Need some advice on making 70s style leather jackets

[Aykut]

UPDATE:CHECK THE LATER PAGES FOR MY RECENT WORK SINCE I STARTED THIS THREAD. BIG THANKS TO MARK,JEFF AND JOHN FOR ALL THEIR HELPFUL ADVICE.

My latest work.

Cream leather with gold piping (this was a very hard design) decorated with Brass round spots

Red black leather with patch pockets

Vest with detailed silhouette applique work

Black suede serpent jacket,lots of work went into this but worth it!

Black with round spots (will make more of this in different colors soon)

Also i just finished this large buffalo hide duffel bag..This is the first bag i've ever made,working on more designs.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi AYKUT I do a little sewing myself but by no means an expert but I do work with leather ,here are some tips .
(1) Go to your local thrift store and check out the 70S style leather jackets on the racks ,this will give you an idea on the weight of the leather used in that period .I think you will find it is lighter than you think or are proposing to use .You have to keep in mind the drape of the jacket and and the tight arms used in this period .To thick a leather and you will think you have a straight jacket on .
(2)Find out in the yellow pages if there is an industrial sewing machine supplier in your area ,they usually have trade in machines and have a wealth of knowledge in the machines best suited to the work you want to do .They will probably recomend a model type and manufacturer .Then you can check on ebay to see if ther price can be beaten . Try liquidation auctions of clothing manufacturers that have gone out of out of buisiness
(3) I prefer older machines because they are more rigid and use all metal parts ,modern machines use fiber and nylon parts they are cheaper to make these parts but are the weak link in the machine .Do not worry about parts for older machines as there are plenty to be had ,my machine is from 1930 it a Singer Class 78 I have no problems getting parts .
(4) I have a semi Industrial machine made by Necchi circ 1950 ,I took of the motor and fitted a handle to the main wheel to use when I make patches for A-2 jackets .The advantage of this is you can place the leather exactly where you want it before the needle threads through and you get a very precise stiching pattern in tight places .Also you do not have that sudden rush of speed when the machine takes off .The Kenmore you have can be used to do the design work on the out side of the jacket just add a handle.
( 5) Re the walking foot yes you need one! most leather is difficult to feed with regular machine feeds and believe it or not some colors of leather are more difficult to feed than others (remember you have the suede side downand the tanned side up ).I have tried all the roller feet for home type machines and they just do not work .This avenue will frustrate you and spoil your work ,you will end up with irregular stich lengths and broken needles because you are pushing the work through .
(6) Get all the info you can before you spend your money and get the machine that will work for you,get the seller to do a run off of the leather you are going to use so you know the machine is capable .Once you know the machine can do the work ,when things do not go right it be probably something you are doing wrong
(7)Get you family and friends to give you old leather jackets and take them apart ,to learn how they are contructed you can learn a lot from this ,especially how the lining is done .If you can take apart a jacket that fits you lay it out and make templates for the arms body collar out of cardboard .Contruct your own collars in the 70s style and make templates for them also.Redesign restyle the the original jacket templates to give you the desired 70s look .Remake the templates out of plywood .Now you can lay your templates over the leather and cut the arms body etc .Its a learning curve but if you stay with it and enjoy it you will get there .

All the best Jeff

 

[Aykut]

Jeff, Thank you very much for your excellent detailed response!
Just like you recommended I actually cut out a trashed jacket and draw the body and arms on thick paper before i did that denim jacket,since i go picking vintage clothes everyday i find a lot of no value jackets with holes or rips for very cheap..I've been buying them so i can recycle the zippers,hardware and use as patterns..Those big old brass Talon zippers are hard to find nowadays...I just have to get the right type of machine like you said...I do like the old Singer machines a lot but none of those usually have the walking foot...and the good industrial walking foot machines are pretty expensive...maybe i need to save up more and get one...I'm just very impatient cause it's very exciting,just making something i can wear out of scratch that looks cool..also these types of jackets i'll be making won't be lined..no lining at all, some vintage jackets from the 70s had lining but east west and similar companies rarely lined the jackets..all naked leather...looks cooler that way i think too...I think for small detailed pieces hand cranking the machine is a good idea...i have to figure out a handle for the wheel like you did...again thank you very much for the info...If anyone out there has good experience with older singer models pls let me know..Thank you all!

 

[Aykut]

Here is an other East West creation..How amazing is this!

 

[fishmeok]

Hi-
Try doing a search for my username, I've been slowly teaching myself to make A-2's and other jackets over the last year, then posting the mess as I go. I agree completely with what Jeff said (I even have a Necchi BU, though now I mainly use a '50's Viking for non-leather stuff). Some more comments:

Most flight jackets are made out of 2mm or thinner leather, goatskin or horse, and even motorcycle jackets only go up to 4-5. I would try to stay under 3mm (2.5 to 3 oz) or the jacket will not drape correctly. Look around on e-bay for a complete hide (I have bought a few from Kyson Leather with good luck) and just start practicing- leather is very different from fabric and takes some getting used to. Figure on using around 30-35 sq. feet of leather per jacket until you figure out exactly what you want.

