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Need some advice on making 70s style leather jackets
- Thread starter Aykut
- Start date
Thanks Mark for the feedback!...no liner,I like it without the liner,just leather...
and yes if i didn't luck out with my industrial who knows what would've happened...the cool thing about the machine is it has a big hand wheel so it's very easy to handcrank it..no way i could have stitched those inlays,appliques with the motor...that machine is perfect for me.
and yes if i didn't luck out with my industrial who knows what would've happened...the cool thing about the machine is it has a big hand wheel so it's very easy to handcrank it..no way i could have stitched those inlays,appliques with the motor...that machine is perfect for me.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Aykut said:Just finished this..took about 3 days of work,still have a long way to go but it was good practice..All the best..Aykut
HI Aykut nice jacket ,this is your first on the new machine .I must say it looks professional well done .How do you like the thread cutters I suggested are they working out for you .Your stiching of the appliques is so much better than the East West Jacket .Good Job man only thing to make it better would be a ring zipper pull about 1" diameter like the type used in the 1970s but thats a minor detail .Im impressed, you made short of that learning curve .
All the best Jeff
Jeff,thanks!...thread cutter definitely saves time,i sent the spare one to Mark,he's sending me a spool of thread in return...after finishing this jacket i'm pretty comfortable with the machine and getting better at top stitching small detailed parts,i'm lucky that the machine has a big hand wheel,it would have been impossible to put the art on the jacket without that(80% of the work was done hand cranking the machine) ...i still can't believe, 3 months ago i would have never thought i could make these things,it's tons of work and frustration but there's nothing like it when you finish it, you sit down and stare at it for hours like a nerd
,you wear it people ask where did you get that,i tell them i made it,they wont believe me!...I'm just obsessed with music and rock n roll fashion i don't think i could have sat down and make these things if it wasn't for that,it's just way too much work for anyone who's not passionate about the history and art behind it ...although that jacket turned out pretty good i still have to learn a lot(custom pattern making,different collar designs,best possible fit etc),i'm pretty confident now though,i have millions of ideas.I'm gonna try to finish one jacket per week,this is just the beginning, i'll update when i have new projects..Thank you once again for your time...You and Mark has been a great help,this forum is the best of it's kind..Aykut
,you wear it people ask where did you get that,i tell them i made it,they wont believe me!...I'm just obsessed with music and rock n roll fashion i don't think i could have sat down and make these things if it wasn't for that,it's just way too much work for anyone who's not passionate about the history and art behind it ...although that jacket turned out pretty good i still have to learn a lot(custom pattern making,different collar designs,best possible fit etc),i'm pretty confident now though,i have millions of ideas.I'm gonna try to finish one jacket per week,this is just the beginning, i'll update when i have new projects..Thank you once again for your time...You and Mark has been a great help,this forum is the best of it's kind..Aykut
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi Aykut re the appliques getting the stiching to look real sharp here are some tips I have developed
I use a pencil with color from an artist store made by Schwan Stabilo#8052 comes in many colors for paper, glass ,plastic ,metal and it will rub off easily and is not permanent
sharpen the pencil with a razor or knife .Hold the pencil as shown in photo and using the fore finger as the guide from the edge applique to the pencil position draw around the applique ,also carving out on the pencil side where your finger rests will bring the pencil point closer to the edge of the applique .
