Help me choose a new flight jacket

[Steve_23]

New member here. It’s a bit of a long post, but I tried to put in some research ahead of time, and didn't want to duplicate a thread.

I am looking to purchase a M422a or G-1 type jacket. I’ve read through pretty much all of the threads I could find between here, TFL and general google searches. My budget is approx $350-375, so the top-tier repros are out of budget. Here is what I’ve identified so far as important, but I am posting to ask your experts’ opinions and thoughts on what I have missed.

My goal is not a 100% period and contract specific jacket really, it is to have a jacket with reasonable quality, which looks good. I intend on actually wearing it often, (I fly for a living) so durability, that will wear well over time and good fit are most important. Not so much a collector piece, more of regular wear.

It seems like I am basically looking at either AVI or Five Star in terms of purchase at my budget, and after all of my reading, it seems like people are generally happy with either. Five Star seems to be more customized, but it sounds like I need to be super specific with them, whereas AVI has their production jackets.

With AVI, my choices seem to be their the G-1 or M422A. Both appear to be very similar in style, my guess is they are cut differently, but I haven’t found a good comparison between the two.

If I were to go with 5*:
-Need to have very specific measurements
-Request “premium, non-distressed” leather
-One item of confusion for me is the sheer number of different “contracts” of the same style (M422 or G1). How is one to pick from all of the potentials?
-Zippers seem to be in item for some, I am really just looking for something that works, and looks close enough.

My last question has to do with fit. I am a trim guy 5’8” about 155lbs… Is it better to go with a stock size, or attempt to use custom measurements from another jacket? I have an old Cooper A-2 (small) that sort of fits, but isn’t very comfortable, so I worry about pulling sizes from it.

What else should I be aware of, or ask about? I am open to your thought and suggestions.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Greg Gale]

I can really recommend AVI, great quality. G-1 vs m422a: latter has salmon lining, the g-1 has normal brown(ish). The m422a’s collar is a bit wider. I owned both.

In terms of fit, the g-1 has wider shoulders but tighter waist/ torso. Very athletic fit. The m422 is more balanced overall. If you are between sizes recommend going up.

 

[Brettafett]

Ive done a number of reviews of AVIs G-1, M-422a and ANJ-3 in the repros sections.
Highly recommend as per Greg above.

If I could only have one, I'd have the M-422A. Its just an easy comfortable wearer. The G-1 is great, but would suit a particular body type better.
The ANJ-3 is the M-422A but with a leather collar, so its perhaps more practical as an all round wearer. But that would depend on your requirements.
All AVI's jackets are patterned after originals they actually have in their collection, so details may not up to the high end repro spec, but for the price, they are pretty good and unbeatable.

Suggestions.
Sizing, go up one size from you chest size for sure. Again, depending on body type. If you are a larger fellow, you may need to go 2 sizes.
So, if you are 5'8 and 38" chest, go for a size 40
AVI will add a bit of length if need be, if you email Morten (info@...) but I dont think this is necessary for the M-422a

Also, if you do order an M-422A, I would suggest requesting the darker seal goat and mid brown thread (same combo as on the ANJ-3). The leather is a smidgen thicker in some instances and has a bit more grain. All in all, its a great combo for the M-422A (add this request in the notes section at checkout and follow up with an email...)

Good luck.

 

[Steve_23]

Thank you both for your thoughts!

@Brettafett I had also been looking at the ANJ3 style. It does seem better for an all around type solution. I appreciate the sizing suggestion, I would probably have ended up ordering a 38 otherwise. I did try to compare the measurements of a few of my other jackets (none are leather, so I tried to get an average) ans it appears the 40 is the correct call.

I'm going to try an AVI ANJ3, and will report back once I get it.

 

[Brettafett]

Looking forward to fit pics and review.

 

[Steve_23]

Reporting back after my AVI ANJ3 purchase...

I am very pleased with the service, response time, shipping time and quality of the ANJ3 from AVI. Morten was very quick to reply when I ordered, and to suggest I check the measurements one more time (which I did). He told me it would ship in 2 weeks, but I actually received the jacket about 7 days after ordering. Much faster than I anticipated. I really like the lightweight feel and the color/look of the leather. The little bit of contrast between the leather and the stitching is a great look in my opinion.

