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JAN 2023 Fivestar Dubow A.C. 27798

Dnewc

Member
Greetings all! This is my first official post on this forum. I’ve been in the WWII USGI reenactment scene for well over a decade but have recently grown to enjoy WWII flight jackets. I’m aware of all the major manufacturers (current and defunct) and have enjoyed reading through countless reviews over the years.

I did an extensive review on a Fivestar (FS) Bronco 29191 on a popular flight jacket FB page that seemed to garner some good feedback (I may repost if there is an appetite for it). Recently, I posted a detailed review of my new J.A. Dubow on that that same page but unfortunately there seems to be some bad blood between the admin and FS so my post was deleted. Pettiness aside I still feel it is important to give an in-depth and honest review.

Ordering details: I ordered the J.A. Dubow goatskin A2 (no frills) directly from the FS website in early Jan. After some back and forth regarding sizing my jacket was mailed mid-Jan. I appreciated their concern for my sizing choice. I ordered a standard 40 which was a significant size increase from my Bronco (which fits like a glove but I wanted ample room for layering). Currently, I stand at 5’6”, 150 lbs with a 30” waist and 41” chest. I’ve got short arms and a short trunk so I knew the jacket might be a little long but it was a risk I was willing to take. I used their 20% holiday promo so with shipping the total came to just north of $270.

Historical background: This jacket represents a 50,000 unit contract executed in the spring of 1942. By this time many of the small, unique features of early A2s had disappeared. This is a no frills-government issue garment.

Photo details: All photos were taken in natural light with my phone. The fit picture is still natural light but we had a snowstorm last night so it’s bright as hell outside.

Leather: The jacket is a dark russet brown (no red tint) veg-tanned goatskin with some interesting grain (almost pebbled). The weight is consistent throughout with no identified thin spots. I wiped the jacket down with an alcohol solution and applied one coat of conditioner and was surprised to see that there was no dye transfer. Ultimately I find this to be well within the margin of error (weight and color) of original examples.
96555024-8CF9-4492-A449-2B8B5A9E4B10.jpeg

4E861F58-8E46-4D34-9777-7C0F463F42E1.jpeg

Stitching: The stitching is OD cotton thread (historically accurate) which is less obvious than white or khaki thread. There is fantastic attention to detail regarding the consistency of the stitch work and the leather hasn’t been harpooned like some other manufacturers. The reinforcements on the waistband and pockets are present. The epaulettes are constructed with the correct double stitch line and large rectangular boxes. The hanger (abeit wide) also features the correct box stitching.
695E87C2-712F-407C-8F62-7C0708E5F0B8.jpeg

Cuffs: FS contacted me and told me that their standard russet cuffs were not available. I opted to swap them with the dull purple wool cuffs. This is still accurate based on surviving examples. These cuffs are subtle and only show that “purple” in the sun which is better than some of the almost brandy colored examples available on the market. No issues with the application of the cuffs and waistband. They are snug enough to allow the leather to fall over naturally.
59EAFCD6-DBD6-4F69-B399-4C7704E3FA6F.jpeg
FD5818AF-ABC9-42BD-882D-6E095736E30C.jpeg

Lining: The lining is an orangish cotton without any added improvements. This material will weather nicely around the high traction areas just like the originals. It features the stud coverings on the collar as well. The tag is the classic single-piece construction with narrow font. I have seen examples of orange and yellow lettering so this fits the bill. The lining is devoid of any inspection stamps which is consistent with originals.
B2D90E40-119B-47B6-9286-75F5F39F17F6.jpeg

D94DA548-AE5C-4959-826B-ABF28637AF62.jpeg

Hardware: FS has improved their hardware game. My chief complaint about my Bronco are the anachronistic snaps/studs they used. They have now eliminated this concern by incorporating smaller United Carr snaps on the pockets and collar which is accurate for this contract. The pocket features the correct leather reinforcements. The collar hook is your typical repro. No issues with the placement. The zipper is a triple marked stainless steel Talon repro. It is a safe option but I’ve seen double marked stainless steel and brass Talon zips on originals. Additionally the end studs near the collar are modern. This is not a huge detractor as you have to be within a foot yo identify this feature.
656A813C-9CBE-4221-B4A9-DC54436378CF.jpeg

