Every pattern was copied, in the full range of sizes.
It can take anything from a day to a week to construct, test, retry make up test garments, any new pattern from scratch and thats if the person making the first pattern know what they are doing and understand the brief and if the design is new, add on the designer's time. Our Highwayman took me a fortnight to get right before I even thought about grading the patterns
After the first one is approved, usually a in middle size, say 42", these need to be graded in both directions 34-48. By hand, with the skills needed? A week per style
So that two weeks per style including sampling and grading.........20 styles, best part of a years work and that not counting the designing of the product that requires the pattern in the first place.
This can be done by computer but the operater needs both IT skills and a complete understanding of pattern making. Some are very good, some are pretty hopeless, this one only finds out by trying them out. Cost? anything from £300 to £500 per graded pattern, lead time for a good grader? 4 weeks, £10000 maybe for a top quailty operator
Like superfluous pointed out...............having 20 designs ready with full sets of graded patterns..............even of copied designs doesn't happen overnight, nor in a week or a month, maybe a year.
Certainly not straight ot of the box for a new start up