I did double check the measurements on their site before my purchase and ended up ordering the size 40. My main issue is, the jacket is uncomfortably snug across my chest (more so when fully zipped), but the rest of the jacket fits great in my opinion.

Here are some pics of the jacket and fit. I like the overall fit of the jacket, sleeves, back length and such. It's just too tight across the chest, and any large would certainly make the waist way large. The close up chest photo, you can see it pulling across my shoulders. Is there a way to stretch the fabric or better just to go full custom fit?

 

[mulceber]

It's just too tight across the chest, and any large would certainly make the waist way large.

Tbh, in the photos where it zips up, it looks a bit snug around the waist as well The knits are stretchy, so you could go a size up without it being too large there. The photo from the back looks especially off. I'd just get a size 42. MAYBE ask if you can get a 42 with the length of a 40. Maybe.

 

[Skyhawk]

Not sure what's going on with the back. That looks a bit strange. If you did get a size 42 it may exacerbate the loose fit in the back. It almost looks like the back panel was made too large.

 

[B-Man2]

Agree with Mulceber . That one’s pulling across your chest and tight across the abdomen and under the arms. Go up a size .

 

[Steve_23]

Thanks for the replies, I agree the back doesn't look very good either... could this have to do with the front being so tight? I appreciate the feedback, I see what @mulceber is talking about with the waist too. While wearing it though, the waist actually feels somewhat loose.

Now to figure out what I'm going to do about it.

 

[Brettafett]

I'd say to go up a size, but retain the sleeve length, ie ask for the same length as this jacket.
That back looks like a packaging fold crease, which would wear out in short time. Had this many times with all makers.
Email Morten and show him the pics and request an exchange.

 

[A2 B3au]

Exchange on what basis, if the crease on back will come out then it’s just a sizing issue. Do company’s exchange on those terms.. just asking

 

[Silver Surfer]

agree with jay, in that there's something off in the center back. in the case of many jackets that are initially snug across the front, the hide in the back panel will move a little forward, thus loosening the front. also with wear the hides will loosen up, giving a little more room across the chest.

 

[Steve_23]

I wanted to report back now that I have received my exchange ANJ3 jacket from AVI (now a 42 with the arm and back length of a 40). Previously ordered a stock size 40.

Morten was very responsive to my emails/questions after I realized I would need to exchange the first jacket and that I would need a more custom jacket than an off the rack variety. He was glad to answer my questions, and the production/shipping of the 2nd jacket back to me was much faster than I anticipated. I think about 1.5 weeks from the time I agreed to the jacket for the exchange, to it arriving (to me in the US).

Here are some pics of the jacket and fit. I like the fit of this one much better, much more comfortable to wear. The only thing I would potentially change is the wool waistband at the bottom, it feels a bit loose, and I worry about that getting worse over time as it stretches out with wear. Any ideas on a way to make the waistband a bit more snug, or help prevent it from stretching too much over time?

 

[mulceber]

MUUUCCHHHH better fit...

Regarding the waistband, I think the only real remedy would be to replace the waistband, which can be done by a bunch of people. @STEVE S. here on the VLJ is VERY good at jacket repair, so he'd be my recommendation. But tbh, the waist knits look good to my eye. Honestly, there's more blousing than you see on a normal Navy jacket.

 

[B-Man2]

Yep…. That’s the one !

 

[Micawber]

Just wear the hell out of it and stop worrying about minor stuff.

 

[Brettafett]

Yes, better.
As Jan said, you could replace the knits, but maybe wear it in and feel it out over a season and then re-assess.
A local tailor might be able to remove and re-set the band, so its a bit more taught, but if not done by someone who knows their stuff, you could cause more unnecessary drama.
Where in the world are you?

 

[Steve_23]

Thanks everyone for all of the help and feedback! As I mentioned before, I am very happy with the fit and jacket overall. It will get lots if wear. My question about the waistband was more long-term thinking.

I live in New England, so there is plenty of weather opportunities to wear my new jacket.

 

[mulceber]

Loose knits shouldn't be a problem. If you say they're loosely gripping your waist/hips, then they shouldn't really stretch out. They'd be more likely to stretch if they were very tight. And if they do, there are plenty of people in the US who can replace them. IIRC, the going rate is in the neighborhood of $50-100.