If you are serious about this you need a full on compund feed industrial- no way around it. Older home machines like the Necchi BU, Viking C21, and Pfaff 130 can be made to sew 2 or 3 layers but the big problem is feeding the material. You will end up beating your head against the wall in pure frustration if you don't have the right machine. And I mean this literally...

I started out with a Singer 78-3, a needle feed machine (compound feed means both needle feed AND feed dogs) which is perfect to learn on. It's is a 1930's vintage industrial originally used in a treadle so it spins with very little resistance and has a huge handwheel, great for going slow and carefully as you get a feel for how leather sews and build some skills. This weekend I upgraded to a Singer 211G465 a full compound feed mother of a machine. Works great and sews anything, but not made to turn much by hand. Look around on e-bay, stop by the industrial S.M. stores and try a few out. Beware anything that says "Industrial Leather Machine!!!" That does not have a table and clutch motor. Lots of people on e-bay especially selling home machines as industrials. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Also check out TheFedoraLounge.com, another great list for vintage types

Other than that- practice practice practice......
Cheers
Mark

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut here is some more info on converting your machine into a manual crank .I used a bracket commonly used in supermarkets on slot boards to hang blister pack items .This worked well for me ,first I cut off the welded rod and shortened the length .There is a screw on this bracket that is spot welded on this I left and it does the driving of the wheel and a second screw holds the bracket on the wheel ,to remove you only have one screw to fuss with if you want to go back to the motor. The handle is a small file handle cut down and drilled with a clearance hole so it rotates over the bolt fixed to the bracket .I then got a bolt long enough threaded along its entire length 1/4" 20 tpi ,the bolt was locked on the bracket and super glue was set into the threads before tightening the nut .The handle was slid over the bolt and a nut was wound down until the handle would not rotate ,then superglue was put on the threads and the nut was backed of one turn (now the handle will rotate ).This was left to dry ,I then offered up the handle and bent it so it would sit on the wheel and the turn handle was at 90 degrees to the wheel .Masking tape was applied to the handwheel bracket offered up and marked where the drive screw was .I drilled the wheel with a 3.8mm hole clearance re-offered the bracket and marked for the threaded hole .This was driled and tapped use lube because cast iron tends to grab ,Then fitted all the parts and started sewing .A little trick to keep the screw in the wheel in place is used nail polish on the threads ,it comes with a brush in the lid and will lock the screw in place but can be removed if needed ,sort of a cheap screwlock .You can find this at any dollar store ,get a color so you can see it on the threads .I have some picture of the assembly of the arm on and off the machine and also some examples of close stiching on some of my patches just to give you an idea of what can be achieved .I think it is easier to do this modification on a machine than it is to wrtite it .Mark at fishmeok is miles ahead of me with using leather and I think his info on making jackets is an inspiration to us all please read his postings .Good luck with your designs you sound like you have a million things in your head you want to try .

ALL THE BEST JEFF

 

[Aykut]

Mark,Thanks a lot man..I've actually checked out your topics about the jackets you've made..I think they look great..You're right it takes a lot of dedication,practice which i'm ready but i just need the basic stuff figured out...Your reply answers a lot of my questions..I think i will go with 3oz leather..Thanks for the link to the ebay store too..I'll pm you if have any questions you might know...Thanks again for all the great info!..Best..Aykut

 

[Aykut]

Jeff,I think i'm gonna do that modification to my old Kenmore so for small detailed applique pieces i can still use that machine with hand cranking it..go as slow as want..I just need to find a good strong compound feed machine now for the actual body of the jackets.I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this...You guys already been a great help..I do have tons of creative designs in my head just can't wait to bring these to life..Thanks!

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut your very welcome ,which state are you in .In case I come across a machine cheap .Rgds Jeff .

 

[Aykut]

Seattle,WA...If you spot anything on ebay too pls let me know..Thanks

 

[fishmeok]

Keep an eye on craigslist, that's where I found my first machine. I'd buy local so you can try it out before you buy. (I'm putting the 78-3 up for sale this week on craigslist and e-bay).

Jeff, that's a neat mod to the BU, and I like the patches. I have never tried double needle sewing. Necchi BU's are great, I love mine, but the Viking is a free arm machine with a high and low gear and a folding table, easier for me to use.
Cheers
Mark

My BU

Singer 78-3- check out the big hand wheel. The base is 18.5" X 7", fairly standard for an industrial.