You have your applique with a line to guide you to where the outer edge of the applique is as this is usually under the foot .Next you will have to use your kenmore cut down the presser foot front profile and radius underneath so you can see the needle clearly both forwards and backwards sewing( no guessing anymore ) . To be able to rotate the leather while the foot is down adjust pressure on the foot and use baby powder to lubricate top surface only now you will be able to spin the leather 360 degrees
Now you will have to practise with the pencil and the fore finger to develop this skill ,by angleling the pencil it will bring the line closer to the edge of the applique .You can then use a thread that will compliment the work and then be part of the design similar to the work on a cowboy boot upper by stiching either side of the white line .Rather than trying to make the thread invisable make it part of your design.I am not crtisizing your work you are doing great I just want your work to be better than anyone elses out there. This pencil lining of the applique will overall give you a more pleasing affect to the overall apearance of the jacket with regards to the stiching .I have struggled my self to get the stiches in the place where they should be ,by using the line you will be right on target rather than guessing where the edge of the applique is because you cannot see it under the presser foot .I suggested the Kenmore you have because I know that this cannot be easy with a walking foot machine ,I can make up a foot for you like mine if you need me to .I think you would be happier doing the applique work on the Kenmore with a handle on the main wheel and a ground down presser foot ,with the electric motor removed .Even though people cannot make jackets like you can their eye will pick up irregularities in the stich position .Take a look at some of the patches I have posted in the patch forum and look at the stiches and position ,these patches are only 5" in diameter and the shoulder patches are 3" on the outside .Once you master this you will be able to take on the most difficult designs forms and images and the stiching will become pinstriping to the design or form you are applying .I am no expert by no means but I consider my self a detail person ,sort of like a guy who goes to a museum or art gallery and can appreciate good work but not necessarily able to do it but it gives me somthing to strive towards .The Schwan pencils can be bought at any artists stores are about $1.20 come in about 50 colors .
All the best Jeff
I use a pencil with color from an artist store made by Schwan Stabilo#8052 comes in many colors for paper, glass ,plastic ,metal and it will rub off easily and is not permanent
sharpen the pencil with a razor or knife .Hold the pencil as shown in photo and using the fore finger as the guide from the edge applique to the pencil position draw around the applique ,also carving out on the pencil side where your finger rests will bring the pencil point closer to the edge of the applique .
You have your applique with a line to guide you to where the outer edge of the applique is as this is usually under the foot .Next you will have to use your kenmore cut down the presser foot front profile and radius underneath so you can see the needle clearly both forwards and backwards sewing( no guessing anymore ) . To be able to rotate the leather while the foot is down adjust pressure on the foot and use baby powder to lubricate top surface only now you will be able to spin the leather 360 degrees
Now you will have to practise with the pencil and the fore finger to develop this skill ,by angleling the pencil it will bring the line closer to the edge of the applique .You can then use a thread that will compliment the work and then be part of the design similar to the work on a cowboy boot upper by stiching either side of the white line .Rather than trying to make the thread invisable make it part of your design.I am not crtisizing your work you are doing great I just want your work to be better than anyone elses out there. This pencil lining of the applique will overall give you a more pleasing affect to the overall apearance of the jacket with regards to the stiching .I have struggled my self to get the stiches in the place where they should be ,by using the line you will be right on target rather than guessing where the edge of the applique is because you cannot see it under the presser foot .I suggested the Kenmore you have because I know that this cannot be easy with a walking foot machine ,I can make up a foot for you like mine if you need me to .I think you would be happier doing the applique work on the Kenmore with a handle on the main wheel and a ground down presser foot ,with the electric motor removed .Even though people cannot make jackets like you can their eye will pick up irregularities in the stich position .Take a look at some of the patches I have posted in the patch forum and look at the stiches and position ,these patches are only 5" in diameter and the shoulder patches are 3" on the outside .Once you master this you will be able to take on the most difficult designs forms and images and the stiching will become pinstriping to the design or form you are applying .I am no expert by no means but I consider my self a detail person ,sort of like a guy who goes to a museum or art gallery and can appreciate good work but not necessarily able to do it but it gives me somthing to strive towards .The Schwan pencils can be bought at any artists stores are about $1.20 come in about 50 colors .
All the best Jeff
Jeff,thanks for your time for putting that together..i was thinking about getting a pencil like that,i'll get one today.I'm practicing daily, i think my applique work will get better by practice..I just finished another jacket ,I can't stop it!..it turned out rad,i messed up the zipper stitching a little(too close on one side), learning from the mistakes..this one is more of a stage/biker jacket,decorated with flashy round spots which took along time..made of heavy full grain cowhide..i'll wear this at some point when i play live again..
