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Everything Vintage Irvins

Peter Graham

Well-Known Member
Just had a quick flick there. I posted pics on page one five years ago. I look like a different person. Modern life is stressful. :eek:
 

PADDY_M

Well-Known Member
A shame so many of the posted photos have disappeared here as it was a source of pleasure seeing all these wonderful sheepskins & using them as reference material too.
 

regius

Active Member
Roughwear, this is my first original RAF, cuff zippers are DOT, main zip been replaced with a lighning non-rivet, rivet holes are still visible. No label, four panel, fleece is like Devon fleece, crispy leather finish.
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Has anyone seen this cool looking pin attached to an irvin or any RAF kit before?

IRVIN.png
 

Bombing IP

Well-Known Member
Its just a promotional pin sell between $9 - $35 ,now if you have the other pin given out by Irvin the 9kt caterpillar pin then you have something the eyes are ruby . Irvin still today keep the recipients of the caterpillar secret and will not give out that information .You only got it if you had to parachute out of a disabled aircraft these rang in price from $800 to $1500 .

BIP
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Its just a promotional pin sell between $9 - $35 ,now if you have the other pin given out by Irvin the 9kt caterpillar pin then you have something the eyes are ruby . Irvin still today keep the recipients of the caterpillar secret and will not give out that information .You only got it if you had to parachute out of a disabled aircraft these rang in price from $800 to $1500 .

BIP
Thanks for the history, but could really care less what it's worth.
 

Bombing IP

Well-Known Member
There not much to say about the pin ,its just promotional . Grant did you see the post on the jeans festival in NY ? under related gear .
BIP
 
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Paulgo253

New Member
After spending much time reading these fine boards I thought it was about time I got my finger out and made my fist post, especially as Irvin weather seems to be finally on the way next week. This is the latest addition to my very small collection of jackets - and I’m hoping to get some information about who might have made it. I bought it quite reasonably in late spring as a bit of a fixer upper - but it turned out to be in better condition that I had originally thought.

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It's a far from prime example and has seen some action I would think and certainly wears it’s history - but it’s generally in very good order. It’s an early war two panel with a lovely coppery, close pile fleece and is generally very sound overall and study enough to be a good, wearable jacket, with care of course. It’s a good size too – I’m around a 42” chest and there’s loads of room, so I think it’s probably a size 6.

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It did come with some issues. Although the original main zip is still present and in good condition, for some inexplicable reason the bucket collector was missing, which is very odd. I can’t work out if it’s be deliberately removed or lost somehow during use, along with the original slider. The remainder of the zip itself is in very good condition so I really wanted to avoid having to replace it, or at least one side anyway, if possible.

Fortunately, I had a collector I could use from the lower part of a broken main zip which I’d kept when it was been replaced on another jacket. By trimming it to size I’ve managed to successfully graft this onto the bottom of the zip. Luckily, no teeth were missing from the remaining part of the zip, otherwise there would have been issues getting it to work. It has to be handled with care, especially when starting off, but once it’s away it works excellently and I’m happy to live with it like that for now. I’m using a replacement single trunnion runner with an original leather pull from a scrap pair of early war IAC Irvin trousers.

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The skin is quite robust but the surface is cracked in places, the right shoulder in particular is a little tender, so it benefited from a good feeding of Pecards which was transformational. This was especially noticeable on the front of the jacket which has seen most wear and lost of a lot of the original surface colouring. The sleeves also have a bit of scuffing and is worn in places, but it all adds character. The sleeve sliders are both original DOT Made in England double trunnion and work without issue. One has retained it’s original leather pull which I used as a template to produce a replacement for the other from some scrap Irvin trouser pockets.

The fleece has a nice thick pile with a leather hanging chain that was detached at one side and now re-stitched. The trimming to the cuffs and bottom of the jacket has the usual evidence of wear in places but is generally quite good. The jacket also has it’s original elastic strap attached to the back of the collar, although this is somewhat stretched, but otherwise in good condition.

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So, I’m really keen to identify the manufacturer and to narrow down to date for the jacket.as much as possible. The different house styles fascinate and I love trying to work out the clues to a manufactures identify. Generally, to my eye this jacket seems to have been very well made, compared to my mid-war Links jackets for example, with neat stitching and seam taping and a leather hanging strap - which I know can sometimes be an indicator of a higher quality jacket. It’s got a large, squarish collar with what I think are smaller collar rings and I’m wondering if it’s an IAC jacket. Many of the usual identifying clues are missing in their original form, such as the belt loops and main zip slider and bucket stamp. The other potential clue is air vent hole configuration which seems quite distinctive and has 8 holes. This looks the same as some pics I’ve seen vents on IAC jackets, but could be Wareings I suppose. I've scoured examples but I'm not sufficiently expert to make a call!

Date wise, it seems to be an example of an early war Irvin. Both sleeve zips are original and are of the earlier DOT England double trunnion variety, potentially indicating a date of manufacture before late 1940 when I believe crown stamped AM zips began to be used. There’s also a lot of ‘redskin’ pinking present on the skin, evidence of the vegetable tanning process that I believe was only used early Irvin war jackets.

Here's some pics that might help starting with the collar:

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vent hole configuration
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collar loops
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leather hanging strap
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sleeve arm end tapes
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DOT made in England double trunnion slider and original leather pull
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some evidence of pinking - like a rare-done bit of beef!
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slider close up
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stitching generally looks high quality to me
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Any thoughts date and contractor chaps?!
 

Roughwear

Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum Paul. Your Irvin dates to 1938-39 and was not made by one the main makers IMO. I have seen several jackets from this yet unidentified maker, but none with a name on the labels.
 

Paulgo253

New Member
Thanks for the info AndrewI wasnt expecting that! Intriguing! I wonder who this manufacturer could be? The differences between contractors and their house styles really fascinates me and it's been fun trying to work out the clues for this one, though all I did was confuse myself! You need to finish your book! Chuffed to see how early the jacket is too and that it's possibly pre war.
 
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