Making A-2 practice pieces...

[fishmeok]

When I have time I've been practicing with scrap pieces to figure out how to make an A-2. Most of my practice material has come from thrift stores and the like- I realized tonight that I might be on to something. I mean, after all, ANYBODY can make an absolute perfect replica of a 1942 A-2, but how many people out there can make a stitch-by-stitch replica of a baggy '80's A-2, complete with nylon map lining and the smell of stale cigarettes? Now, if I can just convince someone that this is "art" I'll be good to go...
Cheers
Mark
Hitting the White Russians a little hard tonight...

 

[Roughwear]

wow! A real work of art.

 

[fishmeok]

I KNOW, My point exactly!!
Plus, I can turn these little corner pieces out in no time flat. Now, how does one go about starting one of those "trends" the kids seem to be on about these days... :lol:

Cheers
Mark

 

[navvet]

An ambitious project, indeed!

 

[fishmeok]

I picked up some nice and larger leather remnants to practice on. Also, some advice from Chapman about how to put this thing together, and a true industrial walking-needle machine. As you can see I'm still having trouble with stitch length and sewing a straight friggin line, but it's coming together slowly...
Steps to put together the windflap side:
1) sew liner to the waist band, only 4 or 5 inches (the inside half of the waistband)
2) sew the zipper to the liner
3) Sew the zipper and liner to the windflap piece
4) Sew the windflap, liner, and knit piece to the outer jacket body- this is the hidden seam so the jacket is turned inside out
5) sew the outer topstitch
6) sew the inner topstitch line.

With the material cut out the above steps took me about an hour or so on my first try. The #@$%# pocket flap took me two days and about 8 practice pieces to get a decent one. I'm still having trouble with the outer topstitch seam (on the windflap) rolling under- it's difficult to keep the leather pulled tight while keeping both edges level.

But that new leather sure smells good...

Cheers
Mark

 

[Hawkeye]

hot damn, looks like your really onto something here. Cant wait to see a finished jacket!

 

[better duck]

Mark, this is really fascinating to watch and follow. Keep it up, and keep us posted!
It shows so very well how much thought and craftsmanship go into the making of a jacket (any jacket or piece of clothing for that matter) that we otherwise put on without giving it a second thought.
Great stuff.

 

[Anonymous]

Great job.

This leather is a nice color. What is it?
Where did you get it?

 

[zoomer]

Mark, your workmanship is really, really coming along.
Would you say the walking foot machine has helped you?
That pocket is an example of what I meant when I said it can't be taught - only learned.

It shows so very well how much thought and craftsmanship go into the making of a jacket (any jacket or piece of clothing for that matter) that we otherwise put on without giving it a second thought.

This is so true. Some of us still know women who "run up" clothes for themselves or others, but that is a poor model to the stuff we guys wear. So much less complicated - less need for durability or precise fit. That's the reason that the word tailor is not just the masculine form of seamstress. Clothes for men are a building trade – as sophisticated in its way as fine carpentry or tool-and-die making.

 

[fishmeok]

Great job.

This leather is a nice color. What is it?
Where did you get it?

I'm not sure what it is- I picked up some cheap scraps from a local fabric warehouse, none bigger than the front piece I used. It's a nice color and probably about 3 or 4 ounce weight, but it has too red of a tone for a true A-2. Chapman mentioned to me that most of the colors today tend toward a reddish hue, while back in the '40's they were more yellowish- I could see that when looking at Jeff's originals last month.
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

Mark, your workmanship is really, really coming along.
Would you say the walking foot machine has helped you?
That pocket is an example of what I meant when I said it can't be taught - only learned.

Thanks- I kind of stumbled onto my machine, it's a 1923 Singer 78-3 industrial (originally meant for a treadle, it was made to sew medum weight car tops and tarps, awnings, etc.) that has been put into a modern table with a clutch motor. It's a walking needle machine- there are no feed dogs on the bottom, and the top presser foot is in two pieces. One piece holds the material and the other has the needle hole. Both the foot and needle move together while the needle is through all layers of the material being sewed. It took some tuning but it is working well now, though I am still learning how to properly feed the material so I can keep the correct stitch length. I picked mine up for a song, but If I had about $600 I'd look for a singer 211G industrial. It's more modern, has top and bottom feeds, reverse, etc.

It makes a HUGE difference when you are trying to sew through several layers- the machine won't bog down trying to punch through the leather and the walking needle lets me concentrate more on making straight stitches and feeding the material instead of trying to force the machine to do something it isn't really made to do. Plus I can use the larger needles, etc. Though I was using a 16 size on the practice piece.
Cheers
Mark

 

[yankee air pirate]

If you are looking for cheap full hides to work on try ebay. A friend of mine picks up whole cowhides for $40-$100 depending on the quality and color regularly. There are good hides and were good to practice on.

 

[T-Bolt]

Here is an example of a whole cowhide for sale:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Amazing-Whole-Hide- ... dZViewItem


Ted

 

[fishmeok]

The biggest problem I've had buying hides off e-bay is the judgeing stiffness and weight- many sellers really don't know what they have. I've got one now that's big enough to cover a couch, but it's too heavy for an A-2. It's also difficult to get a good color fix. But for $15 it was a great buy, even if I use the entire thing for practicing on. Included with it was another medium sized hide that had been shaved way down and is stiff as a board, not even useable for trial pieces. But that's e-bay...

I have enough leather now to get me through until I'm ready to make a real jacket. maybe I will just sew all the practice pieces together into one of those "fine Italian patchwork leather" jackets
Cheers
Mark

 

[zoomer]

The biggest problem I've had buying hides off e-bay is the judgeing stiffness and weight- many sellers really don't know what they have. I've got one now that's big enough to cover a couch, but it's too heavy for an A-2.

You could save it for a B-2. Now that you've got the industrial - you'll need it - then an old alpaca overcoat (if you believe LW) or blanket cloth (per Buzz), a biiig slab of dyed mouton, some rivets...

 

[fishmeok]

I can do rivits- I was an aircraft mechanic most of my life...
Cheers
Mark

 

[dujardin]

helloooooo,

nice work, really nice

congrats


byeeeeeeeeeeee marcel

 

[yankee air pirate]

Hey if you come by a good source for horsehide leather let me know as I am working on making up some leather jackets for my self including patterning a early war dubow a several vintage jackets. I would love to find some great HH for a couple of these. Your work seems to be going great and hope to see the final result...........very best

 

[fishmeok]

Hey if you come by a good source for horsehide leather let me know as I am working on making up some leather jackets for my self including patterning a early war dubow a several vintage jackets. I would love to find some great HH for a couple of these. Your work seems to be going great and hope to see the final result...........very best

It sounds like John has the best line on horsehides- I'm still too much of a newbie at this to start looking for serious sources yet. Are you doing the work yourself? Let's see some pics!!
Cheers
Mark

 

[yankee air pirate]

There is really nothing to see other than me practicing sewing straight seams. Right now I have patterned 2 vintage jackets and am going to pattern a dubow, but I have had a hell of a time sourcing HH leather. The few that do sell it either only sell in large bulk quantities or only have heavy chap (5-6oz) leather. All I would need is 1 or 2 hides. Even finding a decent cow has took some time!