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20's English Motorcycle repro

Geeboo

Well-Known Member
How is that ?
original 3Jul17_1.jpg
 

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dmar836

Well-Known Member
Nice job. Curious how that leather will break in. Might be careful with the stitch length. Too narrow and the leather will tear. I have seen this most at the button holes.
I dig the late war dungarees in the last pic!
Dave
 

Geeboo

Well-Known Member
dungaree.jpg
Tks Dave. Not many people in HK vintage wear forum & mainland China vintage wear forum find that dungaree attractive; most, if not all, comments are "cutting too weird" . I think most of the herd still follow the mainstream of slim cut pants - even in vintage wear community in HK & China !! :<
P.S. This is the 1st pattern of WWII USN dungaree with black metal buttons.
 
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dmar836

Well-Known Member
Great pics. Skinny jeans will be the undoing of this planet!
Off topic here and with all due respect there seams to be an awful lot of talk on the web that the slash pocket dungarees(seen with both metal and "plastic" buttons) are the early war contract. I can only assume that is because of a prominent denim blog that has been quoted unto fact. I too quoted that and was corrected privately by an older USN collector and author. I perused my photo collection and began researching NXS numbers and sure enough I can only now say not all single seam side-patch pocket dungarees are pre 44 but I have yet to find a pair of slash pocket dungarees that were. The fiscal contract dates(when tags are found intact) are always '44 or '45. There are also a lot of minty slash pockets out there and not very many of the single seam versions. Should also add that, and this may be another reason for the assumptions, contracts of the 50s returned to the patch pocket version but "not the same" and with a buttoned left back pocket.
I could be wrong but what little I've studied doesn't support the convention. I would be interested on others' take on this.
Dave
 

Geeboo

Well-Known Member
I am not sure if you are referring to this single/ double stitch thing. Enclosed some double stitches dungarees
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. metal buttons - 1st pattern & plastic buttons - 2nd pattern
 

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Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Never liked skinny jeans but I hated those Dungarees when I had to wear them in the USN! Uncomfortable with useless pockets in the front and bell bottoms. Yuck. Those and those dumb Boondocker low top boots. I was thankful when I got my flight deck gear issued. Nice green Chino style pants and tall steel toe boots.
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
Geeboo, none of this rant is directed at you. I have several of those pics in my files as well. Single or double stitching, rounded or mitered back pockets - those are manufacturing variations IMO. I'm referring to the actual spec called out by the US Navy in 1927 and 1941. Many are saying the internal pockets are pre-war and this just isn't supported. We cannot believe online quotes despite how numerous(they are repeated and are now popular but incorrect) UNLESS they are supported with photo history, contract proof, etc. The informed collectors I have read state the patch pockets are actually the earlier version. There were some civi acquisitions for sure and as long as it was close to spec it was allowed but as issued the internal hanging pockets were the later 1944 pattern - not earlier and certainly not pre-war as is so often claimed(Segui-riveted blog and numerous ebay ads). That blog actually shows internal pockets with both metal and plastic buttons(pre-war?) and a pic of Boyington and group after rescue in Aug, 1945. So that's technically post-war now and they are all wearing newly issued dungarees - with internal pockets. So I am to believe at the end of the war rescued POWs were given NOS pre-war dungarees? Anecdotal as that is this is supported by the contract numbers I have found in addition to the specs. A pre-war pair (1927 Specs)would have a single rear pocket, single seams, and a cinch back. At some point the cinch was omitted. Even the 1941 Uniform Regs (still technically pre-war)state "two top pockets and one patch pocket on right hip". So at some point the second rear pocket was added(I assume due to civilian supply availability). I just have not seen anything to support that these internal pockets are earlier than the patch pocket dungarees. Then add that the contract dates found on many of the internal pocket dungarees are all mid-44 or into 1945 (with even later production).
ATF has pics on their site of a minty pair from a 1942 contract - with patch pockets. I have pics of several internal pockets but all with much later contract number dates.
From what I can tell the "pre-war" designation has come more from the denim collector sites/forums rather than USN collector/research information. There really hasn't been any debate about it on collector sites.
Dave
 
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