A-1 Leather Jackets

[2jakes]

Recently saw the movie "The Flying Fleet" (1929) TCM.
All the cadets & pilots are wearing the A-1 jacket which became
standard by the Army in 1927.
All the jackets appear rather form fitting like a sweater & soft like
kid glove leather. Were these originals made of lambskin or capeskin ? Both ?
Of the few I've seen advertised today , like Lost World , for example,
they appear to be rather stiff. Some would say that it takes time to break in,
I've read that Goodwear comes close to the original, but I believe that the
leather is not available for now.
Does anyone have a repo A-1 that looks & feels like the ones from way back ?
Or was there a break-in period ?
I'm basing this on the idea that this movie came out 2 years after the Army made
the A-1 standard issue. And the jackets appear new but soft. Not to be mistaken for the
patina or grain that leather develops after a certain amount of wear & years.
Obviously , I'm no expert & what I'm asking may not make sense, so I turn to you
fellow members who might set me straight or provide some knowledge, Thanks !

 

[Persimmon]

Recently saw the movie "The Flying Fleet" (1929) TCM.
All the cadets & pilots are wearing the A-1 jacket which became
standard by the Army in 1927.
All the jackets appear rather form fitting like a sweater & soft like
kid glove leather. Were these originals made of lambskin or capeskin ? Both ?
Of the few I've seen advertised today , like Lost World , for example,
they appear to be rather stiff. Some would say that it takes time to break in,
I've read that Goodwear comes close to the original, but I believe that the
leather is not available for now.
Does anyone have a repo A-1 that looks & feels like the ones from way back ?
Or was there a break-in period ?
I'm basing this on the idea that this movie came out 2 years after the Army made
the A-1 standard issue. And the jackets appear new but soft. Not to be mistaken for the
patina or grain that leather develops after a certain amount of wear & years.
Obviously , I'm no expert & what I'm asking may not make sense, so I turn to you
fellow members who might set me straight or provide some knowledge, Thanks !

I personally think the Eastman A1 in Capeskin is the best A1 Repro out there.

Compare the Eastman to the original it copied and I think you will see it is a strong representation.
Capeskin original and Capeskin Repro.

I do believe mine is heading to that stage of beginning to look and feel like an original.
They are very comfotable to wear, almost like a waistcoat and yet are surprising robust so you can wear it well

 

[2jakes]

Alan;
If I was to edit your pic to sepia tone….I believe that it would look like 1927 ! What a great looking
jacket! In ordering the size of the A-1 from Eastman.
Did you have to make adjustments on your size ? I mean , I have read where sometimes you add so much
to the sleeves or length ? Or did you submit your actual measurements & the fitting was right for you ?
Joe

 

[Persimmon]

Alan;
If I was to edit your pic to sepia tone….I believe that it would look like 1927 ! What a great looking
jacket! In ordering the size of the A-1 from Eastman.
Did you have to make adjustments on your size ? I mean , I have read where sometimes you add so much
to the sleeves or length ? Or did you submit your actual measurements & the fitting was right for you ?
Joe

Joe,
Eastman work by chest size so once that's been decided its a question of regular, long or short.
The extra/less usually is about an inch.

I had a standard jacket sent to me and I asked for a short size (one inch off the length) which was done.
I asked for half an inch off the sleeves to standard.
Getting a trial jacket is perhaps not so easy given your location.

Eastman is not like Goodwear where John will custom the jacket exactly so bear that in mind. Still the wait is considerably less !!

Would be happy to see the Sepia picture made up.

 

[Marv]

Having seen Alan's A1 in the flesh so to speak, it is a good as he says, a truly magnificent jacket.

Wasn't really a big fan of the A1 in the past but since seeing Alan's close up, it has been on my radar for a possible future addition to my wardrobe.

As Alan states, Eastman do make an excellent A1 repro......

 

[johnwayne]

Hey Joe
as you are Stateside you might wanna look up a fellow VLJ member Mark (fishmeok), he personally makes jackets under the trade name of Superior Flight Apparel and can be found at http://superiorjackets.com/?page_id=53 - this page should take you direct to his A1 page. By chance he and I appear to be the same size and he had some capeskin around the time I was looking - he made mine as a USAAF version with low pockets but you'll see on his site pics of the Navy version with higher pockets and differing flap shape. I keep meaning to post pics here when I get the the hang of how to do it but Mark charged me a really fair price too. Not sure how busy he is but he's worth considering!

One point of note re A1's - Mark and John Chapman at GW opt for raw seam edges on the sleeves - Eastman's are a 'rolled over' smoother seam, much like A2's - I understand from the late departed and much missed 'Deeb' that there was no definitive and I gather both makers worked to original patterns so prove that point. A subjective minor consideration when thinking of buying!!

Cheers
Wayne

 

[Dr H]

Hi Joe

Steve Salob (BSeal) has owned about as many A-1s as I've seen a body accommodate and so he has a unique perspective on this contract. John (CBI) and John Lever have also had both GW and ELC examples. It might be worth speaking with those Members.

Personally, I've had three ELC A-1s and a couple of capeskin GW A-1s (I currently have an ELC A-1 in a 44 and an older GW A-1 in a 46). The ELC is my beater jacket - I wear it everywhere at the moment and in rain/shine/snow. It's getting increasingly wrinkled and crumpled and bearing small scars, mild scratches and slight differences in colour - as the sun gets to it. The capeskin on the older GW is significantly thicker, but still lightweight and makes a better cooler weather jacket (I can actually believe the latter could be used as a flight jacket in an open cockpit).