I need to get a smaller body form,this one is too wide,it stretches the jackets a bit.
Here's how it fits on me when worn,i'm still working on the best possible fit
..it turned out rad,i messed up the zipper stitching a little(too close on one side), learning from the mistakes..this one is more of a stage/biker jacket,decorated with flashy round spots which took along time..made of heavy full grain cowhide..i'll wear this at some point when i play live again..I need to get a smaller body form,this one is too wide,it stretches the jackets a bit.
Here's how it fits on me when worn,i'm still working on the best possible fit
A
Anonymous
Guest
COOL AYKUT WAY TO GO ,NOW YOU HAVE ME STARING LIKE A NERD ,RGDS JEFF
PS DOES YOUR GIRLFRIEND EVER SEE YOU ANYMORE :lol:
PS DOES YOUR GIRLFRIEND EVER SEE YOU ANYMORE :lol:
fishmeok
Well-Known Member
BTW Aykut I'm sending you two spools of thread tomorrow , one red and one oliveish color (6000 or so yards each). They are both Tex 60 which is a little lighter than what I use (Tex 80 or 90) but I think they will work great for the applique stuff. After 5 or 6 jackets and countless practice pieces I am about halfway through one 6000 yard spool....
I have not made much progress on my next jacket, been looking for a house instead (we are putting in an offer tomorrow).
Here's some glazed cotton I found on the web:
http://www.uticathread.com/Product.asp?intProdID=202
Thread size info:
http://www.amefird.com/worldwide_thread ... arison.htm
http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/141/
What about adding a thin silk half-lining or full lining for your shirt/jackets? I think that would make them much more comfortable during active rock and roll wear (rayon would also work as it's a "natural" synthetic and will breathe. Avoid polyester and acetate, they trap the moisture between you and your body, feels like saran wrap after a while). Many of the higher quality wool shirts have a lining across the shoulders and which I think makes a BIG difference in wearability.
Cheers
Mark
I have not made much progress on my next jacket, been looking for a house instead (we are putting in an offer tomorrow).
Here's some glazed cotton I found on the web:
http://www.uticathread.com/Product.asp?intProdID=202
Thread size info:
http://www.amefird.com/worldwide_thread ... arison.htm
http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/141/
What about adding a thin silk half-lining or full lining for your shirt/jackets? I think that would make them much more comfortable during active rock and roll wear (rayon would also work as it's a "natural" synthetic and will breathe. Avoid polyester and acetate, they trap the moisture between you and your body, feels like saran wrap after a while). Many of the higher quality wool shirts have a lining across the shoulders and which I think makes a BIG difference in wearability.
Cheers
Mark
A
Anonymous
Guest
Mark I picked up a few buttons this weekend ,I will sort through them and send you over some your way .
All the best Jeff
All the best Jeff
A
Anonymous
Guest
Aykut said:
Look for a seamstress mate :lol:
All the best Jeff
fishmeok
Well-Known Member
Hey Aykut
Damn Impressive!!!! Start working on making those in different sizes, hang out a shingle, and you just may have found yourself a career!
Now you need a good name.. how about Rockwear, or GigToggs...
Are your backs two piece or are you layering the leather? Try topstiching the arm to body seam, shoulder seams, and side body seams as well on your next one, it will give you a neat and defined look. Regular chalk will work too for drawing seam guide lines, I bought a bunch at Target for something under $2.00. There are special presser feet available that have a spring loaded blade guide to help give you a perfect 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch topstich every time. Right now I do them freehand but I ordered one to see if it helps speed things up.
I don't remember if I mentioned this, but a good book to have lying around is "Shirtmaking" by David Page Coffin- lot of good tips in there.
