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Can U Compare Rough Wear contracts?

RayR

Member
My learning curve continues :arrow: into the world of Rough Wear. My first authentic wartime A-2 is a beautiful Bronco 29191. Great undamaged leather original Crown zip, knits, and lining. I really got lucky. And in sz 42 it fits great...almost. And after it's hand rubbing with Picards, it really came to life. I can wear it but at 22" pit to pit it's just a bit tight around the chest.

Ba_zps3cda4c4d.jpg





Next up, another lucky stroke. I got a Rough Wear 1401P Perfect leather just starting to show loss of color and go a bit dry, but NO damage. Previous owner ruined the repairs. Poorly stitched in the wrong liner. Put in a plastic replacement zipper that doesn't even extend to the bottom. And cuffs that are way too long. (All that will be professionally repaired) Here it is:

RWa_zps890b2b0e.jpg


Seems to have been an overcast day. This next pic is in afternoon light. This is a few days after it's had a treatment with Obeanufs Leather Oil followed by Picards Leather Cream. Picards was heated to liquid and hand rubbed in. Both products mention the possibility of slightly darkening the leather. I have experience with them both and know what to expect. Not much "darkening" but more reviving the original color:

RWb_zps1cb4c3d9.jpg



Finally to the point. The RW fits like it was made for me (nearly). Very comfortable. In fact I liken it to a goatskin 80's issue Cooper A-2 (I'm now selling on eBay) except, while it has that more roomy feel, it doesn't look baggy like modern cuts tend to.

My question, my need to know, is...what is the difference in the 3 Rough Wear contracts in the details like cut, collar, and fit?

This 1401 in sz 42 is 23" across pit to pit, the Bronco is 22". That accounts for the better range of motion, but so does the cut of the leather in it's design. What I love about the Bronco most is the sharp shoulders and the trim collar (no collar stand either). What I don't love about the Rough Wear is the Large collar and it feels just a bit shorter than I prefer.

So there you have it, Please tell me about the different Rough Wear cuts 1401P, 18091, and 27752 compared to one another.

RWc_zps23d404d1.jpg
 

Roughwear

Well-Known Member
Ray,
Rough Wear used the same basic pattern for all five contracts from 1940 to 1942, though there are often some small details which are specific to each contract, such as the size of the pocket flaps and the type/model of zip used. The best source of information is Gary Eastman's Flight Jacket manual, where each jacket is presented in such a way that comparison is straightforward.
 

RayR

Member
Ruffwear, I should have known you would have an answer, lol I even consider direct messaging you. I've been avoiding getting that book because it's so incredibly expensive, but it's looking more and more like it's something I have to have if I'm serious about knowing my A - 2. Thanks!
 

Roughwear

Well-Known Member
Ray, I currently own jackets from all bar the penultimate contract. The W535ac16159 contract (2 Nov 1940 for 9.700 jackets), the 42-1401-P Rough Wear (8 August 1941 for 30,000 jackets) and the W535ac27752 contract (27 April 1942 for 50,000 jackets) were made from horsehide. The W535ac18091 contract (6 March 1941 for 17,628 jackets) was made entirely from goatskin and the W535ac23380 contract (26 Dec 1941 for 12,000 jackets) was made from cowhide. Eastman's book is really worth getting hold of as it goes in to detail about the contracts, the production of A2s, the leather used and much more.

Here are links to threads showing examples of jackets from all five contracts.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8072
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16590
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=253
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5057
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=161
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16591
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7855&start=10
 

RayR

Member
awesome reply, Andrew. I just ordered the book. I can't believe they say up to 10 weeks for delivery. Oh well, it gets here when it gets here. Here being the US.
 
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