How do you get rid of the old musty smell of a VLJ?

[oldskoolonly]

Recently bought an original A2, its a fantastic looking jacket but the musty old smell is atrocious... I dont dare wear it cause ill be mistaken for an elderly or a 1000yo church pew....

Tried Baking soda, but with zero effect. Any other suggestions????

Paul

 

[Andrew]

Paul, that's my Aero right? If so it should be noted it would just be the leather that smells as it has new unworn knits, lining and zip. All I ever did to the shell of that one was applied a very slightly moist cloth over the leather. You could try doing that again or giving it a feed of Pecards but that'd kill the great patina it already has.

I'd just give it another go with a damp cloth and leave it outside. I doubt you'll ever get it smelling perfect though, welcome to the world of originals .

 

[deeb7]

Tried Baking soda, but with zero effect. Any other suggestions????

Shipping a jacket seems to highlight any odours, so they always need a good airing. If it's had a week sealed up with the baking soda, a few days in the sun should improve it. If that doesn't work, try the pet odour spray.

I don't know if Pecards would do anything for the smell, and Pecards appears to be irreversible, so if you don't like the look of it ....

 

[bobbyball]

Hang it up in the garden on a good day and place a freshly washed dry towel inside over the horizontal part of the hanger – this did the trick for me. However there is 'whiff' to original leather that IMO is part of (and unique to) the appeal and authenticity.

 

[Harlock]

Anyone w/experience professional leather cleaning an original?

 

[Jaydee]

I have had great results with Lexol PH balanced leather cleaner. I have removed heavy tobacco odor with it. Do small sections at a time. If the leather is really dry, be careful because the water will soak in like a sponge. Have one wet rag with soap on it, another wet rag for wiping the soap off, and another dry rag to imediately pat the area dry. Be careful and do very small sections at a time. If staining occurs then you will have to Pecard it to get rid of that. Don't do this unless you are willing to condition the jacket because you will probably have to after you clean it.

If the jacket is extremely dry, you may have to lightly condition it first before cleaning. And then re-condition it. This is will give mixed results because the odor may be driven further into the porious leather, and protected by the conditioners. But if you try cleaning first and you apply water to clean it, and it soaks right though and stains the liner you may not have a choice. Besides airing it out or leaving it alone and selling it to buy another.

 

[ghq1]

Aromatic cedar oil works wonders as a deodorizer.

Buy it on Ebay for $5-10 per 4 oz bottle.

Cut it with a little water on a sponge and apply to taste.

Will also repel bugs, moths plus it smells better than Febreze or pet products.

 

[Jaydee]

BTW: Don't use Nature's Miracle odor and stain remover on leather, it's has alcohol in it.

I would not trust a "Professional Cleaner" unless they came highly recommended by a WWII jacket owner for a similar job. It takes a professional who understands the historical significance and value of these jackets to really give it the careful attention it deserves. Most tailors / cleaners would probably just think it's an "old leather jacket".

 

[ghq1]

BTW: Don't use Nature's Miracle odor and stain remover on leather, it's has alcohol in it.

I would not trust a "Professional Cleaner" unless they came highly recommended by a WWII jacket owner for a similar job. It takes a professional who understands the historical significance and value of these jackets to really give it the careful attention it deserves. Most tailors / cleaners would probably just think it's an "old leather jacket".

The presence of alcohol in any application to or for leather is not nec bad . . .Plus it has antimicrobial, bactericide, fungicide, and virucide benefits.

Some oils and micro waxes transmit better in an alcohol solution plus most leather dyes are alcohol based . .

For example:

TREATMENT OF BRITTLE and/or DESICCATED LEATHER
The following treatments that involve the addition of lubricants have been used successfully on brittle and/or desiccated leather. Glycerol, which is soluble in water and alcohol, acts as a humectant for the leather.

SMITHSONIAN GLYCERIN TREATMENT

59 percent glycerin (glycerol)
39 percent water
1 percent formaldehyde or 1% Dowicide (TM) 1
OR
25 percent glycerin
75 percent alcohol
Immerse the artifact in the solution until the leather is pliable. (When an alcohol solution is used, it is difficult to determine when the leather is pliable because the alcohol makes the leather stiff.) Treatment may require several weeks. The treatment restores flexibility, but glycerin is hygroscopic and can support mold growth. In spite of this fact, the Smithsonian Glycerin Treatment has been used successfully.

Waterlogged leather recovered from excavations by The Museum of London is conserved in a solution of 30 percent glycerin and 70 percent alcohol (ethanol) for two weeks. The leather is then dried in three successive baths of acetone, each three hours long (glycerin is not soluble in acetone). Similar results can be achieved by using 10-40 percent glycerin mixed in 90-60 percent alcohol or water. Avoid using concentrated glycerin. While the solutions in alcohol can remove tanning agents, alcohol speeds up the conservation process and confers greater mechanical strength to the leather than will a water solution.

 

[Dr H]

May I add my customary rider to this?
If you're planning to use 1 percent formaldehyde, 75 percent alcohol or acetone then invest in some surgical gloves (preferably nitrile) and some eye protection. Undertake any of these operations in a well ventilated room.
Cheers
Ian