G-1 Information

Discussion in 'General Flight Jacket Discussion' started by Brent, Jun 20, 2018.

  1. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    This information is from Roger Moore's old web site.

    1950s G-1 Jackets





    As noted above the first G-1 spec was the 55J14 which was manufactured from 1947 to 1961. These jackets very collectible and only slightly less desireable than the earlier M-422A jackets. The 55J14 typically have shorter bodies than the M-422A and many have a snugger fit for their stated size. All of these jackets retain the painted "USN" stencil under the mouton collar.

    G-1, Spec 55J14

    In 1951 or thereabouts the MIL spec jackets were introduced starting with the MIL-J-7823(AER). All of the jackets in the 1950s, save the 1951 55J14, had this specification. As with the earlier jackets the manaufacturers apparently were given much leeway in the cut and sizing of these jackets. It is interesting to note that even among the same contrcat and manufacturer there was often large differences in sizing so if you buy one of these to wear...make sure you check the measurements!

    G-1, MIL-J-7823(Aer)




    1960s G-1 Jackets




    In 1961 the A (MIL-J-7823A) series jacket was introduced and only two manufacturers had contracts: Ralph Edwards Sportswear and Irvin B. Foster. The A series is the scarcest of 7823 series and are noted for having awesome goatskin and collars that fade to a nice honey rust color.

    G-1, MIL-J-7823A

    In late 1961 the B series was introduced and lasted until the end of 1963. The 1961 B series is probably one of the hardest 7823 jackets to find. I am fortunate to have a great original example!

    G-1, MIL-J-7823B

    In 1964 the C series (7823C) was introduced and lasted until the end of 1967. These are often considered by collectors to be the last of the "good" jackets as they are the last to universally have the motoun collar. In addition, the early C series jackets used the traditional single ply rib rack waistband but some of the laters Cs and all of the Ds and Es use the inferior folded over two ply waistband.

    G-1, MIL-J-7823C

    In 1968 the D series was introduced and many (but not all had a fake fur collar instead of the mouton used in all of the earlier jackets. The jackets were still goatskin but are very common and therefore not all that collectible. Although they do make great everyday wearers, I have only included one for reference

    G-1, MIL-J-7823D

    In 1971 or 72 the E series was introduced and persists until today. The spec was opened up to allow the use of cowhide (vs. the goatskin of all of the earlier jackets). As a result, while these make great wearers they are not collectible and I do not have any on this web site.
     
    Kennyz and Lorenzol like this.
  2. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    PHARR BRAND NAME APPAREL SP0100-04-D-4247-0001 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    EXCELLED SHEEPSKIN & LEATHER COAT CO. SP0 100-04-4119 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    EXCELLED SHEEPSKIN & LEATHER COAT CO. SPO 100-99-D-5076-0001 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    SCHOTT BROS., INC. SPO100-98-C-5015 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC SPO-100-96-C-4015 MIL-J-7823E
    COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC SPO-100-95-M-SH82 MIL-J-7823E
    COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO. INC DLA100-92-C-0454 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC DLA100-91-C-0323 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC DLA100-89-C-0480 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DLA100-87-C-0739
    ORCHARD M/C DIST. INC. DLA100-86-C-0481 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DLA100-86-C-0451 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. DLA100-84-C-0771 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DLA100-82-C-0564 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. DSA100-77-C-1518 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    FERGUSON OF OKLAHOMA DSA100-76-C-1788 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    IMPERIAL LEATHER & SPORTSWEAR INC. DSA100-76-C-1788 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    IMPERIAL LEATHER & SPORTSWEAR INC. DSA100-76-C-0375 MIL - J 7823E(AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DSA100-75-C-0332 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-75-C-0331 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    IMPERIAL FASHIONS, INC. DSA100-74-0162 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DSA-73-C-0035 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-73-C-0034 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DSA-72-C1138 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-72-C-0060 MIL-J-7823E(AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-71-C-1343 MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. DSA100-71-C-0535 MIL-J-7823D(WP)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-71-C-0141 MIL-J-7823C(WP)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. NONE ON TAG MIL-J-7823E (AS)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-70-C-0484 MIL-J-7823D(WP)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-70-C-0483 MIL-J-7823D(WP)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA 100-70-C-0475 MIL-J-7823D(WP)
    THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC. DSA 100-69-C-1545 MIL-J-7823D (WP)
    BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-68-C-1805 MIL-J-7823D (WP)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA 100-68-C-0759 MIL-J-7823D (WP)
    THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC. DSA 100-68-C-0099 MIL-J-7823D (WP)
    GREGORY SPORTSWEAR INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA 100-67-C-3929 SPEC.MIL-J-7823D(WEP)
    GREGORY SPORTSWEAR INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA 100-67-C-3928 SPEC.MIL-J-7823D(WEP)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPRTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-5366 SPEC.MIL-J-7823D (WEP)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA 100-67-C-1095 SPEC.MIL-J-7823D(WEP)
     
