My first jacket- look what I made! just like a big boy...

[asiamiles]

Quite incredible what you're achieving, but why make the pocket flap too small (or the pocket too wide) as that's something that just jumps out as being not quite correct?

 

[fishmeok]

Well, if you look at many period coats, the pocket flaps and pockets don't always line up quite perfectly, especially on the large run mass produced jackets. There was a tremendous amount of variation depending on who was making it, how skilled they were, if they had a hangover, etc. I'm trying to duplicate the "feel" of these jackets by carefully offsetting the pocket flaps....

NAAH, it's just a mistake , After all, this IS only the second one I've tried to make. On the last jacket I had the reverse problem. Probably overcompensated a bit on this one as a result, but the pocket shape and stitching are too good on this jacket to make new pockets. Besides, on leather once it's sewn that's it- no Mulligans available.

MAN you guys are tough...
Cheers
Mark

 

[Bluebottle]

I applaud your attention to detail on that pocket Mark Although after seeing this civvie jacket I think you held back too much...

Pocket details. Odd the pocket flap is 1/4 inch oversize! (The other side flap is fine)

Keep up the good work I've dabbled with making stuff with my Nan's old sewing machine, but never anything this ambitious. Truely inspiring!

 

[asiamiles]

NAAH, it's just a mistake , After all, this IS only the second one I've tried to make. On the last jacket I had the reverse problem. Probably overcompensated a bit on this one as a result,

I think many originals had slightly over-sized flaps, so I wouldn't have seen a problem with it...that undersized one though kinda calls attention to itself. Still, live and learn, practice makes perfect, and all that.

 

[fishmeok]

Jacket #2 is completed

Here's the second one- I can't get any more pics up now because stupid photobucket will not let me upload. I'll post more later. It worked out pretty well, I think.
Cheers
Mark

 

[deeb7]

Re: Jacket #2 is completed

- I can't get any more pics up now because stupid photobucket will not let me upload.

Off topic .... but stupid Photobucket is getting slower to use, if it will work at all.

I'm blaming the dating ads, and all that shockwave crap that messes with my old IBM. It's getting like eBay, I have to plan what I want to do, and get out again before I have to re-boot.

 

[asiamiles]

Indeed, while eBay has introduced many useful new features over the years, it also seems to feel it necessary to constantly make changes and add totally unneeded and often downright annoying features. Of course, nothing compares to them withdrawing the seller's ability to post neg feedback; this accompanied by Paypal's anti-seller stand means now buyers simply ignore whatever Terms & Conditions the seller has stated (and by bidding they have agreed to) and just open Paypal disputes whenever the feeling takes them...latest instances include an item the buyer didn't pay for insurance on getting damaged (I actually offered to try to claim compensation for him but he just chose to open a dispute, something that seems to have backfired on him), and someone paying for surface shipping, which takes 2~3 months, complaining he hadn't received his stuff a week later. But is there a possible solution?

Rather than giving one's Paypal address when making the listing leave the space blank. Thus the buyer must wait until they receive a Paypal invoice before they can pay. Then send them an invoice for either Goods (non-eBay)* or a Service, thus making the payment totally independent of the eBay transaction. I should add that I have no problem with the vast majority of buyers but it only takes one or two for you to have to start rethinking things.

*I'm not sure if Paypal offers the same sort of "protection" for buyers for non-eBay goods at it does for eBay goods...anyone know?

 

[MikeyB-17]

Fantastic job, Mark! Really nice leather, and a damn fine job of stitching too! You going to keep going?

 

[Roughwear]

Mark i have been watching the progress of both your jackets and have to say I'm very impressed. Having dabbled a bit with sewing machines myself I know how difficult it is to get the stitches the correct length, let alone produce a wearable jacket as you have done. Your civi jacket looks fantastic and i am looking forward to seeing your next jacket.

 

[fishmeok]

Thanks guys- yes, I'm going to keep on with this. I am going to make a couple more of these, maybe try one in a size 40 to get the feel for smaller jackets. I have a trashed size 46 M422A in the closet I am going to use as a pattern for an ANJ-3 type jacket, plus make myself a Dubow, etc. I have already planned my jacket output for the next year or so...

This is going to take a while though, have a new baby arriving on or around Oct 7.
Here's some more pics:

 

[Chandler]

Have to say that the jacket looks nice, especially (or more so) considering that you knocked it out on your own.

But I notice that even with your own measuring, cutting and stitching -- there's still trouble with sleeve tunneling. Are sleeves just the most difficult part of a jacket to estimate properly?

