When I first started looking for an A-2 around nine years ago there were, and still are, a huge number of threads on the proper fit. At this time a custom fitted Good Wear was an option, but he was just starting out and a longer track record was preferred (without doubt, GW's track record since then has been exemplary). Wanting a very slim fit and fastidious about details I purchased one of the recently introduced Eastman Werber 33-1729 contracts, following Gary Eastman's advice on the proper size (42/43" chest => 44" size).
Yes, I did consider a used jacket to start, but looking at measurements posted across the internet there was a significant amount of variation, even among the same contract, and that had me worried. No doubt variations in measurement and manufacture are a factor, but it seemed water treatments to shrink or balloon treatments to enlarge or different conditioning amount/type or whatever changed some dimensions in a jacket but not the whole jacket. In short, you put your money down and take your chances. Wanting to purchase one, and only one, jacket nixed the used path for me though I know many others have had good success.
On arrival, the ELC 33-1729 seemed to have many of the concerns listed in this and many other forums. Yes, the stomach was a bit loose, but my chest is more than 10" larger than my waist so that wasn't much of surprise. The sleeves were a bit long (tunneling) and the horsehide was fairly smooth and a bit stiff. Is this ever going to break-in?
Doubting a 42" would help, since the chest fit like a comfortable glove, I just wore it. The tunneling sleeves disappeared after a few months, as the arms started creasing around the elbow and pulled up (I understand this effect is more pronounced with tapered sleeves). After another year or so the stiffness was gone and I was starting to worry it was weathering too fast (it has since leveled out a bit, as an original A-2). Even the stomach pulled in a bit and my waist hasn't gotten any bigger. And the grain has really come out.
Noticed it didn't need any conditioning for the first eight years, and I live in the desert where single digit humidity levels are common. Think the horsehide stiffness was from the original treatment applied by Eastman that probably contained wax, but not certain. Anyway, it went away and just a small amount of Lexol, once, is all it has even needed since I bought it almost ten years ago. (I go by dryness feel, not time, when conditioning).
In short, after way to much over-thinking just wearing it and enjoying it was all it needed to better conform to my body. Certain about that, since some of the dimensions have clearly changed with use, but not all (the shoulders have stayed the same at 19", but then it fit like a glove to start and still does). I suspect the ideal WWII fit, where they got one jacket and had to wear it was the secret to the WWII fit we're all looking for. Get a good one, wear it and enjoy it ... just saying.
Yes, I did consider a used jacket to start, but looking at measurements posted across the internet there was a significant amount of variation, even among the same contract, and that had me worried. No doubt variations in measurement and manufacture are a factor, but it seemed water treatments to shrink or balloon treatments to enlarge or different conditioning amount/type or whatever changed some dimensions in a jacket but not the whole jacket. In short, you put your money down and take your chances. Wanting to purchase one, and only one, jacket nixed the used path for me though I know many others have had good success.
On arrival, the ELC 33-1729 seemed to have many of the concerns listed in this and many other forums. Yes, the stomach was a bit loose, but my chest is more than 10" larger than my waist so that wasn't much of surprise. The sleeves were a bit long (tunneling) and the horsehide was fairly smooth and a bit stiff. Is this ever going to break-in?
Doubting a 42" would help, since the chest fit like a comfortable glove, I just wore it. The tunneling sleeves disappeared after a few months, as the arms started creasing around the elbow and pulled up (I understand this effect is more pronounced with tapered sleeves). After another year or so the stiffness was gone and I was starting to worry it was weathering too fast (it has since leveled out a bit, as an original A-2). Even the stomach pulled in a bit and my waist hasn't gotten any bigger. And the grain has really come out.
Noticed it didn't need any conditioning for the first eight years, and I live in the desert where single digit humidity levels are common. Think the horsehide stiffness was from the original treatment applied by Eastman that probably contained wax, but not certain. Anyway, it went away and just a small amount of Lexol, once, is all it has even needed since I bought it almost ten years ago. (I go by dryness feel, not time, when conditioning).
In short, after way to much over-thinking just wearing it and enjoying it was all it needed to better conform to my body. Certain about that, since some of the dimensions have clearly changed with use, but not all (the shoulders have stayed the same at 19", but then it fit like a glove to start and still does). I suspect the ideal WWII fit, where they got one jacket and had to wear it was the secret to the WWII fit we're all looking for. Get a good one, wear it and enjoy it ... just saying.
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