Ambitious A-2 Project

[dmar836]

So I'm posting here more for accountability and encouragement to keep at it as much as anything else. Most of my project sit idle - only partially completed.

I am attempting, for the first time, to replicate an A-2. The pattern will be the Roughwear 18091 in a size 42. My reference jacket is the earlier 27752 in a size 44. I will take liberties here and there as my goal is not a perfect replica but rather one that is representative and that I can wear to death!



This will be in cowhide as good HH is not the easiest to come by at my level. I hope it will break in better as well.
I'll be using the G&B wool knits. They are thick, have a decent weave, and should work okay for this project.

The zip is a problem. I have a nice 50's Conmar but it is about 1" too short. The other is a sad repro from Japan - great in pics but horrible in person. It too is short by about 1/2"(thankfully!). I have been advised not to waste an NOS zip on this and that's wise. Unless spot-on why do that? Then again, I don't want to use a modern zip. That part and that of the collar hook is still in the air.



The "zoomers" out there will notice the label is for the 27752 and in a size 44 - perfect for my reference jacket!

I'm sure there will be many headaches and issues - and I'm sure I won't be able to overlook any flaws or fitment issues, even if normal to any A-2. Pessimism is my gift!
We'll see,
Dave

 

[YoungMedic]

Looking forward to seeing it! Best of luck!

 

[devilish]

More power to you. Don't give up.

 

[deand]

You can do it, Dave!








dean

 

[atkins]

Good luck Dave! no pain no gain,right?

 

[dujardin]

a new jacket maker is born

wish you luck and succes on your project

will read your post with interest

 

[fishmeok]

Hello

First things first- What kind of sewing machine do you have? To sew leather you need a compound feed industrial- without it you are heading for hours of frustration followed by bouts of blinding rage and eventually ending up curled on the floor in the fetal position wondering why mommy didn't love you.

Trust me on this.

Cheers
Mark

 

[dmar836]

Thanks everyone for the encouragement. I'll need it more when I hit the bumps after I start stitching the shell. My test hide still has not arrived after two weeks despite "next day shipping". Payment cleared immediately so I'm not sure now long I'll give them before I cancel.

Mark, I have these machines and a few more:

This one has taken some work but runs well. It will foul if allowed to backlash which can be a devastating repair when stitching leather. I think a servo with needle position sensor will fix that.




This one is great for lining. It will do about anything but isn't a walking foot, has no reverse, and is quite fast. Again, a servo would have me using it more.




This one is my favorite to work with but not for leather. It is so smooth and easy to work, no wonder it got the rep it does.



I might buy another newer machine(if the servo/NPS doesn't fix my few woes) and then maybe a double needle as we are planning on doing some airplane interior work on the side in the near future. Certainly larger bobbins are in order.

Dave

 

[fishmeok]

Hello

The 111 will work just fine, but plan on a LOT of experimentation with thread tension, etc. You can pick up a servo for about $100-130 all day long on e-bay, I highly recommend getting one as soon as possible. You can make do without out the needle down positioner but it is nice to have.

feel free to PM me if you have questions

Thanks
Mark

 

[dmar836]

Appreciate it.
Just became concerned as the place I bought the hide had yet to accept my PP payment. Now their site is down. Called PP and they got ahold of the owner. I called and all is good. Funny, PP said it could not return my money even if the seller never accepts it.
I guess that leaves time to source a zipper.
Dave

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Dave,
Great project.
If you need any help just shout.

 

[dmar836]

Thanks, Platon.

 

[Peter Graham]

Good luck Dave. So many talented people on this forum. Wish I was one of them. Have fun with the project.

 

[asiamiles]

Good luck Dave. So many talented people on this forum. Wish I was one of them.

We all have our own talents. At least, that's what I try telling myself! :lol:

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Hi Dave

Forget the servo, change the pulley size.

Ken

http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2007/11/08 ... tch-motor/

 

[dmar836]

A-2 Project Update

Received the hide and like it. About 3oz and grainy already. I'm not a fan of distressed at all nor pull up but what a pretty piece of leather! I milled it in the dryer for an hour or so and that helped too. Really tempted to use the olive thread for the 27752- that would look great but show my mistakes more!
Against great advice to use a cheap zip when starting out, I couldn't find a reasonable-looking zip cheaper than an original M42. Guess I'll have to stay with the later contracts. Mash got it to me in three days! Still sourcing the proper snaps. That will take some extra work but I've done it before. Starting with obvious shortcuts(line 20 or nickel) would mean I'd always be making excuses. I'll leave room for excuses with the worksmanship! The ball snaps will hold me up but I will start cutting leather and doing what I can!
If anyone has taken on such a task, even with shortcuts, you'll know that the price for a quality repro is not as unreasonable as you might think - the cost is quite high. To put as much time and effort into this is quite time-consuming and frustrating. I do not include myself in the ranks of the pros.
Ken, I geared down the Juki a couple years ago but don't want to go that route on the Singer. I'll do this old-school style. I'll try to take my time as I know a new sewist back then would likely not be set loose on leather. I will likely be doing some vintage aircraft interior work starting this year so newer machines(servo/NPS and double needle) might soon be in order.

P.S. Mash is a class act! My small order revealed a real show of quality and attention to detail. I can recommend them to anyone! This is an example of why the US has a hard time competing any more. Rant over.

 

[Peter Graham]

Mash are top notch. Great products and great service. Pity the UK customs service has pretty much priced them out of the market for me.

 

[dmar836]

I almost expected a charge when I picked the parcel up from the post office(the carrier didn't even bother to knock, left a pickup notice - I was home!).
Here are the epaulets. Did 'em in olive. The Singer isn't being very consistent in stitch length. That's as frustrating as anything as I cannot control it. I might check/tighten it up so the stitch length doesn't slip. I don't think I'll redo the epaulets. There will be bigger issues to come. Perfection will have to come later.
Dave

 

[ausreenactor]

DAMN FINE START!!!

Keep cracking...

Couchy..

 

[dmar836]

Lol. So I screwed up already. I think it's kinda obvious how.
I even said to myself just this evening that my enthusiasm mixed with impatience was gonna be an issue. Didn't realize it would be with my first parts. Humorous really.
This is gonna be fun!
Dave