Oh, and don't worry about the mannequin being a little too large, by the time you hit your mid '30's it will be just right! :lol:
Right Jeff?
Cheers
Mark
Damn Impressive!!!! Start working on making those in different sizes, hang out a shingle, and you just may have found yourself a career!
Now you need a good name.. how about Rockwear, or GigToggs...
Are your backs two piece or are you layering the leather? Try topstiching the arm to body seam, shoulder seams, and side body seams as well on your next one, it will give you a neat and defined look. Regular chalk will work too for drawing seam guide lines, I bought a bunch at Target for something under $2.00. There are special presser feet available that have a spring loaded blade guide to help give you a perfect 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch topstich every time. Right now I do them freehand but I ordered one to see if it helps speed things up.
I don't remember if I mentioned this, but a good book to have lying around is "Shirtmaking" by David Page Coffin- lot of good tips in there.
Oh, and don't worry about the mannequin being a little too large, by the time you hit your mid '30's it will be just right! :lol:
Right Jeff?
Cheers
Mark
fishmeok
Well-Known Member
Aykut said:
Jesus- try a wife, a 6 month old baby, AND looking for a house on top of my day job... My wife keeps telling me that I didn't mention this obsessive-compulsive jacket thing when we were dating... I just thought it was assumed, I mean, isn't everyone like this?
Cheers
Mark
A
Anonymous
Guest
[Oh, and don't worry about the mannequin being a little too large, by the time you hit your mid '30's it will be just right! :lol:
Right Jeff?
Cheers
Mark I am 50+ and the mannequin being to large .Do this place the jacket on the mannequin take a razor and slice from the bottom of the collar rear to the hem and it should sit just fine :lol:
But your only as old as the women you feel !
All the best Jeff
ps Mark did you see the buttons on the previous paGE
Right Jeff?
Cheers
Mark I am 50+ and the mannequin being to large .Do this place the jacket on the mannequin take a razor and slice from the bottom of the collar rear to the hem and it should sit just fine :lol:
But your only as old as the women you feel !
All the best Jeff
ps Mark did you see the buttons on the previous paGE
Mark, thanks for the link to the glazed cotton thread,i'll try that...I've been layering the leather on the shoulders,i will try different patterns soon,3-4 piece top stitched body instead of just back and front 2 piece style,zipper pockets and cuffs etc..I'm gonna take a break for couple of days and start something a little easier next week,maybe like a deerskin vest or something,i'll update you guys..hope you find a good house..all the best..Aykut
Here's a new vest i just finished,i can't stop myself obviously inspired by the magical East West creations..Made of soft deer skin,i dyed the body and the leaves.Black and green is one of my favorite color combos.I know i should have decorated the leaves with stitches but after endless hours of stitching i got impatient ,future versions of this will be nicer with better stitching details..the applique work on this piece was the most challenging i have done so far...hope i'm not bugging you guys with a new post every 2 days all the best..Aykut
obviously inspired by the magical East West creations..Made of soft deer skin,i dyed the body and the leaves.Black and green is one of my favorite color combos.I know i should have decorated the leaves with stitches but after endless hours of stitching i got impatient ,future versions of this will be nicer with better stitching details..the applique work on this piece was the most challenging i have done so far...hope i'm not bugging you guys with a new post every 2 days all the best..Aykut
fishmeok
Well-Known Member
That's how this stuff is- once you start, it's hard to stop. I think my wife and I have managed to make some sort of peace with this- I've been able to spend an hour or so a night working in (relative) peace. Nothing like the feeling you get when it all comes together-
Vest looks great- your applique stuff is coming along nicely. I am finding the spring loaded topstiching foot to be a big help, gives me a nice even line along the shoulders.
Cheers
Mark
Vest looks great- your applique stuff is coming along nicely. I am finding the spring loaded topstiching foot to be a big help, gives me a nice even line along the shoulders.
Cheers
Mark
