Looking for a good knit replacement tailor in the US

Discussion in 'Care / Preservation' started by B-Man2, Nov 28, 2011.

  1. B-Man2

    B-Man2 Member

    Messages:
    429
    Hello;

    I'm restoring my Star G1 and I'm having trouble finding a good tailor to replace the knits using the existing needle holes. If anyone has a person in the US who is reliable, would you please pass me his contact information?

    Thank you
     
  2. SteveN

    SteveN Member

    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Silicon Valley, USA
    I thought I'd bump this one up. I'm also looking for someone to replace the knits and lining of my RMNZ A2. I've been wearing it for quite a while and the lining is tearing at the collar area.

    Barring a full lining replacement, anyone know of any easy fixes? It seems to be getting worse rapidly now that it's reached a certain point.

    Regards,

    - SteveN
     
  3. 6148th T.C.Squadron

    6148th T.C.Squadron Member

    Messages:
    878
    Location:
    U.S.A
    I think Gibson and Barnes, or another U.S based company might do it, I stress might.
     
  4. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,672
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    I'd sure be interested in hearing who does it. I'm no pro but I'll weigh in. Wrist knits aren't a problem but fitting the liner and waist knit is the most complicated and important part of a build and retrofitting (correctly)requires undoing a good part of the jacket not to mention sourcing the proper materials. Such retrofitting, IMO, is more work than building new. Few could do it in an undetectable way.
    Depending on the style, or A-2 contract, the zipper would need to come out and then be put back into the new liner first. I see this type of job as a good part of the original jacket price so might be cost-prohibitive unless it is quite rare or sentimental. You will find someone but they will unlikely give it the stitch- by-stitch attention we all understand it deserves.
    Have you considered a period-style repair hand-stitched in?
    How about some pics?
    Just spit-balling,
    Dave
     
  5. scwells

    scwells New Member

    Messages:
    22
    I had someone in Tennessee. She's done only G-1 style jackets for me, including collars, zippers, complete and partial linings, pockets, torn leather, patches, darning knits, buttons. The last jacket that I had done was a few months ago and she told me she was taking a break to care for her ailing mother. She has operated by word-of-mouth. She doesn't advertise and isn't on the internet. She uses the old stitch holes. Her work is amazing. The best I can do is reach out to her and see where she stands with taking on work. Without counting, I couldn't say for sure how many jackets. Maybe 10 jackets, with one or two getting basically the works.

    This is my first posting. Haven't had much to offer up to this point.
     
  6. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,672
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Welcome! Great first post.
    I know markets vary but what does it cost for such work? How does she go about proper zips, knits, and lining material? As you might be able to tell, we can be quite picky about those details.
    Great info!
    Dave
     
  7. scwells

    scwells New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Hi Dave,

    All I can say regarding zippers, knits etc is that she has a source or sources that will sell materials to her. I have also acquired materials and sent them with jackets for her to use and only paid for labor.

    I'm not much of a paper saver, so I don't have all of my invoices, but I do have the most recent from Dec. 2013. This was a very beat up G-1 type, missing the label. She replaced the waist knits ($150), wrist knits($80), re-inforced a spot that had worn through($30), re-stitched some loose patches ($20), replaced the lining ($50 fabric, $200 labor). This is a late 1940s G-1 type with a personal connection, so I was willing to spend.

    In the past, she has also replaced elastics. On one jacket, she replaced just the shoulder area of the lining. I have used her for about 12-13 years. I had her sew 4 patches on a G-1 for my daughter. She lifted the lining, sewed the patches and re-attached the lining. Can't tell she did that, but it cost $100.

    At one point, Cooper Sportswear referred customers to her for jacket repair and restoration.

    best regards,

    Steve
     
  8. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,672
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Thanks for that info. That sounds like a lot but it is labor intensive, tedious, and stressful.
    Unless discounted, the OP would likely have to give a little over $500 and perhaps be able to haggle for use of his own preferred materials.
    I know people probably think that's a killing but there is a reason makers here don't advertise such services.
    Perhaps you could post pics of this G-1 in another post?

    Dave
     
  9. scwells

    scwells New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Pricey, without doubt. The jackets that I have had her restore were not my "wearers", but 60+ year old jackets with serious problems, each of which meant more to me than the money.

    I'll have to study up on posting photos.

    Steve
     
  10. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,672
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Great! It's easy with a photobucket account. Just paste the *image* link.
    The personal ones are the best jackets IMO.
    Dave
     
  11. SteveN

    SteveN Member

    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Silicon Valley, USA
    What would a period fix for a liner be? It seems that the collar is the area that first goes. I don't mind being 'period correct' for my fix; this is my wearer.

    - SteveN
     
  12. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,672
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    I just meant an inexpensive patch of some sort.
    Sorry, I
    Got a little distracted. Dave
     
  13. GoodTimesGone

    GoodTimesGone New Member

    Messages:
    188
    Location:
    Southeast Iowa, U.S.A.
    If the lady in Tennessee is the same one that's done my jacket repair/restoration she is still referred by the Peters Group website. http://www.peters-group.com/jacket_repair.htm
    I haven't sent any jackets to her in a few years but I highly recommend her skills as a seamstress. She has no problem with a person sending along their own materials to use for a replacement job. When she replaced zippers for me I let her source them because the zipper brand and model has to match up evenly with the length of the jacket. The work can be a little pricey but she doesn't take shortcuts and always does a perfect job. Super nice person to deal with as well.
    __________________________________________________________________________
    Tom
     
  14. Maverickson

    Maverickson Active Member

    Messages:
    319
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Hi All,

    Yes, in the past I've had Willow Evans do some work for me. She did a fine job on one of my wearer G-1 Werber jackets. That work consisted of some sleeve work which consisted of some repair stitching to a sleeve and cuff work. She went way out of her way for me & did a great job that came in under $200.00.

    In the past I've recommended her to others. That work was always done without complaints. Although I now do most of my own repairs I highly recommend Willow!

    Cheers, Dave
     
  15. RayR

    RayR Member

    Messages:
    120
    I'm in the US and I asked John at Good Wear to suggest someone on this continent for repairs. He suggested I try flightjacket.com for installing a new set of knits, lining, and zipper on my Rough Wear 1401P. I didn't really like the look of their knits on the site, so I ordered from MASH Japan along with a NOS Talon zipper. I purchased the lining he suggested from another cloth dealer. The repair price is quite reasonable IMO, and I'm quoted 1 week turnaround. Cuffs $35 installed and waistband $50 installed. That's including their materials. :eek:

    Sadly, I don't think I get a discount for providing my own parts. It was really tricky to find the "repairs" page, so here is the link if you want to check it out:

    http://www.flightjacket.com/jackets/repair.html


    I just sent in my stuff today via USPS 2-Day Priority Mail, So I should know sometime after next week.
     
  16. RayR

    RayR Member

    Messages:
    120

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