EE6D1E19-78CF-4486-8D30-AFE4F77BE051.jpeg

Patterning: Dubow is known for its small neck hole, pointed collar, wide arms, gracious waist, and curved, symmetrical pockets. All of these features have been fantastically replicated by FS. There is ample room in the arms thanks to large arm holes. The sleeves taper correctly to the cuff. The taper in the waist is subtle and helps to negate the jacket riding up when your arms are lifted. The shoulders are narrow with epaulettes sewn forward of the shoulder seam. All of this helps create a comfy yet athletic fit that would accommodate layers (which is exactly why I chose this pattern). I did not identify any glaring departures from original patterning of this contract.
3206AA90-FDE8-43CD-8971-6F2C779F275F.jpeg

Ending thoughts: I really like this jacket. It fits well and will allow me to wear more than just a t-shirt underneath. I’m excited to see how it weathers over the years. I can see why this is the FS flagship. It certainly gives the other guys a run for their money, literally.
 
Last edited:

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Hi and welcome to VLJ ! Whatever you write ( concerning jackets anyway) is pretty much safe here. We welcome your opinions . If I may suggest … your future posts will be more effective and gather more responses if you drop the thumb nails and post full photos of your items . It’s a very simple process that takes no effort and makes it easy for all of us to see your photos . Thanks for your first post … a good one …. And welcome .
Cheers
 

Dnewc

Member
Hi and welcome to VLJ ! Whatever you write ( concerning jackets anyway) is pretty much safe here. We welcome your opinions . If I may suggest … your future posts will be more effective and gather more responses if you drop the thumb nails and post full photos of your items . It’s a very simple process that takes no effort and makes it easy for all of us to see your photos . Thanks for your first post … a good one …. And welcome .
Cheers
Changes saved. Thanks for the help!
 

Dnewc

Member
Welcome to the forum.
Well, for this price, this jacket can really be forgiven for a lot (wrong label font, cheap inaccurate zipper and a number of other nuances).
In any case, the main thing is that you are satisfied;)
I saw that they recently changed their zippers however my comment still stands that a double marked talon or even the brass rectangular ones seen on the M41 would be better suited. I noticed that the margins on the tag are a little big creating a more rectangular shape. I also noticed that the Rs are slightly incorrect however this appears to be an issue on all repros with the exception of Goodwear. As you stated there are some other nuances including the slightly flared collar construction and wide hanger that are slightly off. Additionally, the lack of inspection tag in the pocket. Ultimately this is still a great jacket and I think it’s a better option than some other manufacturers. I get it, there is a certain amount of flexing that needs to be done in this hobby but the real trophy belongs to the dudes who wear the OGs without remorse.
 

Micawber

Well-Known Member
Welcome to VLJ @Dnewc
Thanks for your interesting appraisal of this jacket. I would like to second B-Man2's recommendation to post full size images as opposed to thumbnails. The forum software can be confusing when it comes to uploading images but is easy once you get the gist. Once the image has actually uploaded click "insert" then hit "full size" and Bob's your newly found uncle ;)
 

Flightengineer

Well-Known Member
I saw that they recently changed their zippers however my comment still stands that a double marked talon or even the brass rectangular ones seen on the M41 would be better suited. I noticed that the margins on the tag are a little big creating a more rectangular shape. I also noticed that the Rs are slightly incorrect however this appears to be an issue on all repros with the exception of Goodwear. As you stated there are some other nuances including the slightly flared collar construction and wide hanger that are slightly off. Additionally, the lack of inspection tag in the pocket. Ultimately this is still a great jacket and I think it’s a better option than some other manufacturers. I get it, there is a certain amount of flexing that needs to be done in this hobby but the real trophy belongs to the dudes who wear the OGs without remorse.

