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BK proudly presents The A-1 jacket

bseal

Well-Known Member
Dr. H, is there something you want to tell us? Confession is good for the soul.
We grant you transactional immunity for testimony too.
 

Dr H

Well-Known Member
Hello all
The Type A-1 arrived an hour ago (despatched on Thursday I think with a Sunday and a public holiday during that time) - and I put it on to take the dog for a walk.
Images and review to follow, but it was solidly packaged (incurred no handling charges within EU) with a fine card button tag with the image of the jacket upon it was based (nice touch!), spare thread, buttons and strip of leather showing the stitch count for those who count these things...
I'll post a new thread later, but it's an excellent fit and I am delighted with the result. :D
 

bseal

Well-Known Member
I'll probably go to hell for this, but, as I recall any GW or ELC procurement by physician H, led to the good doctor's immediate bombardment of both forums with photos.

There, I said it.

Looking forward to End of Days.
 

ButteMT61

Well-Known Member
bseal said:
I'll probably go to hell for this, but, as I recall any GW or ELC procurement by physician H, led to the good doctor's immediate bombardment of both forums with photos.

There, I said it.

Looking forward to End of Days.

Wanna get a beer?
 

Dr H

Well-Known Member
Sorry for the delay gents, but I've just got back to the office after some leave and there's an extremely busy fortnight ahead both with family events and travelling for work. Not posting much as a consequence at the moment, but once things have settled down I'll sit down and do it justice.
I will say that IMHO the Victory capeskin is the best modern cape that I have worn and a dead ringer (colour/weight/grain) for the seal hide used in my old McGregor/Doniger A-2. It's light but very flexible with great drape. When worn the A-1 feels like a 'leather sweater' and not at all intrusive.
The production pattern is an excellent replica of the Suit Up jacket (with a combination of folded seams and triple stitched raw seams on the sleeves). I've long admired this particular jacket and I'm confident that this new pattern nails it.
The attention to detail was highly impressive - placement of grommets/depth of skirt/size and shape of pockets/seam configuration were all discussed in a stream of e-mails and Platon's eye for detail is a match for my obsessive focus on this jacket. The labels have been especially made for these jackets and are excellent facsimiles.
I specified additional personal tweaks (shape of pocket flaps/fold down collar shape/buttoned waistband/single button and loop knit collar) and all were introduced without complaint and the tailor and I still talk. ;)
I've dealt with the hide and the hardware is equally good: knits are indistinguishable in terms of weight/elasticity on my former GW A-1, lining is also high quality. Buttons are available in two colours (honey and coconut) - I originally specified honey (sweet tooth), but now I've decided that the darker button suits me better. BK have despatched a replacement set for exchange at no cost.
The tailoring is really top notch - I couldn't find any missed stitches and the stitch lines are straight and true (this pattern is not a forgiving one for sloppy tailoring with double/triple stitching). The button holing (a common weak spot) is well executed with keyhole button holes.
I've never had an A-1 tailored for me before (I've had several off the rack ELC jackets and five used/test GW jackets) and hadn't appreciated the difference this would make. I have shorter arms, broader chest/shoulders and I've been extremely lucky with my .50 cal A-1 as it fits so well - others have felt too long in the arm; too short/long in the torso; too snug in shoulders. This jacket is my best fitting - a truly tailored garment. Measurements were despatched to BK and then checked just before production without fuss (I used my a combination of. 50 cal A-1 and Menlo Cossack dimensions and it's worked out perfectly).
Images will follow with a comparison with the ELC and GW jackets, but my .50 cal ELC A-1 is now being prepared for sale.
As John says, it's the benchmark A-1 for me now.
 

Roughwear

Well-Known Member
This is excellent news Ian. It sounds as if BK have made a really first class A-1 repro. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos in due course.
 

Dr H

Well-Known Member
Yes, definitely 1st class in my book.
To give you an insight into customer service hassles/more demanding clients.
Aside from the pattern mods, I sent several period images of my favourite A-1 jackets (including Cary Grant's 37J1 in Angel's With Wings) to match the thickness/level of grain on my jacket. :oops:
 

ButteMT61

Well-Known Member
Ian, did you get buttons all the way down the front, or snaps on the knits? Please take some pics of both button colors too. I know that piece makes a difference in the end. Glad you're happy - look forward to some pics soon.
 
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