Goodwear advise

[JWS4th]

I talked to John earlier this week and he told me he would be starting my jacket within the next two weeks and it was time to make some decision, originally placed the order back in September 2011. I am leaning towards the Dubow 20960 since I do like the collar stand and the box stitching on the epaulets. I ordered a triple marked nos Talon zipper from Mash which John is holding and I definitely want the seal brown aniline veg-tanned horse hide. Would it be sacrilegious to have the Dubow 20960 with this hide and zipper combination since it is not historically correct? I do seem to recall seeing this model in this hide but not sure about the zipper. I welcome opinions to which jackets may have been historically correct with these two choices. Thank you for the help. Will post pictures once I receive the finished jacket.

 

[derleicaman]

John's site does show the Dubow 20960 in seal horse. However, I would personally recommend the Dubow 1755 pattern. It is correct in seal horse (incredible hide! incredible HH smell) and has the yummy purple knits! Triple marked Talon should be correct. The only thing lacking for you would be the collar stand. Collar stands aren't all they're cracked up to be! I own this jacket and it is by far the most comfortable and wearable pattern of all the A-2s I own. My stable currently consists of 7 Good Wear A-2s (I know I'm a pig! You just get hooked on these things, honest! Selling them on is like selling your children), but the 1755 is my go to jacket. I always have loved the look of a collar stand, but they just aren't that comfortable. The 1755 has a nice neat look to it, without an overwhelming collar as some patterns like the RW 1401-P. Most of my GW jackets have a collar stand, which I love, but the collar on the 1755 is just that much nicer! I tried out and sold on a couple of ELC 1401-P's, and they just didn't get the collar right - John does, but I still prefer the collar on the 1755. You can wear it snapped or unsnapped, looks good either way.
You will not be disappointed! Look at John's pics of current production on his site for the 1755. Did I say you will not be disappointed?

 

[ButteMT61]

It's impossible. I finally decided to just stop looking at John's site for a while. I figured I'd just decide which one is first rather than sweat it. There's too many good designs stow prey too much. No matter how much you love it, you'll be planning the next one soon enough

 

[unclegrumpy]

The biggest noticeable difference between the two Dubow contracts is the collar. The Dubow 20960's collar is similar to the Werber, RW, Aero, and other earlier contracts. The Dubow 27798 is pointier and cut to lay flatter, rather than stand up. There seems to be a love hate relationship between the two styles.

I have a Dubow 20960, and it is a great fitting jacket and a classic pattern. If John is pointing you to this contract, it is probably for good reason. Picking a jacket can be tough, so get what color, leather, and features you personally like best, and don't worry about it.

 

[bretron]

I'm kinda in the same boat, but reiterate many of the points made here and elsewhere: if you're buying a GW, get it period accurate. decide what you want most out of your contract (color of hide, knits, and thread; plus contract-specific details like collar stand, zipper type, and sleeve construction) and trust that john will nail the fit.

I have been struggling between a 38 Aero (because of the fit, collar stand and Hookless zipper) and the 27798 Dubow (because of the amazing color options). I've decided that I value the color options most, because I'm trying to create a look that is totally different from my (only- at least for now ) other A2. If I went with the Aero I'm afraid I'd have two too similarly looking jackets in my closet.

All that to say, go with John's advice! :lol: :lol:

 

[Dr H]

+1
Unless you have a strong preference trust John's judgement - he's handling many jackets. If you're lucky enough to own more than one then perhaps aim for extremes: collars (Perry, Doniger/Knopf, A-1), hides: goat, horse, cape; colour: seal, russet...?

 

[JWS4]

Thank you all for the input, it is down to the 2960 or 1775 Dubow. Leaning more towards the 1775 since hide and zipper would be historically correct. Still like that collar stand detail. John does not list any history or characteristic on this model, anyone have any info to share? Thank you.

 

[Roughwear]

The 1755 Dubow would be a good choice, but I would not reject the 27798 contract. Most original 1755 Dubows were made in the size 36-40 range as replacements for previously issued jackets in 1944, whilst the 27798 contract covered all sizes.