The point is not double or triple marked Talon, but the fact FS use cheap modern copy of Talon, that it is an irregular shape (slider, puller and finally the metal itself) as well as modern stoppers on top and this is very noticeable.

I didn't say that the jacket is bad :), I only said about the accuracy and I'd not be so categorical about GW, for example, Platon's and BK Dubow is OK with this but yes, it's a different league and different money:)
 
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Dnewc

Member
Welcome to VLJ @Dnewc
Thanks for your interesting appraisal of this jacket. I would like to second B-Man2's recommendation to post full size images as opposed to thumbnails. The forum software can be confusing when it comes to uploading images but is easy once you get the gist. Once the image has actually uploaded click "insert" then hit "full size" and Bob's your newly found uncle ;)
Looks like I fixed it. Third time’s the charm.
 

Dnewc

Member
*Edit (18 FEB): The discussion regarding the tag made me realize two things: 1) Yes, the “3s” are not the correct font and 2) you will notice that either “drawing” is spelled incorrectly or there’s a glitch on their machine where it didn’t close the G.
 

ties70

Well-Known Member
*Edit (18 FEB): The discussion regarding the tag made me realize two things: 1) Yes, the “3s” are not the correct font and 2) you will notice that either “drawing” is spelled incorrectly or there’s a glitch on their machine where it didn’t close the G.

I have the same contract from FS and I would swear that my label says DRAWING but I would have to check that.

Labels are a weak point of FS.
Their Dubow label is one of their best. There are two or three that are better (their early helmet bag; the BRONCO; one of their USN sheepskin jackets), but most of the current A-2 and B-3 labels have definitely room for improvement....

Best regards,

Ties
 

D97x7

Well-Known Member
Ha, I'd never noticed, seems I'm a DRAWINC as well.
IMG_20230220_155859_edit_709664849675566.jpg

I assume the 1 before the 415 shouldn't be there either?
 
Last edited:

herk115

Active Member
Greetings all! This is my first official post on this forum. I’ve been in the WWII USGI reenactment scene for well over a decade but have recently grown to enjoy WWII flight jackets. I’m aware of all the major manufacturers (current and defunct) and have enjoyed reading through countless reviews over the years.

I did an extensive review on a Fivestar (FS) Bronco 29191 on a popular flight jacket FB page that seemed to garner some good feedback (I may repost if there is an appetite for it). Recently, I posted a detailed review of my new J.A. Dubow on that that same page but unfortunately there seems to be some bad blood between the admin and FS so my post was deleted. Pettiness aside I still feel it is important to give an in-depth and honest review.

Ordering details: I ordered the J.A. Dubow goatskin A2 (no frills) directly from the FS website in early Jan. After some back and forth regarding sizing my jacket was mailed mid-Jan. I appreciated their concern for my sizing choice. I ordered a standard 40 which was a significant size increase from my Bronco (which fits like a glove but I wanted ample room for layering). Currently, I stand at 5’6”, 150 lbs with a 30” waist and 41” chest. I’ve got short arms and a short trunk so I knew the jacket might be a little long but it was a risk I was willing to take. I used their 20% holiday promo so with shipping the total came to just north of $270.

Historical background: This jacket represents a 50,000 unit contract executed in the spring of 1942. By this time many of the small, unique features of early A2s had disappeared. This is a no frills-government issue garment.

Photo details: All photos were taken in natural light with my phone. The fit picture is still natural light but we had a snowstorm last night so it’s bright as hell outside.