As Wayne says, the ELC pattern is based on an original that Gary Eastman has in his possession (there are a couple of minor tweaks that I'd have asked for if I were commissioning one - the waistband is a bit narrow on the repro, the pocket positions aren't 100% (but size is perfect for an iPhone) and the pocket spacing collar profile isn't quite right (bit narrow), but it's a great jacket nonetheless. I like the rolled seams for a dressier look (compared with the more homespun GW), but the jacket really only comes into its own when it has picked up a few scratches.

Both John Chapman and Mark have based their designs on detailed images rather than a pattern in hand, but both produce some great designs; I tried to pick up one of Mark's older USAAF A-1s a while back but it didn't work out (I'm not so keen on the naval version with the high pockets). I believe that JC based his initial design (and mine) on the Suit Up example (pp. 198-199) with the raw, triple stitched seams and three-piece sleeve, but has since added some subtle twists with pocket size/position/pocket flap/sleeve profile. CBI's light horsehide A-1 is a lovely looking jacket even in the 'wrong' hide. The drape is all important with this jacket - as Alan says, think waistcoat/light sweater/jerkin rather than heavier A-2. It is more form fitting - the sleeves are much narrower at the forearm and so it works better with a T shirt/light shirt underneath. The shoulders also sit more naturally without epaulettes.

I'm not so keen on the look of the Lost Worlds A-1 (and many of the others out there in heavier hides as the drape is entirely wrong) but it has its advocates.

Either way, go for an A-1 you won't regret it...

Cheers

Ian

 

[2jakes]

To All You Mates From UK,
Thanks for the "Ace" info !
Cheerio,
Joe

 

[Atticus]

Ian's analysis above is spot-on. I would only add that the A-1 is a great choice for a repro flight jacket because so few people have A-1s. On the other hand, everybody and his cat seems to wear some version of the A-2. The A-1 looks like an old military flight jacket, but it's just far enough off of the A-2 design to have a unique, 1930's appearance...even to non-jacket heads.

Here's my (early-ish) Goodwear. Capeskin with triple-sewn, raw-edge seams. Low pockets and three-piece sleeves. This photo was taken when the jacket was only a week old. It is now four years old and has much more character.

AF

 

[2jakes]

It's an A-1 !
It's by Good Wear !
Now that is doubly "rare",
Congratulations !

 

[Dr H]

Here's my (early-ish) Goodwear. Capeskin with triple-sewn, raw-edge seams. Low pockets and three-piece sleeves. This photo was taken when the jacket was only a week old. It is now four years old and has much more character.

AF

Come on Geoff, let's see that GW with a few more miles on the clock
I'm keen to see how the colour has varied over the years...
Will post my GW A-1 in time (I need to get the sleeves shortened a tad first), but might take the opportunity of the good weather to get some images this afternoon.
Cheers
Ian

 

[Atticus]

Come on Geoff, let's see that GW with a few more miles on the clock
I'm keen to see how the colour has varied over the years...

The jacket is looking great nowadays but I damn sure don't. Ain't that the thing? Leather jackets look much better with age. Rotund Rebels, not so much. I'll have to snap photos of the jacket without my fat self there to spoil the picture.

AF

 

[Dr H]

A quick follow up to illustrate - better images/comparison to follow in time.

Increasingly salty ELC A-1 (chocolate coloured), 'new/barely worn' GW A-1 (mottled hide) from 2008.

Not ideal conditions - comparatively warm (21 C) and bright sunlight, but you get the picture to see the detail differences.

Cheers

Ian

 

[John Lever]

As Ian said I have had A-1's from Lost worlds, Eastman, Aero, Buzz Ricksons, GW and an unknown maker goatskin version.
If you need one in the next couple of weeks go for the Eastman but if you are in no hurry, the GW has better knits though more expensive. The very thick skin versions from Lost worlds and Buzz Ricksons just don't work. The leather is too thick for the pattern and looks wrong.
I actually prefer the leather cuff collar and waist civi versions, but it's still a favourite for me.

 

[Persimmon]

Ian,
Good comparision shot sequence.
Now if you going to have a go at Geoff for no pictures of him wearing his A1

Where are you in those shots. !!

We need to see these beauties being worn gents

 

[Dr H]

:lol:
Alan, I have the same ailment as Geoff...
When I've had the sleeve work done on the GW I'll get my eldest son to take some photos.
I'm seriously considering asking CBI to paint the GW for me too (something on the chest, although I probably wouldn't go for any art on the back/shoulders).

Nice touch with the sepia...

 

[Persimmon]

Our new Forum member Joe emailed me his intrepretation of my A1 using the magic from hisd computer

Thanks Joe

 

[John Lever]

Buzz

GW

GW

ELC

 

[2jakes]

John
The ELC appears to be the closest to pay homage to the A-1's of yesteryears in that
of the form fitting yet soft almost like a sweater style that I see in vintage photos of those
jackets. Not to imply that the A-1 is better then the A-2 , it's just has a different character .
I'm fortunate that my physique still allows me to wear this unique style.
Thanks for the display of your fine collection.

Cheers,
JG

 

[Dr H]

This is the version that the GW is based on.