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Buzz Rickson's 37J1

asiamiles

Well-Known Member
I already owned a Buzz Rickson 37J1 in a 38; it's one of my favourite jackets, though I do find it just a tad tight around the top of the arms, possibly as much due to the pre-war cut as the size, and would probably struggle to wear anything more than a t-shirt or thin shirt beneath it. I'd since tried on a RM 37J1a in a 40 but that was too big and was also cut differently...it didn't seem to have that extra length that makes the 37J1 more wearable than many other flight jackets. So when I spotted a Buzz a size up (ie. a 40) on Yahoo.jp, I decided to go for it.

When it arrived I was little surprised. While it's a reproduction of the same Aero original (they even have the same name tag) it is from a different production run and I noticed 3 differences right off the bat. One, the zipper is a (pre-war, I think) Talon rather than a Hookless. Two, the arms are cut much wider. Three, the colour looks much closer to the original pictured in the "vintage flight jacket pictorial" in the 2003 BR catalogue; my 38 is the same colour as my N-1 deck jacket, but I'm wondering if Buzz concluded that the colour of their Aero had actually changed from how it originally was when new and so decided to go with the green? That said, I'm only guessing that the 38 is the later model (it's model number is BR10395 and is listed in their 2003 catalogue as being available in both Non Wash and One Wash; the model number of the 40 is M13199) because of the Hookless zipper. A couple of other minor differences: the labels read the same but are different, and the hanger of the 38 is sewn over rather than above the label...on the original it's above the label.
buzz37j1.jpg
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Beautiful jacket! A couple years ago Larry from Heller's Cafe (high end vintage clothing collector) showed me an original 37J1 he had in his collection. Your Buzz repros look like a faithful reproduction- wish I could find one in my size.

Grant
 

asiamiles

Well-Known Member
According to the Buzz 2003 catalog they went upto a 44, though I would imagine very few in that size were made. They rarely come up on the secondary market in any size, though oddly when they do there isn't that much competition for them...I guess they weren't the hit with the Japanese buyers that, say, patched nylons are, which is presumably why Buzz don't make them anymore, though RM were still doing their 37J1a last year.
 
I'd need a 46, which leaves me hoping that a Willis & Geiger version comes up on Ebay. I've only seen one in my size come up before and it went for quite a lot. I don't know how good they are either.
 

asiamiles

Well-Known Member
rick.canavar said:
I'd need a 46.

I just checked and RM only do upto a 44 in their 37J1a as well, though their 40 was a lot roomier than BR's 40, so that might do the job, but I imagine they would be almost as hard to find in such a large size as a BR and whenever I've seen them come up on he secondary market they've gone for quite high prices, as RM's inevitably do in Japan.
 

zoomer

Well-Known Member
I've about given up on ever having one of these (unless another one of those W&Gs comes up!), but it looks fantastic. More pix please! :D
 

yankee air pirate

New Member
I have seen color differences before in buzz stuff too. Both the BR tankers I have bought are different colors. The size 40 is tan/khaki with a green hint while the size 42 is a darker mustardy brown in appearance and the 42 is also 1 cm shorter in length than the 40 (go figure). Lining and knits are identical though. But if any one ever comes accross a 42 in the BR 37j1 give me a ring.
 

zoomer

Well-Known Member
It might be useful now to repost this pic from the last forum:
James Cagney as a Marine aviator in 1935's Devil Dogs of the Air.
p130a.jpg

He's obviously wearing some variant of the 37J - note the pocket.
The collar has latch straps and some posters thought the material might be leather.

This DVD cover art gives an even better picture.
2399345606_3d12fc2898.jpg

Jacket is green, but the photo would have to have been hand tinted.
Not much better view of the collar latches.
The fine ripples around the zip seam make me think it's probably NOT leather.
 

airfrogusmc

Well-Known Member
The mail order Willis & Gieger made a decent one for like $100 in the mid 90s. I had one it was just a little to tight.

I think Skip had or has one of the W&Gs
 

yankee air pirate

New Member
I had the w&g version for many years and it was good but the knit were some crappy cotton blend that wore out. The rest of the jacket made a great light weight spring/summer wearer.
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Great shot of Cagney wearing a 37J1 - it fits him perfect.
Anyone know when the 37J1 ended production?
 

zoomer

Well-Known Member
No one who's talkin'...

The website for the Full Gear book has this list of Navy clothing types pre-war.

U.S.NAVY (late1920's-)
# A-1 jacket
# A-3 suit
# B-1 suit (Mechanics)
# B-7 suit
# 37J1 jacket
# 37S3 suit
# 37S4 suit
# 37S5 suit

U.S.NAVY (1930's-)
# 37J1 (A, B) jacket
# M-375 jacket
# 37S3 (A, B) suit
# M-384 suit
# S89 suit
 

asiamiles

Well-Known Member
yankee air pirate said:
I have seen color differences before in buzz stuff too. Both the BR tankers I have bought are different colors. The size 40 is tan/khaki with a green hint while the size 42 is a darker mustardy brown in appearance and the 42 is also 1 cm shorter in length than the 40 (go figure). Lining and knits are identical though. But if any one ever comes accross a 42 in the BR 37j1 give me a ring.
Buzz's more "mustardy" coloured Tanker that you mention is probably their "field worn" model; they were copying the colour of an original they had.
 

yankee air pirate

New Member
asiamiles said:
yankee air pirate said:
I have seen color differences before in buzz stuff too. Both the BR tankers I have bought are different colors. The size 40 is tan/khaki with a green hint while the size 42 is a darker mustardy brown in appearance and the 42 is also 1 cm shorter in length than the 40 (go figure). Lining and knits are identical though. But if any one ever comes accross a 42 in the BR 37j1 give me a ring.
Buzz's more "mustardy" coloured Tanker that you mention is probably their "field worn" model; they were copying the colour of an original they had.

Thats what I thought too, but "field worn" had a crown zipper and darker lining while mine has the standard conmar zipper and lining. I also noticed the stiching on one was rougher and crooked way more than the other. Oh well I geuss they wanted to offer variety.
thanks
 
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