Chandler

 

[fishmeok]

If you look at the pics with the jacket zipped up most of the tunneling disappears, and the rest is due to brand-new knits which are tight on the wrist (I kept having to pull them down when I was wearing it) and a heavier and stiffer leather than most A-2's are made from. Once the jacket breaks in and the sleeves crease up and the knits wear in a bit I think it will be just right. The length worked out where I wanted it to- when I move around the arms don't bind or the cuffs pull up excessivly on my fore-arms. I think a lot of people forget to take into account what the leather is going to do as it ages- sleeves WILL shorten up as the leather creases (if it's made out of good leather, anway) and the shoulders, back, etc will mold to the demands put on them.

"knocked it out..." The thing took me almost three weeks to get done
Cheers
Mark

 

[Chandler]

"knocked it out..." The thing took me almost three weeks to get done

Heh -- didn't mean that in any reference to speed.

It'll be interesting to see the progress of the break-in with an eye on the cuffs, 'cause this zipped view still looks tunneled to me:

Chandler.

 

[T-Bolt]

I personally, would rather have my sleeves a bit too long than a bit too short, any day. Short sleeves will drive you nuts because you notice them all the time.

Longer sleeves can be dealt with to resolve the problem.

1). You can let the sleeves naturally crease which will shorten them.

2). You can do a warm/hot water treatment on the sleeves to speed up the creasing/shortening process.
I have done this myself on an Aero 15142-P and had excellent results.

3). You can (yourself or someone else) remove the knit cuffs and actually shorten the sleeve itself.


Ted

 

[T-Bolt]

I forgot to add in my earlier post.......congratulations on your latest jacket endeavor, Mark! I think it looks VERY nice.


Ted

 

[Chandler]

3). You can (yourself or someone else) remove the knit cuffs and actually shorten the sleeve itself.

I've had this done, but I guess I brought it up because of the hands-on aspect of making this jacket. I just wondered if Mark had discovered something about tailoring sleeves in his creation process. Seems like I see a lot of tunneling on repros and I doubt that "waiting for creasing" was part of any original design to an A-2.

OTOH, I have seen originals in vintage pics where there is some tunneling -- I suppose it's just back to everyone being built a little different, whether or not we're all 44s.

Chandler

 

[fishmeok]

Actually, I meant this one:

In my experience the jacket sleeves will lose about .5-1 inch depending on the leather, which makes this one just right for me- but I am a tall WWII size (17X35 in my shirt) and like to have a little more length in the sleeve. The tunneling issue is all about arm length vs sleeve length, back in the day you wore what was thrown at you- now we fit the sleeve to the arm. Best way to do this is what Chapman does, have you find a jacket that fits exactly right and measure the sleeves, or measure your arm and figure out where you want the cuff to end. Making a sleeve shorter is the easiest thing to alter on an A-2, and it can be done in a half hour or less for both sides. With the square, trim cut of a period 40's jacket you can almost always get the length right the first try because the shoulders are so sharp and the armholes relatively high. On this jacket the actual shoulder (epalet) length is 7" and the arm pretty much drops straight off the edge of that.

To me it's all about the difference between a tailored jacket and an off the rack- and using a period pattern that has not been "updated" to fit the modern guy. For $1200 (or whatever) I'd want the period, bespoke jacket ("bespoke" means "custom tailored", right? At least I think that's what it means ).

I hope this answered your question- I get a little windy sometimes.
Cheers
Mark

 

[Chandler]

Actually, I meant this one:

C'mon man, you don't ever really wear your jackets zipped that high... do you?

In my experience the jacket sleeves will lose about .5-1 inch depending on the leather,

So far, I haven't experienced that on a goat, HH, or steer jacket.

Making a sleeve shorter is the easiest thing to alter on an A-2, and it can be done in a half hour or less for both sides.

Might be technically easy, but there's a loss of taper that is often the price to pay (as you said, back to custom tailored).

Chandler

 

[T-Bolt]

In my experience the jacket sleeves will lose about .5-1 inch depending on the leather,

So far, I haven't experienced that on a goat, HH, or steer jacket.

Making a sleeve shorter is the easiest thing to alter on an A-2, and it can be done in a half hour or less for both sides.

Might be technically easy, but there's a loss of taper that is often the price to pay (as you said, back to custom tailored).

Chandler

Actually, I have had the experience of losing .5 to 1.0 inch on a horsehide A-2 after a warm water treatment to th sleeves.

As far as taper, Paddy at RMNZ told me that the standard procedure when shortening sleeves is to also adjust the taper of the sleeve to the new length.


Ted

 

[rgraham]

Excuse the question, but was does the term "tunneling" refer to?

Thanks.