Needle Feed

The new Singer 211G465, big mother of a machine (relatively new, it's from the late '60's or so- still about 30 years newer than the 78-3). The base is the same size as the 78-3 and the pivot mounts are in the same positions, so I am able to use the table and motor I bought with the 78, saved me some money. The 211 has feed dogs and needle feed. Note how much smaller the hand wheel is. This machine has a lot of gears and arms inside so it does not spin freely like the 78 will. The 78 will rotate several turns on it's own with a hand spin of the wheel, very little resistance.

 

[Aykut]

Mark, I found this machine yesterday on Craigslist, Singer Model 111W 153 with table and motor..the person was asking $300 i offered $175 and they said come and pick it up!...You think that's a good deal for this....they said it's serviced couple of years ago...From what i found online this is a Single needle, lock stitch, walking foot and compound feed machine i don't think it has reverse though how would i use it without reverse?How to secure the stitching? pls let me know...Thank you!

Here's the link: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/for/994120451.html

 

[fishmeok]

Mark, I found this machine yesterday on Craigslist, Singer Model 111W 153 with table and motor..the person was asking $300 i offered $175 and they said come and pick it up!...You think that's a good deal for this....they said it's serviced couple of years ago...From what i found online this is a Single needle, lock stitch, walking foot and compound feed machine i don't think it has reverse though how would i use it without reverse?How to secure the stitching? pls let me know...Thank you!

Here's the link: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/for/994120451.html

Buy it!!!!!!! Holy crap that's a steal....
here's the manual
http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instr ... 111W155-_E

I don't have reverse either, neither did the people who made these jackets before the late '60's. Either back up one stitch by hand, or start 90 degrees from your sewing direction. Only bad thing about that 153 is that it only has 3/8" working presser lift, but you will be able to get around that.
$150, DAMN I wish that was here...
Cheers
Mark

 

[Aykut]

Ok, Mark..i'm emailing her right now to get the machine...I'll take photos when i get it..Thanks for all the help man!

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut welcome to the club ,goooooood deal on the 111 w .That did not take long .

All the best Jeff .

 

[Aykut]

I know i got lucky,hopefully there are no problems with the machine,I'm picking it up in couple of days...You and Mark have have been a great help!Thanks for your time!..can't wait to use the machine..

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut do not worry about the machine ,have you ever noticed in dry cleaners and tailor shops the machine are old the paint is worn off (and have never been serviced for 20 years),try buying one off the owner he will never let it go for any money .The reason why there like the energizer bunnies they keep on going and going .They are designed, machined, and built that today you could never make a machine like them and make a profit selling them .The bodies of the new machines are pressure diecast alumium the old ones are cast iron cast iron does not flex .The internals are hardened gears shafts you cant break them you can only stall the machine ,the new ones strip the gears .Basically the old machines were over engineered and made twice as strong as they need to be .The new ones are made light for cheaper shipping and make money for the dealer with repairs.ALL YOUR SINGER EXPECTS FROM YOU IS OIL AND HARD WORK ,you can pm anytime with questions if you need help .Your machine is ready to take the ideas from your mind and make them a reality ( the needle is your brush and your leather is the canvas make a masterpeice ).

All the best Jeff

 

[Aykut]

Jeff,I've been reading a lot about these older machines lately and that's what everyone says..they are built to last..plus it just feels good to have a vintage machine to re-create something vintage...I'm sure some of the new Juki's are great but they cost a lot...I might need to invest on a servo motor maybe for slow speed control,any recommendations where to get one?..I wonder how slow this machine can go..we'll see when i get it...I'll update you guys with the machine and what i can do with it...you're totally right about the artistry of it..my goal is to create wearable art pieces,one of a kind and made to last..first I'm gonna have to learn how to make a jacket that fits right of course

 

[fishmeok]

Hold off on the servo motor until you have gotten comfortable with the machine. An old trick is to put a piece of foam or a nerf ball under the pedal to help with the feel of the control. Clutch motors work great with a little practice and I have heard very mixed reviews about the servo motors.

Here is more info on the 111 from an airforce manual- pages of stuff (the consew 225 is the same machine, even Juki made a version of the 111 called the 562).

http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14 ... 217_54.htm

Cheers
Mark

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut now you need the following ,Needles for your machine specially made for working on leather .A good lamp that can be pointed at the needle ,a magnet with a straight side to use as a seam guide .The thread type Mark can help you and tell you what you need .You will also need extra bobbins so you can have different colors ready .Lastly you need a needle threader much faster than doing it by eye.The oil I use is called Tri flow it has teflon in it and stays where you put it .Its also real thin oil with low viscosity lubes parts but does not create stiction or drag to slow the machine down it great stuff .

All the best Jeff

Hold off on the servo motor ,get used to the machine create your own work style you may not need it .