  3. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8826 SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP)
    IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8825 SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP)
    IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-10003081 SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP)
    IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-598 SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPRTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-4342-64-C SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPRTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-9365 SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-3271-64-C SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP) W/E
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA 100-599 SPEC.MIL-J-7823C (WEP)
    IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-2071-63-C SPEC.MIL-J-7823B(WEP)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO.DSA- -1040-63-C SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823B(WEP)
    IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-435-C-62 SPEC.MIL-J-7823B(WEP)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 10276-C-61 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823B(WEP)
    IRVIN B.FOSTER&SONS SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT NO. DA 36-243-QM(CTM)8834-C-61 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823A(AER)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823A(AER)
    BREIER OF AMSTERDAM, INC. QM(CTM)6837-C-60 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823(AER)
    CALIFORNIA SPORTSWEAR COMPANY CONTRACT #QM(CTM)4771-E-60 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONT QM(CTM)-144-O.I.-2515-E-57 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383-39321A SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383-28657A SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383s-14722A SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383s-9211A SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    J.A.DUBOW SPORTING GOODS CORP. CONTRACT NO. N383S-4833A SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    J.A.DUBOW SPORTING GOODS CORP. CONTRACT NO. N383S-4765A SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
     
  4. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    L.W. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO, INC. CONTRACT N383-22356A SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823(AER) & AMEND. #2
    L.W. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT NO.DA-36-243-QM(CTM)2312 SPECIFICATION NO. MIL-J-7823(AER)
    L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC CONTRACT NO. DA-36-243-QM(CTM)2134 SPECIFICATION NO. MIL-J-7823(AER)
    L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC CONTRACT NO.N383s-74471 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823(AER)
    MONARCH MFG. CO. CONTRACT NO. N383s-80667 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO. QM.(CTM)-2313 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823 (AER)
    WERBER SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO.383S-88886 SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823(AER)
    A. PRITZKER & SONS, INC. CONTRACT NO.N383S-69537 SPEC. 55J14 (AER)
    AVIATORS CLOTHING CO., INC. CONTRACT NO. N-383s-22111 SPEC. 55J14(AER)
    B.-G. INC. CONTRACT NO. 383s-25923 SPEC. 55J14 (AER)
    BURJAC SPORTSWEAR INC. CONTRACT No N383s-5299 SPECIFICATION 55J14 (AER)
    L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC. CONTRACT NO.N-383s-96273 SPEC. 55J14 (AER)
    L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC. CONTRACT NO. N383s-13120 SPEC. 55J14 (AER)
    L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC. CONTRACT NO. N383s-20445 SPEC. 55J14 (AER)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. LYNN, MASS. CONTRACT NO. N383S-39943 SPEC. 55J14 (AER)
    STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. LYNN, MASS. CONTRACT NO. N383S-51863 SPEC. 55J14 (AER)
    BURJAC SPORTSWEAR INC. CONTRACT #N288s-24369 SPECIFICATION AN-J3A
    BURJAC SPORTSWEAR INC. CONTRACT #N288s-24368 SPECIFICATION AN-J3A
    L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO.INC. CONT. NO. N383s1035 AN-J-3a
    MONARCH MFG.CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT NO. N288s-20570 SPECIFICATION AN-J-3A
    MONARCH MFG. CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT NO. N288S-28665 SPECIFICATION AN-J-3A
    ARNOFF MFG. COMPANY CONTRACT NO. N288 S-24248 TYPE AN-J-3A
    WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-N288s-35805 SPEC. AN-J-3A
     
  5. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT -N288S32357 AN 6552-38
    WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT -N288S28628 AN 6552-40
    H.& L.BLOCK CONTRACT NO.N288s-20559 AN 6552
    EDMUND T.CHURCH CO. INC. CONTRACT No. NXs-5133 SPECIFICATION M - 422 A
    FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1405-A SPECIFICATION M - 422 A
    FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1406 EXT.A SPECIFICATION M - 422 A
    GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. 88860 SPECIFICATION M 422A
    GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. NXs.416-A SPECIFICATION M-422 A
    GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. NXs.416 SPECIFICATION M-422 A
    H.&L. BLOCK CONTRACT No. Nxsa-5134 SPECIFICATION M-422a
    WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-Nos.290A SPECIFICATION M 422A
    WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-N Xs-290 SPECIFICATION M 422a
    WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. S-74892 SPECIFICATION M 422
    Monarch Mfg. Company CONTRACT-No. 79633 SPECIFICATION M-422

    If you find a USN jacket with a label attached information as with one seen above then chances are it's the real thing!

    These same vintage reproduction flight jackets like yours show up more often than you might think. This is not the first one that I have seen. They wear the same as the original but simply not as collectable.
     