Leather: The jacket is a dark russet brown (no red tint) veg-tanned goatskin with some interesting grain (almost pebbled). The weight is consistent throughout with no identified thin spots. I wiped the jacket down with an alcohol solution and applied one coat of conditioner and was surprised to see that there was no dye transfer. Ultimately I find this to be well within the margin of error (weight and color) of original examples.
View attachment 97099
View attachment 97101
Stitching: The stitching is OD cotton thread (historically accurate) which is less obvious than white or khaki thread. There is fantastic attention to detail regarding the consistency of the stitch work and the leather hasn’t been harpooned like some other manufacturers. The reinforcements on the waistband and pockets are present. The epaulettes are constructed with the correct double stitch line and large rectangular boxes. The hanger (abeit wide) also features the correct box stitching.
View attachment 97109
Cuffs: FS contacted me and told me that their standard russet cuffs were not available. I opted to swap them with the dull purple wool cuffs. This is still accurate based on surviving examples. These cuffs are subtle and only show that “purple” in the sun which is better than some of the almost brandy colored examples available on the market. No issues with the application of the cuffs and waistband. They are snug enough to allow the leather to fall over naturally.
View attachment 97113View attachment 97115
Lining: The lining is an orangish cotton without any added improvements. This material will weather nicely around the high traction areas just like the originals. It features the stud coverings on the collar as well. The tag is the classic single-piece construction with narrow font. I have seen examples of orange and yellow lettering so this fits the bill. The lining is devoid of any inspection stamps which is consistent with originals.
View attachment 97103
View attachment 97105
Hardware: FS has improved their hardware game. My chief complaint about my Bronco are the anachronistic snaps/studs they used. They have now eliminated this concern by incorporating smaller United Carr snaps on the pockets and collar which is accurate for this contract. The pocket features the correct leather reinforcements. The collar hook is your typical repro. No issues with the placement. The zipper is a triple marked stainless steel Talon repro. It is a safe option but I’ve seen double marked stainless steel and brass Talon zips on originals. Additionally the end studs near the collar are modern. This is not a huge detractor as you have to be within a foot yo identify this feature.
View attachment 97107
View attachment 97111
Patterning: Dubow is known for its small neck hole, pointed collar, wide arms, gracious waist, and curved, symmetrical pockets. All of these features have been fantastically replicated by FS. There is ample room in the arms thanks to large arm holes. The sleeves taper correctly to the cuff. The taper in the waist is subtle and helps to negate the jacket riding up when your arms are lifted. The shoulders are narrow with epaulettes sewn forward of the shoulder seam. All of this helps create a comfy yet athletic fit that would accommodate layers (which is exactly why I chose this pattern). I did not identify any glaring departures from original patterning of this contract.
View attachment 97139
Ending thoughts: I really like this jacket. It fits well and will allow me to wear more than just a t-shirt underneath. I’m excited to see how it weathers over the years. I can see why this is the FS flagship. It certainly gives the other guys a run for their money, literally.
Hi. Welcome to VLJ. I bought the same jacket a couple of years ago and was happy with the fit and the cut and all, but I felt the goatskin was a little TOO goatskin...meaning it looked like the pressed cowhide the Navy used on their G-1s, only more so. It's a good enough jacket and that makes it a keeper, but I'm still on the fence over the hide. I'm curious if you've noticed the same thing in your jacket. I've bought a couple of other 5* in horsehide, and they are absolutely fantastic!
 

entertainment

Well-Known Member
Welcome to VLJ @Dnewc
Thanks for your interesting appraisal of this jacket. I would like to second B-Man2's recommendation to post full size images as opposed to thumbnails. The forum software can be confusing when it comes to uploading images but is easy once you get the gist. Once the image has actually uploaded click "insert" then hit "full size" and Bob's your newly found uncle ;)
I am able to just drag and drop the images into the message from Finder on my Mac (without using the "Attach files" button). Not sure if this will work on PC.
 

Micawber

Well-Known Member
I am able to just drag and drop the images into the message from Finder on my Mac (without using the "Attach files" button). Not sure if this will work on PC.

Agreed, I can do the same on my Mac and when I'm on the PC too. On the phone has to be via the method I described [ I was on my phone at the time].
 
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