband: 17.3 in
belly: 21in (maybe needs 1-1.5in less)

I am 5'9" (1.75m), 161 Lbs (73Kg)

Now, I have various jackets that with similar measures fit well but don't feel baggy. So, I dont know if a size 40 will be too short/snug and a 42 too wide on the shoulders and chest.

If anyone can provide measures (and/or pictures of them) and advice I'll be grateful for life. Thank you, everybody!

Hi - I'm very close to your size (an inch shorter, a few pounds heavier) and have a 1970 Star Sportswear and 1971 Brill Bros. G-1, both size 42, and they fit me perfectly. Based on your info, I think a size 42 would be about right.

 

[The.Analog.Ronin]

Hi - I'm very close to your size (an inch shorter, a few pounds heavier) and have a 1970 Star Sportswear and 1971 Brill Bros. G-1, both size 42, and they fit me perfectly. Based on your info, I think a size 42 would be about right.

Finally received a Star Sportswear in size 40, Everything is perfect, just how I wanted. Thank you for the advice!