  6. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    The makers of the Navy's jackets of the above specifications, in rough chronological order from the current supplier to pre-WWII include

    1. PHARR BRAND NAME APPAREL (2004-current supplier),

    2. EXCELLED SHEEPSKIN & LEATHER COAT CO., 1999–2004,

    3. SCHOTT BROS., INC., 1998,

    4. COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC, 1989–1996,

    5. BRILL BROS., INC., 1968–1987,

    6. ORCHARD M/C DIST. INC., 1986,

    7. FERGUSON OF OKLAHOMA, 1976,

    8. IMPERIAL LEATHER & SPORTSWEAR INC., 1976,

    9. IMPERIAL FASHIONS, INC., 1974,

    10. THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC., 1968–1969,

    11. GREGORY SPORTSWEAR INC., 1967,

    12. IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO., 1962–1963,

    13. STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP., 1964–1967,

    14. IRVIN B.FOSTER&SONS SPORTSWEAR CO., INC., 1961,

    15. RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, 1961–1964,

    16. BREIER OF AMSTERDAM, INC., 1960,

    17. CALIFORNIA SPORTSWEAR COMPANY, 1960,

    18. CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR, 1957,

    19. J.A.DUBOW SPORTING GOODS CORP.,

    20. WERBER SPORTSWEAR, INC.,

    21. A. PRITZKER & SONS, INC.,

    22. AVIATORS CLOTHING CO., INC.,

    23. B.-G. INC.,

    24. STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. LYNN, MASS.,

    25. BURJAC SPORTSWEAR INC.,

    26. L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO.INC.,

    27. ARNOFF MFG. COMPANY,

    28. AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR CO.,

    29. BOGEN & TENENBAUM,

    30. EDMUND T.CHURCH CO. INC.,

    31. FRIED, OSTERMAN CO.,

    32. GORDON & FERGUSON CO.,

    33. H.&L. BLOCK,

    34. WILLIS AND GEIGER INC.,

    35. Monarch Mfg. Company.

    36. Menthor Jackets Peru.

     
  7. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    MIL-J-7823E(AS) 1971

    MIL-J-7823D(WP) 1966

    MIL-J-7823C (WEP) 1962

    MIL-J-7823B(WEP)1960

    MIL-J-7823A(AER) 1958

    MIL-J-7823(AER) 1951

    55J14 (AER) 1947

    AN-J3A 1943

    AN 6552 1943

    M-422A 1940

    M-422 1940
     
  8. Brettafett

    Brettafett Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    381
    Location:
    LONDON
    Wow. Thanks Brent..... So, M422A also produced in 1940, or is this a guesstimate... Interesting...
     
  9. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    I really can't confirm any of this info, I just downloaded it all a while back. I will say some of the dates overlap a bit and I find that strange.

    Regards,
     
  10. Lorenzol

    Lorenzol Active Member

    Messages:
    117
    Location:
    Geneva, Switzerland
    Hi Brent,

    Many thanks for sharing the info. Useful and much appreciated!
     
  11. Carl

    Carl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    534
    If you can get me the manufacturers and contract #'s i might be able to help with contract details for jackets between 41 and 45 .

    Carl
     
  12. Brent

    Brent Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Olathe, KS
    The fifth post above list the contract numbers for the M-422, M-422A and AN 6552. The fourth post has the numbers for the AN-J3A. That is all the information I possess.

    Regards,
     
  13. Roughwear

    Roughwear Well-Known Member

    All the contracts up to 1977 are in Full Gear, with the fiscal year of each contract. The first M442 jacket was made in the 1940 fiscal year, N156s 16957, Willis and Geiger. The first M422A contract 85956 was awarded to Monarch in the 1941 fiscal year. The precise day/month of each contract is not given.
     
  14. Carl

    Carl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    534
    Brent , thankyou for that heads up , ill try and get contract award dates etc posted as and whn i find them , not all contracts will be listed , but hopefully a majority will be !

    Carl
     
  15. Cajunk

    Cajunk New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    SE USA
    Hey, all! New to the forums, and my longtime interest the G-1 is what led me here. Is Pharr still the current supplier? I figured you'd see more of them selling online if they've been in the game since '04. Rumor has it that Cockpit supplies them now as well? I apologize in advance for all of the noob questions...
     
  16. Jetty0811

    Jetty0811 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    My wife recently bought a G-1 from a second hand store and I'm trying to track down it's history. It an Excelled, MIL-J-7823 E (AS). The tag does not include an NSN and the contract # is unfamiliar to me. It is 1958-G1-8. The jacket has the collar tab and button and the jacket itself is not brown, but black. Is this some kind of repro, or just something I can't seem to find an image of? Also, on the small tag at the bottom of the liner is written what appears to be a service number, so again, I'm assuming that would make this jacket older than when the military started using SSNs for identification.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. robrinay

    robrinay Member

    Messages:
    364
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    You’re right it’s a repro. The comprehensive lists at the beginning of this thread are handy reference guides for ‘genuine’ USN issue jackets.
     
  18. Jetty0811

    Jetty0811 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    well shoot. It’s a nice jacket, I was just hoping it was legit.
     
  19. robrinay

    robrinay Member

    Messages:
    364
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    Quite a few of the reproductions are very nice jackets and they have the added advantage of not smelling strangely not having hardened cracked areas, moth eaten knits, fragile zippers etc etc. - but it feels so good to own an original ‘black label’ with a real mouton collar -and to have a good repro too.
     
  20. Steve27752

    Steve27752 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,590
    Location:
    Berkshire, U.K.

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