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W&G Restoration

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Wanted to share with the Forum my latest vintage jacket restoration. It is a Large size (no size label) Willis & Geiger M-422A from the 290 contract. Although well worn and pretty much a basket case, this jacket still had plenty of potential.

To bring this jacket back to life it’s cuffs (the original waist band remains) , lining, mouton and zipper changed out. In addition, it's restoration also required some extensive stitch and dye work.

Here are some pix of those results.



This jacket was originally a very dark brown.





In doing this restoration work I paid special attention to detail. All work in which can be seen with leather on both sides was done with the double needle stitching technique. This next picture of the jacket's collar and zipper top sitching is a good example



All others areas with the machine.





In almost all cases and whether using hand or machine stitch, the original stitch line was followed. A good example of following that original stitch line can seen here.





These Willis and Geiger M-422A jackets are quite unusual. Being War time produced many anomalies can be found in their construction. But & in my mind, this fact only adds to their appeal. In most all cases, the color, type and placement of the hides used to construct these jackets vary greatly from one jacket to the other. As a result and unlike most later made USN jackets, no two of these M-422 style jackets really look exactly alike. In my opinion, this only adds to their appeal.

The only real drawback I can find with these jackets is with regards to the thread used to stitch these jackets together. Likewise, the thread on this particular jacket was quite thin or better suited for a lighter weight garment. Combine the marginal size of the thread with age, the fact that it is 100% cotton and that spells trouble. So I took it upon myself to change out most all this jackets structural stitches both inside and out.

Again and after many hours of painstaking labor, most all stitches were replaced in their original holes.


Enjoy!

Cheers, Dave
 

bazelot

Well-Known Member
Fantastic work Dave, I don't think anyone could have done better. I think I want the jacket back now :)
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Roughwear said:
Wow! Excellent work Dave. The jacket looks amazing now. How long did the restoration take?

Hi Andrew,

Thanks Andrew!

Besides sourcing all the needed materials, it took many weeks to complete that jacket. The jacket does not even begin to resemble what it looked like when I originally got it.


Cheers, Dave
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Silver Surfer said:
as i said before, dave, it is impossible to tell that any work was done.. a-frignn-mazing!

Hi SS,

I appreciate that :)

This one was a real good Winter time project.

Cheers, Dave
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
bazelot said:
Did you stitch the knits by hand or was it machine done?

Hi Tom,

I darned the knits by hand. However, they were attached to the body of the jacket via machine.

Cheers, Dave
 

NW Carver

Active Member
Thats excellent work! :D I have 2 W&G M442a's - one was imaculate and hardly worn, the other a basket case with a hole in the top back shoulder...got it repaired by Aero Leather (when they were still doing that) and although rather battered, with an ink stain on it, really looks good - the leather on these is always very supple - and out of all the M442a's and G1s that I own, the leather on these is lovely
 
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