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Jacket Length for Short Guys

Closing in on my first jacket purchase, but length is the final issue. I know when it comes to mall jackets, each sizes adds at least 1” in length. But when it comes to the repro makers. There seems to be an average of no more than about 1.25” between a 38 and a 48, with each size adding maybe about .25”. But for a guy between 5’7” and 5’8” tall, and having never bought a jacket, I’m having a hard time determining what my length is. 25” seems safe, especially with the modern day rise on jeans, but if there are guys on this forum who are taller than me and getting something in the 24” range, I’m concerned that 25” will still be too long.
Any tips or thoughts are appreciated!
 

mulceber

Moderator
I’m 6’1” and wear a jacket in the 24.5-25” length range, depending on the maker. That said, on modern waist jeans my Dubow (24.5”) falls barely to the bottom of my belt loops, and my Rough Wear (25”) not even that far. I more frequently wear high-waisted pants now.
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
A lot depends on the pattern - some contracts are longer, others slightly shorter.
Mall jackets tend to be more blousy and wider, not necessarily longer. The label sizing is also out of whack.
If I understand, you are looking at a more accurate repro? If so, most of these will be patterned after originals and thus sized relatively correctly.
I am 5'10 or 5'11 depending who's measuring me, 40" chest, trim build and I favour a 26" back length. Mainly because its just feels more comfortable for me, not pulling up the back so much. I don't like a jacket sitting high up and prefer it to sit on my hips and slightly fold over - classic WW2 fit.
I can get a way with a 25", which is generally what an original 42 would be (depending on pattern).
5'8? Id say 24 to 24.5", 25" if you'd prefer it on the longer side.
What jacket are you considering?
 
Due to budget (and being a first time buyer) and the fact that I’m looking for something I can feel easy about beating up, I’m looking at AVI or 5 star mostly, but also have my eye on the Buy/Sell so figure a good knowledge of measurements is helpful
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
If you don't have a leather bomber jacket type to gauge off, do you have a denim jacket?
I think you are going down the right road for your first purchase. AVI has a couple of new old stock A-2s on Ebay, selling for a song. Fivestar's Doniger A-2 looks fantastic! And Shawn will make up to your specs.
Secondhand, well you could get lucky, just be aware of any 'issues'. Replacing knits, zippers or lining can become pricey and a headache, depending where you are and access to a very good tailor.
Besides Ebay, this and the Fedora Lounge's Sale pages, Eastman has a Classifieds section on their webpage also.
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
Have to add, before you spend $300 or $400 on a secondhand jacket off Ebay, take a careful look at jadubowmfg.
These horsehide Dubow repros are incredible value for money. Sure, a lot than what you'd pay for an AVI or Fivestar, but as many will attest too here, they are high end jackets at a low end cost.
Standard sizes, so it's simple. Go by your chest size and then go up a size... is the general recommendation.
Dubows tend to run a touch shorter in the back, than some other contracts, so length should not be an issue if you get the right size.
If you order, request the waist knit to be a bit tighter than normal, as I found mine came a bit looser than I'd have preferred.
 

mulceber

Moderator
I’ll second that. By all accounts, the Dubow mfg jackets are a $1000 jacket at half the price. If you can do it, go for one of theirs.
 
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