AAF depot refurb question--A-2 collar hook

[stubbyeighth]

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me how the wartime AAF refurb depots dealt with A-2 collar hooks on jackets with collar stands when they replaced the lining?

It doesn't seem like they would have taken the time to actually remove the hook and replace it with a new one. (Or did they?) If anyone has a depot refurb and can provide an answer and perhaps a photo, I would much appreciate it.

The reason I ask is that, after 15 years, I need the lining replaced on my RW 1401 repro. I'll likely have the work done by a very competent seamstress who can make a lining no problem but who lacks the specialized tools and hardware to replace the hook.

Thanks in advance,

stubbyeighth

 

[Silver Surfer]

when a-2 jacs were sent to the aaf depot for a refurbish the collar hooks were not touched. however, it would seem that some time early in wwll, some a-2s were sent back to the original makers, and these jacs got the full treatment. liners, hooks, knits, etc, when deemed to be needed. also when the jacs were sent to the makers, they were redyed very carefully. sometimes even redyed with a russet dye. the dye that was used for redying, by the makers was of the type used in original production, and not the poly paint used by the aaf depots. the factory refurbs were then processed though the aaf, and like the depot jacs were often stamped with a 1" meatball in the liner. some refurbs had hardware replaced, most did not. want the liner done right? talk to platon at bk.

 

[dmar836]

I think BK could do a grand job BUT wouldn't it be cool to find documented examples and have it done similarly(by your seamstress, BK, whoever). To me the sign of a cool and/or favorite jacket is such individual touches, true time-worn being the rarest and coolest IMO. I would suggest doing it how the AAF depot would had done it even if that means stitching around the hook. Add the meatball, whatever, and continue to wear the heck out of it.
FYI, a liner replacement, particularly around the waist tabs, is a real hassle(work-wise I think I'd rather build a new one!). I hope you choose someone who understands how these were done. Congrats for keeping an A-2 long enough to wear out part of it!
I'll look at my period Perry redye but doubt it will be much obvious help without the stand, etc.
Not directed at Stubby, but it seems that as soon as our repros start to take on the patina of originals we run backwards. Stubby's could turn out to be iconic like that worn out redye returned to JC.
How about some full-jacket shots?
JMO and please keep us informed,
Dave

 

[stubbyeighth]

Gents, thanks for the thoughtful and helpful replies.

Dave--we are on the same page. I want to do a AAF depot-style reline. I know the depots just covered the old collar snap buttons with the new lining. But the collar hook--that puzzles me. That's why I am hoping someone on VLJ might have or have seen a collar stand depot refurb, and ideally can provide a photo.

A new factory-style lining doesn't seem right for this old jacket. It's already a refurb in its own right. The jacket is a late 90s Eastman 1401 bought new from HPA. HPA called the horsehide "Mustang Hide." It's a thick, stodgy, grainy SOB, heavier than most original A-2s. Originally it was caramel colored, but the aniline dye eventually wore and faded until it was practically white in places. JC provided me a dye recipe using Fiebing's that turned the jacket a nice russet, which is presently very mottled, as can be seen in the photos. Knits were replaced a couple of years ago with some purplely-brown MASH ones sourced from Vintage Productions. Nice knits. Sourced the lining material recently from JC. Is it RW orange? Nope. Don't care.

I hadn't thought of a 15-year-old repro as being kind of unique, but I guess it might be. Photos below. Not a stitch-for-stitch repro as can be had now from the top-tier makers. But after 15 years of hard wear--this is my A-2. To me, it looks the business.









Lining is in bad shape around pits and collar.

 

[dmar836]

Looks great! My redye appears to have the original liner so...
Surely we have other originals with period redyes on the forum.
Dave
KC

 

[Anonymous]

My guess would be that the AAF had spare parts of all the items used in the jackets and the means to install them as that would be normally provided in the supply contract.

But since this is an ELC jacket and Gary Eastman is someone with vast knowledge about that, I believe he should be the right guy to answer your question, let alone re-line your jacket.