early 1940s 2 tone aviator jacket

Discussion in 'Repros' started by Geeboo, Jun 25, 2017.

  1. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Hi,
    I am new here. I tried to make it with the following in mind:
    1) close to possible of era design, pattern and use of metal-ware & buttons
    2) to make jackets that I can't buy vintage because either:
    2.1) not fit size
    2.2) not favorite color
    2.3) extremely rare that do not come off often
    A few other styles in the making [As an amateur, I am just responsible for the design & material sourcing, I pass the material to a tailor to sewn it for me] . I hope to share it with like-minded people here in the forum. :)
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    Last edited: Jun 26, 2017
    Technonut2112 and ButteMT61 like this.
  2. Steve27752

    Steve27752 Well-Known Member

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    1,178
    Location:
    Berkshire, U.K.
  3. johnwayne

    johnwayne Active Member

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    Different I'll give you that! Rather than an 'aviator' this to me looks more biker style and the colour plus back seams give it a 'cowboy/western' look. Not for me personally but looks nicely made, well done.
     
  4. Bombing IP

    Bombing IP Active Member

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    The jacket needs a little fine tuning with regards to positioning , the D pocket facing edge to the zipper should be parallel to the zip collar and the smaller pocket is out of position .The bottom of the jacket is not square to the nor does it line up with the back .The main zip and the leather appear to be tapering wider to the bottom . The jacket is a real Beastie challenge to make with all the cuts shapes and back pleating ,sometimes less is more . I applaud you for your effort but your tailor need to practice more with leather I suspect .
    Welcome aboard some of us are critical .

    Bip
     
    Ken at Aero Leather likes this.
  5. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
    19
    some originals for your reference:) Pls note it is my wish to make an exact replica of the model, which is a 30s to early 40's maxi. aviator style [not biker - no belt loop, no sleeves zip, no collar snap bttns - which is a later variant]; with a very tiny twist of my own. Every details, I mean every, had been taken care of to my best effort. It is not a mere leather jacket or a Frankenstein jacket. FYI, fan pattern pleat or its variant is a Major characteristics of 30's leather jackets.
    P.S. I am from Hong Kong & have 30 years of experiences in vintage wear.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 26, 2017
  6. Steve27752

    Steve27752 Well-Known Member

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    1,178
    Location:
    Berkshire, U.K.
    My first thought was a 'Biker' jacket.
     
  7. Silver Surfer

    Silver Surfer Well-Known Member

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    1,974
    not too shabby, not too shabby at all. details, details, details, the devil is in the details...it is said. imo, the jacket looks very well thought out, and well put together.
     
    bseal likes this.
  8. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

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    19
    #7 thanks pal:)
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2017
  9. MikeyB-17

    MikeyB-17 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,705
    Location:
    Cornwall, UK
    I think it's stunning. Wouldn't be my choice of colour, and I also agree it looks far more biker than aviator, but it's beautiful and I'd wear it.
     
    bseal likes this.
  10. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
    19
    #9 Tks mate.
    A few more photos FYI.
    this 30's Aviator style is often said to be the ancestor of early D pocket biker - THE DIFFERENCES are [they are indeed very similar]:
    1) no belt loop
    2) no sleeves zippers
    3) no collar & lapel snap button

    4) no epaulette shoulder strap
    5) Biker often have plain back with action side pleat sometimes - no fan pattern pleat
    6) Biker are often without side belt adjuster
     

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    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
  11. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Active Member

    Messages:
    221
    Interesting design, not unsimilar to one we've made off and on for nearly 30 years.

    Please don't take this wrongly but the make-up looks to me to be done by a decent tailor but one un-familiar with sewing leather?
     
  12. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Dear Ken
    U got it. Decent tailor but un-familiar with sewing leather - what can be improved ?
     
  13. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Active Member

    Messages:
    221

    Find a leather tailor.
    It's a very difficult transition from cloth to leather, so many of the "rules" don't apply, many cloth techniques result in a poor end product if used on leather.
    All the best machinists at Aero started from scratch on leather. Those with previous cloth experience never reached the levels of those who never worked in cloth.

    It's hard to teach an old dog new tricks!!!
     
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  14. Bombing IP

    Bombing IP Active Member

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    441
    I suspect John Chapman started without previous cloth experience .


    Bip
     
  15. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
    19
    I know nothing about tailoring. But do like to make myself little DIY like leather bags, suspenders, etc.
    For example, for each jacket I commissioned, I would make on waste cloth a pattern [sew together by hand, my hand job is awful !] to perceive the look myself to see anything needed to be adjusted - especially the Proportion - before passing to my tailor. This act surely had helped the outcome - much closer to my expectation.
    Although I literally give the tailor a "booklet" containing about tens of images of that jacket I want to make with very detailed description and explanation [most tailor do not like my order as I am too troublesome :<], as makers know this, I am sometimes frustrated by the execution of the tailor/ maker even though I can think of the details; the outcome sometimes deviates due to lack of proper machine, proper tools, past experiences and/or knowledge about a particular cut/ pattern and Most important of all - the lack of sense of art by most, if not all tailors.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2017
  16. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
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    Hi
    I want to ask does a 2 pcs or 3 pcs sleeves matter or just a matter of amount of leather available [ 2 pcs requires more leather] ?
    Tks
     
  17. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Active Member

    Messages:
    221
    Originally I'm sure it was to save leather, like the short curved neck area facing so popular in the 1930s, cloth lined cuffs, corduroy collar backing etc. The saving of leather on the sleeve is minimal but vintage US style civvy jackets just "look wrong" without the seam.
    I've never seen this undersleeve seam on vintage European leathers

    BTW Do you give your tailor a ready to use pattern?
     
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  18. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Tks for getting back. While there are way more jackets with that sleeves seam, I am showing a few without [ in this style, there are half belt specimen that are without as well]- all are real vintage & are US Civilian jkts in the 30's.
    I start to agree with you can't teach an old dog with new tricks now : > - just kidding. Don't get it wrong, I do respect U as a Guru in leather jkt making.
    I give him the whole dummy jacket as shown above & a lot of photos. As a proficient tailor , I have asked him to alter my pattern [of course retaining my size & a few proportions and features that I think is important] because in some areas like armhole, my pattern are horrible - I know that.
    P.S. What is " short curved neck area facing " ?
     

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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2017
  19. Geeboo

    Geeboo New Member

    Messages:
    19
    also showing a freewheelers' jacket in this style - which is also without the sleeves seam. While I know one must not use a copycat as a reference point, just showing it to illustrate the matter from different angles.
     

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  20. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,746
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Nice job! It must take a lot of patience to allow someone else to sew up your designs. You might have your tailor lighten up on the stitch length a bit - for longevity if for nothing else.
    Keep up the good work!
    Dave
     
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